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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. Most of the work I do with my time these days is to do with the house. I could do with building panels and a breakfast bar for the balcony....
  2. Gah, ballache time. I was testing the new 0,5mm cutters for fret slotting and dropped a bollock on the nut slot. My DXF import from Rhino to WoodWOP for the Homag baked in discrete values for the fret slot depths with respect to the Z base. Cue me copypasta'ing a variable name into the "depth" for each fret slot, click-paste-doubleclick-click-paste with mouse moves between operations. Accidentally caught my nose on the finishing line by pasting the variable name into "distance offset" instead of depth for the slot either side of the nut. Cue the CNC driving a slot 22mm out from the nut in the
  3. Sure thing. PM me here for my email. The 80s circuit in the SB-1000 (passive/active) is problematic in that it requires dual value pots which are not really available commercially. I've always preferred the 70s active-only circuit. To my ears it sounds better, even though the only real difference is in the varitone filter.
  4. Nothing as vexating as other people. So what's the thing occupying your building urge right now? Surely your bijou clutchette is pretty complete. What happened to The Wookiee? I forget....
  5. Very clean. No burning, chipping or in fact anything that suggests a manual router! This has all the makings of a sweet project.
  6. No gloss for me. This is going full relic, however it needs to survive for a while as a VH1 Frankie!
  7. The current advisory is to wear safety glasses (eye masks) until further notice.
  8. Sapele and Tru-Oil are a natural combination. I also brazed the brass light extension bars with cross-members, and will add a final centre vertical piece to link the cross-members. Sockets are loose, so a little wonky. There's still a few details to finish at the top, specifically an electrical cover and cable inlet hence why this part is still pretty rough. It doesn't need to be pretty, just functional. The central part of the box was made from the sapwood side of the Sapele boards since it'll never be seen. Unfortunately, sapwood is also pretty fracture-prone and I usually
  9. This is a bit of a rare one in the G&G canon, even though a few commercial repro makers have it in their repertoire. Essentially a Mahogany lantern style light which will be going into our kitchen over the dining table. Photos of the original: I always try and start from the original piece rather than getting quick answers from the repros, otherwise mistakes end up being copied into the copy. Dimensions were altered for our end use and a few key changes based on working methods. Quick Rhino render of the full assembly. Then an artsy
  10. Very very cool. Sam Maloof was a genius and a natural. Seeing his work on the bandsaw showed just how in touch he was with the tools and the materials. One of a kind. Exceptionally clean mortise work; are you using a CNC?
  11. Good news, then! Well, I'm surprised that the CDC are recommending that vaccinated people can go without masks in public....that's strange, and sounds somewhat politicised. Over here vaccinated people are still advised to wear masks since you can still be contagious regardless of vaccination status. Unsure what their methodology was behind that, especially since people can't tell who has and has not been vaccinated. I avoid non-maskers out of caution until the waters are clear again. Be careful!
  12. Well hello. Fancy seeing you here. Whilst we're in one place, let's have a minor update. This is straight off the CNC. Truss rod and fillet glued. DNA added to the headstock after I cut my knuckle along one of the sharp edges. Not the usual DNA (denatured alcohol) but the real stuff this time. I've attached the DXF file I've been using to work from. It might be a little different to what I sent into the wood thanks to tweaking here and there at the CNC console. Essentially this is the flat 2D information. The yellow border defines the workpiece extents, purple lines for
  13. Hey man. How're you doing?
  14. That would be an impressive skill to be around. These are truly unique people.
  15. You mean all, "I thought you said this thing was fast/Watch your mouth kid, or you'll find yourself floating home"?
  16. Now there's a task, Drak....asking Scott if he plans anything! It's pretty much well-known that he and I are polar opposites in that department, Scott would get us to Mars within the week using whatever he could pour out of the garage. I would develop a working drawing and meticulous risk assessment after a good six months of farting around.
  17. I think the Mac n' Cheese under reactor 4 in Chernobyl is twitching as well.
  18. I prefer hook and loop myself. How does this help with dust collection?
  19. DC is convenient, and I'm sure that the brushless aspect provides advantages. The wall provides more grunt than a battery pack though.
  20. I've not tried one yet, however I have access to the battery version of the Makita RP0700 at work. I've just not used it since the weight of the battery at the top is the most immediate cause for concern. Those small base routers are tippy as it stands, never mind with a huge 5,0Ah battery bolted on top! I can't compared the brushed 240V version to the brushless 18V version really, however I'd be wanting to know the "apