Sustainer Using A Humbucker

[syn]

Hello everyone. Today I would like to talk about using a Humbucker to create a sustainer. The way i see it, you can use the 2 coils of the humbucker as a single coil pickup and a driver. I don't see the other pickup interfering with the driver because it would be wired to when the driver was activated, the signal would be taken directly from the bridge pickup, regardless of the position of the pickup selector. Any advice or input? All is appreciated.

[elmo7sharp9]

I don't see the other pickup interfering with the driver because it would be wired to when the driver was activated, the signal would be taken directly from the bridge pickup, regardless of the position of the pickup selector. Any advice or input? All is appreciated.

You've got enough physical space to wind a driver in this way - no barrier there.

The "pickup" coil of your humbucker will have an induced current from the "driver" coil

that may or may not cause resonance/squealing/fizz effects.

The simple solution is to short out (and, if that is not enough, disconnect the ground wire) from the "pickup" coil

during Sustainer operation.

Incidentally,

Your choice of .010 to .052 strings guarantees that you'll get far more sustain out of the lower strings than you can achieve on the top strings (when compared to a lighter-bottom string set).

For the moment, I've learned to live with this, as these string gauges are vital to the feel, tone and tuning stability of my guitar.

Edited March 10, 2010 by elmo7sharp9

[elmo7sharp9]

I don't see the other pickup interfering with the driver

I've maybe presumed too much ...

You know you'll need to remove the fine pickup wire from the "driver" bobbin and replace it with 100-200 turns of far thicker wire to make a practical driver coil, don't you?

You can't (easily) make a sustainer using a regular pickup coil as-is.

[Prostheta]

Syn - since you have your messenger disabled, I'll point out here that your signature is far too large. Please read the board rules re: signatures. Two lines max, no images or commercial links.

Thanks!

- Carl

ORIGINAL SIGNATURE INFO:

Gear:

Weapons:

Schecter Synyster Custom

Schecter Hellraiser Avenger (mods: custom invader pups, black w/ chrome nuts. Removal of Push/pull coil tap)

Ammo:

Ernie Ball Slinky Top Heavy Bottom .10-.52

Dunlop Gator-Grip 2mm

Amps (yeah couldn't come up with violent reference):

Marshall HDFX MG 100 (solid-state head)

Marshall HDFX MG 250 (2X12 combo)

Pedals:

Boss Metal Zone MT-2

Boss Equalizer GE-7

Boss Distortion DS-1

Boss Noise Suppressor NS-2

Boss Chromatic Tuner (everyone has one of these)

Dunlop Original Crybaby wah pedal

DIY Projects:

JCM 800 Emulator Pedal (x)

Humbucker sustainer ( )

Dual Rectifier Emulator ( )

THE KILLER

I'm only a freshman in high-school

[psw]

Hello everyone. Today I would like to talk about using a Humbucker to create a sustainer. The way i see it, you can use the 2 coils of the humbucker as a single coil pickup and a driver. I don't see the other pickup interfering with the driver because it would be wired to when the driver was activated, the signal would be taken directly from the bridge pickup, regardless of the position of the pickup selector. Any advice or input? All is appreciated.

I think it was Primal that wound a driver on half of a humbucker, the other half made for a low powered single coil as the neck pickup, it was a successful sustainer though...check the original thread on that project perhaps

The idea that near coils will pick up noise and interfere by inductance (like a transformer) is a bit of a misnomer and the solutions a bit wafty. I have always found that any near by coils, all other pickups, neck and say middle on a strat, need to be completely disconnected ground and hot (not just disconnected) from the guitars circuit, not a lot of difference in shorting or keeping the coil circuits open, but any induced noise needs to be kept out of the circuit.

People like Col also made HB like dedicated drivers as well and it would be possible to do similar things with the piggyback thing. I even put a test coil on top of a lowered HB on my LP and it worked as an experiemcnt...but the HB was way to low to be effective as a Pup. You may wish also to consider the magnetic fields of HB, the opposite nearby polarities are attracted to each other and so have less 'throw' and you will need the driver very close to the strings in general.

The idea that strings like 10-52's will lead to over active bass strings is also a bit misleading. Like pickups as well, you simply have to adjust the circuit bias (less bass) or indeed just adjust the driver and or pickup to be less close to the bass strings.

HB's are tricky though to work with, if you were of a mind to rewind pickups, perhaps you could do something, the piggyback idea can kind of work and should be fine with a newer design (I have done something like this with dual wafer coils) but that is going to be tricky and a bit experimental to begin with, but certainly it could work...the pickup under it though may be a fair way away from the strings and not be too effective (single coils generally need to be further from strings to avoid wolf tones and that means there is space there).

The alternative is a small dedicated driver between the pickup and the neck on an HB guitar, well tested and proven...hopefully this won't turn into some big debate about it, but there is plenty on this kind of thing is just interested in the idea in the main thread...

[syn]

Thank you all for your replies. And sorry for the incredibly long signature, forgot to read the rules. So if i made it that when the sustainer was activated, the only signal that was connected was the bridge, would there be any problems? Also i need help with winding the coil and how to ohm it out. All help is apreciated.

[psw]

Well...you are going to do a bit of research and work out exactly how you intend to do this with an HB if you still want an effective neck pickup. The alternative might be to mount a single coil sized HB into half of the space and put a driver along side it.

Read the tutorials and such and see how you go.

No, it is not enough with a neck pickup present to simply "deselect it"...what happens is that the pickup coil gains induced current like a transformer, although not wired to it, it is linked via the magnetic field. I have found that this needs to be tackled carefully with the entire neck pickup disconnected with a bypass switch.

The sustainer is not that hard, but it does draw on quite a few skills to be successful, circuit building, guitar wiring, coil winding, bobbin construction, problem solving...plus a good understanding of some of the issues and principles really. Each installation can have it's own problems or special requirements and in the end the only one who can DIY is that you do it yourself even with all the advice in the world.

Also, the adaption of an HB, and what you are after isn't completely clear to me (do you want to have an effective neck pickup or prepared to loose it? Are you prepared to physically modify the guitar, etc ). And, to an extent a bit of this is experimental...HB's need to be close to the strings as a pickup itself because of the magnetic field shape, at least to some extent, I do know it can work, but exactly how you do this and how far you are prepared to go...and not the least your skills in doing it successfully, is kind of in your court.

It may be that a DIY sustainer is not for you and you might consider a commercial alternative from fernandes or sustainiac

[Hank McSpank]

No, it is not enough with a neck pickup present to simply "deselect it"...what happens is that the pickup coil gains induced current like a transformer, although not wired to it, it is linked via the magnetic field. I have found that this needs to be tackled carefully with the entire neck pickup disconnected with a bypass switch.

Towards removing sustainer myth, legend & mystique, I reckon it's better to offer up a solution once it has been identified..... & Elmo recently offered one up that will work for that very situation - short out the neck pickup while the sustainer driver is selected - job done.

[syn]

so if i understand correctly, i must make it so when the sustainer is activated, the neck pickup is removed from the circuit and the driver's input source is the bridge pickup? and for harmonic mode, switch the positive and negative from the board to the coil? also i still need help with the actual coiling of the driver. again, all input is appreciated

[Hank McSpank]

so if i understand correctly, i must make it so when the sustainer is activated, the neck pickup is removed from the circuit

Yes, but since some are saying that simply breaking the neck pickup 'hot' wire may cause issues(I can't confirm one way or the other wrt this as I've a different setup), you should therefore short the neck hot to ground when the sustainer coil is live.

and the driver's input source is the bridge pickup?

Correct.

and for harmonic mode, switch the positive and negative from the board to the coil? also i still need help with the actual coiling of the driver. again, all input is appreciated

Correct again.

also i still need help with the actual coiling of the driver. again, all input is appreciated

What is it you want to know? There is much made of getting the DC resistance correct, but most audio amplifier ICs are quite forgiving of the DC resistance (within reason!) - what I consider is more important is getting the correct of ampere turns (basically the amount of current through the driver coil multiplied by the number of coil turns), at this early stage I'd simply say don't get too hung up on the winding aspect. Elmo recently did a nice pictorial about winding a driver which will give you a start (there are other tutorials on Project Guitar too)....

http://freespace.virgin.net/e.macdonald/index.htm

To help you establish how may windings to do for your given wire gauge (much is made of 0.2mm being the only wire type that works, but this is not the case - my testing has revealed you can pretty much use anything from 0.17mm - thru 0.4mm, depending on you preferred end DC resistance for the IC you're matching it with), here's a great online bobbin winding calculator...

http://pickups.myonlinesite.com/pickup.php...=ohms&avo=8

So for that particular bobbin size, to get 8 Ohms using 0.24mm wire, you'd need to wind 149 turns.

I'd say for your first bobbin - providing you use a robust output IC (ed the TDA7052), for a 9V supply circuit, shoot for somewhere in the region of 180-200 turns for a coil with a DC resistance of between say 6.5 & 9 Ohms.

(I've filled the fields in to give you an idea, but obviously tweak those fields to bring your own bobbin dimensions & wire gauge into play)

Edited March 12, 2010 by Hank McSpank

[syn]

thank you for the lengthy response, it has helped me expand my knowledge on the subject greatly. but what i need to know is that are the two leads that you ohm. all i know is you wind the wire around the bobbin atleast a hundred times until you reach 8 ohms. I do not know how to ohm, and what i am supposed to do to wind the coil.

[syn]

also i am using the f/r as a "preamp" if thats what you want to call it. it uses the 386

[Hank McSpank]

also i am using the f/r as a "preamp" if thats what you want to call it. it uses the 386

As has been discussed as of late, IMHO that IC is not a great choice, but hey, you gots to use, what you gots to use I guess.

Re measuring the coil resistance. The point of me posting up that bobbin winding calculator in my last post, was so you don't even need to have access to an ohmmeter - enter your bobbin's dimensions, enter your enamelled wire size (it does imperial too), select 8 Ohms - it'll then tell you how many windings you need to wind - so long as you can count as you wind, you're good to go! What I'm also saying is that an ohm either side isn't that significant & not worth fretting about.

[syn]

ok thanks that really helped. I will use that instead. Next thing i need to know is when i wind the driver, i take the beginning of the coil and leave that out a little to use as ground, and then wind it the number of times, glueing it as nessesary, and the taking the last bit and use it as the positive? or am i completely wrong? i am clueless

[syn]

also i am using the f/r as a "preamp" if thats what you want to call it. it uses the 386

As has been discussed as of late, IMHO that IC is not a great choice, but hey, you gots to use, what you gots to use I guess.

Would it be possible to just use another IC without changing the design of the circuit board or any other parts? this would be great because it would not only be less work, but I wouldnt have to design a new pcb as well.

[Samba Pa Ti]

also i am using the f/r as a "preamp" if thats what you want to call it. it uses the 386

As has been discussed as of late, IMHO that IC is not a great choice, but hey, you gots to use, what you gots to use I guess.

Would it be possible to just use another IC without changing the design of the circuit board or any other parts? this would be great because it would not only be less work, but I wouldnt have to design a new pcb as well.

not easily, it depends on the pinout of the ic's you wish to substitute if they are the same (same function from each pin) it would be possible but i doubt they are.

it would be possible to make another board that sat ontop and altered the pinout though, kinda like an adapter, thats a lot of work for not much gain though.

[Hank McSpank]

ok thanks that really helped. I will use that instead. Next thing i need to know is when i wind the driver, i take the beginning of the coil and leave that out a little to use as ground, and then wind it the number of times, glueing it as nessesary, and the taking the last bit and use it as the positive? or am i completely wrong? i am clueless

I wouldn't say that at all...you've grasped the important elements. Re winding the driver - you've got it. Don't get too caught up wrt which lead is ground - as long as you end up with the start wire, and end wire which you can hook up to your circuit...that'll do!

One wiring config from the amp IC to the driver coil will give you (mainly) 'fundamental note' based sustain' - with the wiring reversed you'll get (mainly) 4th harmonics ...it's not possible to say which wire will be which until you put the driver in situ (unless we all start winding drivers the same way...eg clockwise, put our magnets in the same way eg north side up etc, make sure we all have the same circui - inverting/non inverting etc!)

If you've already got a PCB for the FR, I'd say roll with that - you'll get sustain, which as your first attempt will make you chuffed to bits....but then you'll want better.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Hank McSpank

[psw]

There is no mystique about the bypass switching and handling of other pickups, posted way back in 2005 and many times since and alternatives, the above diagram was presented including the full wiring for the entire 'sustainer strat' and is still very much like the switching for my tele of recent times...the only mystique is to say there is yet offer little and clogging things down with...well

I'd strongly suggest to anyone approaching this project to wind a test driver and circuit and hold the driver above the strings to see if they can successfully test the device they have made before modifying a guitar at all, especially where experience is limited or there is experimentation required that makes the results unknown.

Processes such as installation questions can be handled later once you have something that works!

The LM386 debate is pointless, it has shown to work, but any suitable battery powered amplifier will work with a 'front end' (preamp or buffer) that prevents loading of the pickups...The main thread has the mods I have suggested to the F/R to bring it up to the specs I use and give added stability to the circuit for instance. Other circuits have been posted as alternatives but conspicuously some have declined posting anything conclusively alternative (like a circuit diagram) while being the most vocal at spreading the idea that the LM386 can not drive high strings etc...which is clearly not true.

The 0.2mm wire thing is what is recommended by be for my designs after testing many others and to produce consistent results with my design. There are various reasons why this was settled on, but it has show to work.

Otherwise, I'd also point you to the tutorial and pictorial I did on driver winding that shows things like measuring the ohms as winding for instance and constructing a coil, in that case over a pickup, but the principle is the same.

Such questions though, make me wonder if you have enough knowledge and experience to carry off this project successfully...measuring the ohms and such are important very basic things even for wiring a guitar and this project is tricky on many levels and essentially, you have to 'do it yourself' in the end, so you may need to acquire these skills first (perhaps build some stompboxes or something, do some reading, look at the tutorials a few more times) before tackling this thing that is notorious for the tinkering required.

Suggesting that I have not offered solutions in this area for a long time is just further inflammatory material from someone who has offered very little in what he criticisms me for...no switching, no circuits, no tutorials or design details...just lots of thread hijacks and trolling after anything I personally offer on this subject. Clearly this forum is still not ready to openly discuss or help people with this subject that for the past year has been taboo and seen all the information closed or disappeared for the last year...and so the misinformation and trolling continues.

[syn]

i know how to basically ohm everything correctly, except pickups and coils. using the ohm meter is easy. When ever i ohmed out the coil it read unconsistent results, which made me think i was doing something wrong. Im about to try this out using a preamp i already have. if i t works ill be sure to post it.

[psw]

i know how to basically ohm everything correctly, except pickups and coils. using the ohm meter is easy. When ever i ohmed out the coil it read inconsistent results, which made me think i was doing something wrong. Im about to try this out using a preamp i already have. if i t works ill be sure to post it.

OK...well, winding wire is enamel coated to insulate it...so you need to be sure that the ends are stripped and clean so the probes have good contact. Some light wet and dry paper or scraping it carefully with a knife on the ends and making sure no glue gets on it (or the probes for that matter)...these are the usual problems with taking readings directly from coil wires.

Make sure you have your meter calibrated to taking low ohms like 8 ohms, not a level in the thousands for things like pickups also.

Being exact with the resistance of the coil seems to have less influence than you might think, slightly lower (i've had coils work well as low as 7ish) or slightly higher seems to be ok...other factors in construction and the magnetics seem to be more important than this.

A preamp alone wont power the project, you do need a poweramp of some kind designed to drive a speaker, not just condition a signal. If you have built the F/R thing, test this with a speaker and experiment...look to find the suggested mods, but this has been shown to work in a lot of projects over the years and should at least produce some sustain that you can improve on.

Rather than talk hypotheticals with your project, perhaps better would be more details and pictures of your coil and guitar and what you are proposing to do...the topic was about using an HB, so perhaps some details as to how you are doing this would help as so many factors have an influence on performance and you may be entering uncharted waters that few have addressed. I did notice though that there is a pic on the tutorial of my LP with a test SC driver sitting on top of the neck HB...I had to lower the HB so far to fit this, that it was ineffective as a Pup though and was more of a 'proof of concept' experiment with the 'sustainer box' and HB pickups than any kind of installation. I can't recall too many others, but Primal did the LP thing, but I see that the pics now no longer exist on that...but the text is there and in the tutorial.

[Hank McSpank]

...no switching, no circuits, no tutorials or design details...just lots of thread hijacks and trolling after anything I personally offer on this subject.

Mustn't bite, really mustn't bite, oh dammit....

what I view a bringing hard cold facts to the forum you view as trolling? The only conclusion I can draw is that you're very keen to perpetuate the "one eyed man being king in the valley of the blind" stance.

You've got everyone blocking off their bobbins to make a 3mm driver - it's just not necessary (& adds that little bit of extra heartache to a lot who struggle with getting a bobbin together)

you've got everyone thinking that 0.2mm is the only gauge works - well, not on my test bench it isn't!

you call your driver thin & efficient....but you have no way of backing up 'efficient'. (& as a techie, I wince whenever I see you write it - I'm sure others do)

You say your driver doesn't need phase correction - well, unless you've re-written the rules for phase vs frequency (or play a one note guitar?), that's total bunkum (& just reveals a lack of grasp on the basics)

You've got folks across the globe making DIY sustainers to your subjective thoughts/hunches! (& not even so much as a scope in sight - I'm not wanting to come across as test equipt elitist, but you go to war, you need tanks, you go to the moon you need a rocket, to glean hard cold facts about sustainers you need more than an ohmeter and a hunch or two)

Re circuits - ahem, hello you never actually published your own end finished circuit ....I smell a rat. I'm still active wrt sustainer & have circuits in spades...but they're all on breadboard (why stop to Eagle them up until I've finished all the tangents I head off on). Yep, I'm still active, whereas you prefer to frequent a forum for guitar building to talk (at length) about your personal affairs....(we use pubs over here for that type of stuff - they work surprisingly well).

You recommend the Fetzer Ruby - I (& others) say the LM386 is sub par (I have outlined what I think is better (though still basic) - a tilman pre into a TDA7052A...but hey, at least I was clear, when I said it - ie it'll still perform relatively poor on the two open strings - I wouldn't want to mislead folks)

There are driver winding tutorials aplenty on the net now - I've nothing to add (my issues aren't with the tutorials, but the bold erroneous technical claims)...furthermore, any such tutorial would likely just dishearten folks. I took time out to make a CNC machine and a CNC winder to help me with this project - for example this bit of acrylic was nothing more than a bit of rectangular block of acrylic until 2 hours ago....

(I've resurrected my Variax project - a PCB is going on the other edge of that bobbin tomorrow)

what would be the point of me showing how it was done to a beginner? (I'd have to an associated tutorial on CAD, CAM, GCode, CNC operation (Mach3), coil winding...and so on. Most folks starting out on this, have access to a junior hacksaw and some empty jewel cases...so I don't think my tutorial would be relevant?

I've offered up heaps of advice on here (alas a lot of it conflicts with your own) - I even did my own bit to hold the 'sustainer' fort when you went off in a huff for 8 months...so don't confuse others helping newcomers with advice that may confilct your own as simply 'trolling'....if anyone is trolling to get a rise, they're not in the northern hemisphere

I can see how we ended up at loggerheads ...not only did you patronize me way back (& believe me, you picked the wrong blunt gruff northern English bloke to patronize), but the cycle is starting all over again - first with Elmo' the other week - and now here with syn. He seems to have grasped very quickly all that he needs to push on and make his first DIY Sustainer, but you're all but belittling him before he's even out the starting block!

