CainMD Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 Hi, i know this may be a little redundant but i just need a clear answer. I have an ibanez which i sanded off the paint and primer down to the wood, then reshaped the body and drilled out the monkey grip. I have the natural finish and am going to burn the edges and parts of the body, then sand it down a little. My question: Is all i have to do is spray clear gloss nitrocellulose lacquer (spray can) sand, buff, and cure or do i have to use something first other than clear coat? And what is the best spray can nitro to use (brand)? Ideally i'm looking for the best one that will give me a sick finish or one that cures alittle faster. Thanks in advance ~chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpcrash Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 Ideally you would pore fill, sand, spray X 12-20, cure, sand, buff. As for brands, since you're in NY - cheap and easy is Deft. Lots of coats, follow the directions closely and you'll have no problems. There will be more posts regarding brands I'm sure - just that I've had success with that one a few times. BTW - for porefilling, I strongly recommend ZPoxy. May have to order it from LMI or somewhere, but works quite well. The secret to this finishes is have a perfectly smooth surface to start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CainMD Posted December 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 (edited) thanks that's pretty much what i figured, i've just heard horror stories of people messing it up so close to being done. I have a side question: should i dye the wood black then sand off? i don't know if it's worth doing on a ibanez rg bodysince the woods nothing special. Otherwise i"m just going to leave it and burn it a little. here's an old pic of when i just took some of the paint off to get a look at the grain. (at work, no pics besides cell phone ones) http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/c...pg?t=1230066282 Edited December 23, 2008 by CainMD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpcrash Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 You could dye it - probably easier than burning. Check some of the tutorials on this site about finishing with nitro. That may sound cliche'd but... there is some valuable info there. I've finished with Rustoleum Painter's Touch Clear (acrylic lacquer), Deft nitro Lacquer, Polyurethane, Spar Urethane, Tung Oil and just recently tried KTM-9 (water-based lacquer). Each one is different and as with all woodworking - nothing happens fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CainMD Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 (edited) I threw on 10 coats so far with miniwax. thank god no bubbling and its pretty clear. Goin to try for 5 more coats, its rough doing this in the winter in a basement with poor ventilation. I'm going to wait a while to sand. Does it really make a difference if i wet sand or just regular sand the clear coat? here's some pics of whats been going on Burn: http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/c...=1231080836.jpg Clear coat: http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/c...nt=IMG_0483.jpg http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/c...nt=IMG_0484.jpg http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/c...nt=IMG_0485.jpg Edited January 5, 2009 by CainMD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 You absolutely want to wet sand. The finer grits clog extremely fast and form corns that will scratch the finish. The lubricant cuts down on the corning and helps remove the sanding residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.