Edited March 13, 2010 by Hank McSpank

[syn]

so does this mean that as long as the coil has 8 ohm resistance and the preamp can power a speaker i can make a sustainer? the coil doesnt have to be in a small space?

[psw]

Sorry hank/Rob...a lot of lies and mis representation...

You could hardly be seen to 'hold the sustainer fort'...you largely destroyed it!

I have never ever endorsed the fetzer ruby, and you know this for a fact...the fact has always been that I have never actually built that design, nor endorsed it but submitted modifications to make it very similar to the kinds of generic circuits I have used since the beginning, even publishing them as well! Plenty of people have built it to show that it can work as well.

I designed my own circuits that are not hack jobs from tllman or RoG or data sheets, I did try a lot of alternative circuits with satisfying results, but I did find that some chips could not handle the requirements, overheated and closed down in pretty short order...I sense that perhaps you found the same ideas, but even then...not a lot different from the F/R solution...but not actually posted it anywhere!

My 'end finished circuit'...hmmm, you see the problem, I never claimed there to be a 'magic circuit' or a holy grail as you did. But then, you now seem content with the most basic design posible cribbed off of others while lauding your experience and expertise in such matters, particularly over me. I have given plenty of info as well as the direction I have been going in and explained that side of things enough. For anyone with the savvy, I have given and posted plenty to work out exactly what I have been doing and still currently use.

All that matters is that it 'works' and so too can the F/R designs evidently or pactically any other to some degree. Your problems with string response are yours and not replicated in my designs...but that is for you to solve surely you wouldn't want my advice or take it?

Efficiency I base on practical experience and testing side by side as you know. Yes, other wire gauges work, they may need more clean power to run, they may have different resonance characteristics...all I claimed is for my designs, for me, that these things appeared to be the case and independent testing and experimentation by many others over years backed up this real world observations...on my design ideas!

I did not set out to get anyone around the globe to make sustainers, but to provide a place for discussion that you in large part you Rob caused to close and continue to make hostile. I provided actual design notes on my work, even a lot of the failures and helped many others to achieve their goals learning all the time. Someone like you would criticize any circuit I put forward as not 'good enough' even if it does work or that my coil and installation ideas are not mine and of course, no basis in 'science' where in fact I did trial and error side by side comparisons, real world experimentation with my ideas and put them up for peer review...and they have passed the test of some time.

...

On the Internet, a troll is a person who posts messages that create controversy or an angry response without adding content to the discussion, often intentionally, merely as a ludibrium. Though technically different from flaming, which is an unmistakable direct personal attack, trolls often resort to innuendo or misdirection in the pursuit of their objective, which is to create controversy for its own sake, discredit those with whom they disagree, or sabotage discussion by creating an intimidating atmosphere.

Originally this term applied to people who were intentionally posting flamebait, by analogy with the fishing technique of trolling: metaphorically, these people were dragging a conversational lure through the group, hoping for a response. The concept of "this person is trolling our newsgroup" became shortened to "this person is a troll", and picked up the association of the monster trolls of folklore. Note that this is a highly subjective term, as everyone is affected differently by the nature of the term deemed a "troll".

Trolling does not maintain its earlier meaning of posting messages specifically in order to elicit a particular response, usually anger or argument. The most common form, troll, usually refers to someone who induces general controversy, not necessarily a particular response.

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Yep, I'm still active, whereas you prefer to frequent a forum for guitar building to talk (at length) about your personal affairs....(we use pubs over here for that type of stuff - they work surprisingly well).

My personal affairs are my own and your opinion on who and what I share have no place at all. In fact, many of us here do much the same, but I have contributed a whole heap over many years...what it does indicate is that you continue to troll my posts for some obsessional and destructive reason...hence you are a troll!

This forum actually encourages this community and there is a place to share such things...that is where I post them and you don't have top read them...but you do of course! And then post about them in your own little attacks on me! That is trolling!

Since you seem to be following my personal life so closely, you would know that I made a significant move to a remote island at the bottom of the world...hmmm...and during these times of "huff" all of my threads were being closed by you and even removed from view and anything I said elicited exactly the same kind of unhelpful information and mis-information and personal abuse that made my posting pointless and contentious and damaging to everyone and the forum as a whole...and in no way helpful to the person asking the question, often times specifically about my own work!

Your knowledge of what I am 'active in' is Nil in fact. The reality is I was working a long way ahead of what I was posting and for some time left my experimentation out of it and offer feedback to other peoples problems or concerns.

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I don't know what the point of most of your now deleted posts about CNCing and the necessity for winders and such technology, but you consistently did so and now deleted or had deleted these very posts you now suggest are pointless. In fact, there was never any need for a CNC machine or winding machine for a few hundred turns of fairly thick wire for this project...that is your obsession, no one elses! Now you seem to be suggesting that people can't build sustainers without a scope and the degree to understand them...but in reality, we have not seen anything really from you that has been helpful and what you now offer are thin drivers with basic circuits just as has always been prescribed as the starting off point...and suddenly you are an 'expert' giving false advice.

Otherwise, besides criticizing my work, where exactly are the details of your own that could help a young person achieve the goals as expressed in this thread or any other that you hijack instead of starting your own?

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No one can get my advice or opinion on my work without this kind of hail of further personal abuse towards me from you, yet I approached this question much as I had in the past prior to your being anywhere near this forum and I presume project (at least from your now deleted posts would indicate). I also have a huge collect of how to information, actual wiring diagrams of real guitars and many many replications of my work as well as professional builders having installed my devices with success. That is surely enough to warrant some acknowledgment of the veracity of my work.

I have never mislead anyone as you imply, i get a good even response on all the strings, high string response if fine and even polyphonic response is good to excellent depending on the guitar combination...I tested this against the sustainiac product for instance where the owner of that guitar indicated he preferred the response I was getting. Reading between the lines, I suspect there may be some problems with overload shut down on some of your proposals not fully disclosed or discussed that I alerted to in trying such chip amps well before you turned up. There is no deception or misleading and the results are in audio and independently verified over and over again!

It has also been claimed that many of my ideas are 'all in the patents', though I have read them and found nothing like what I have proposed and built over they years. What I have seen are remarkable copies being touted as somehow different in design and application and then being offered for proposed sale by you without even testing them!

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In addition to my work on sustainers I have made guitars here, almost won a GOTM for the last one and contributed to other areas, but anything I might offer here has been pursued by you and handled badly. I ahve spent most of my time contributing elsewhere on a variety of subjects in much depth to avoid you Rob and your insistence on following me about and attacking my personal life!

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Technical claims...I claim that I have success with a range of designs and applications...I have outlined how these, published these and my failures in real time, supported people in replicating and proving them, posted sound clips of them working and offered more.

Claims by you such as it is impossible that it work for the high strings are completely dismissed by the evidence, this apparently is true for your attempts. Others have chimed in also latching on my desire to improve things or others problems that I have tried to help with as if there are fatal problems, this is just wrong and myth. In fact, the idea that nearby coils need to be completely disconnected from the circuit of the guitar was lambasted by you, now you are suggesting that another has "the answer', the same answer I posted with diagrams to actually achieve it from the first installation of the thing!

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You can try whatever design you choose, I speak only for my own designs, formula and experience as to what works effectively for me (and by others who have done the same). I have always encouraged people to go their own way with things, I certainly did, but time and again I came back to and refined my ideas that were successful. Obviously my ideas are not the be all and end all or only way these things can work, they are my way of working things...thin coils (yours are looking ever more like mine, even down to the LEDs of course) and what I can help with. If people want to make their own, instead of asking hypothetical questions about them, I suggest they simply knuckle down and build a few test things and see how they perform.

I have no obligation to anyone in relation to any of this, it is not my 'job' to prove or make for people designs or proofs of concept, there is plenty of info out there, but you can easily just do it yourself which I thought was the whole point. Of course, it is easier to DIY if you have a set of tutorials and proven working ideas, and that is one aspect that I set out to address. On the same token as Rob has put for not showing anything of detail....my more recent circuit designs used components and layouts not easily replicated by beginners (SMD devices for instance) but I stand by the simple circuits work and the suggested modifications that will get the same results as me if built to those specs.

No detail is given in these other places...any wire, any thickness...nothing makes much difference...all the changing tunes as time goes on....follow the advice you choose OP...do anything (and refer to me obliquely), but there is plenty posted as to how badly wrong people can go with this project and not get good results as there have been people who have had success and published proven working approaches...I have shown many, and more than enough!

Syn, it sounds like you need to do a lot of reading and experimentation...and if Rob here is to be believed, can't be done without winders and CNC and scopes and a degree in electronics...

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[syn]

not gunna lie, u guys are just trolling against eachother. mind taking this to the private messages?

[psw]

not gunna lie, u guys are just trolling against each other. mind taking this to the private messages?

Well...I won't tolerate these kinds of personal attacks upon me, my private life or hijacking threads that I contribute to with this kind of thing.

I sincerely tried to point you in the right direction, if by this post you feel I have not done so, well...lets see...you asked...

Hello everyone. Today I would like to talk about using a Humbucker to create a sustainer. The way i see it, you can use the 2 coils of the humbucker as a single coil pickup and a driver. I don't see the other pickup interfering with the driver because it would be wired to when the driver was activated, the signal would be taken directly from the bridge pickup, regardless of the position of the pickup selector. Any advice or input? All is appreciated.

I replied suggesting that you refer to the work done on exactly this, successfully with the F/R as is as i recall...primal...

I think it was Primal that wound a driver on half of a humbucker, the other half made for a low powered single coil as the neck pickup, it was a successful sustainer though...check the original thread on that project perhaps

ah yes...from the tutorial primal says...

This picture shows the labotomized neck pickup that I used as my driver. The driver was wound around the grey bobbin, while the other coil I left untouched. At the moment, the coil is not hooked up to the output, because the volume is too low to be of use when compared to the bridge pickup. I used small pieces of wood to shim the coil so that it ended up somewhere between 4-5mm thick.

If you looked at the tutorial...that I assume you have to get the circuit details...Link to tutorial pg3...you will see that Primal himself posted these things into the tutorial...

So, when I suggested you consider his results, I was sincerely trying to point you into the appropriate direction...there was no attempt to elicit personal abuse...are you seriously suggesting that I replied to your thread with the intention of being personally attacked...or that I should not defend the information (for your benefit I should add) and myself from such attacks...or report that this situation exists that PG can not host any sustainer topic or thread without further abuse no matter what I attempt to impart.

I did want to clarify or even agree with elmo's shorting and disconnection of nearby coils that could pick up induced noise...I indicated that is what I have done and where you could find these details...in the face of suggestions I was not giving the details enough, I even found the 2005 diagram showing exactly how you could wire such a switch...seems like a lot of help to me...

But...I can only work with what is revealed and there is little to gain as to what is most appropriate above what has already been presented in this forum and I have pointed to.

I regret that no topic on sustainers can be answered without these kinds of abusive posts towards me personally, you may not be aware of recent history, but I will not tolerate this, I do not seek it, I honestly and sincerely tried to point you in the right direction...go your own way then...but I can assure you that I did not answer your topic with the intention of again being personally attacked, but one of the few or only people presently here that have done this kind of thing...look further in the tutorial and you will see my own LP HB sustainer experiments as well...

If this has not been helpful to you, I don't quite know what you are after...but if you are weighing in and suggesting that I intentionally replied to your post to attract comments about my personal life or lies about my work...you are very, very wrong!~

So, thanks for calling me a troll for trying to help you...nice one...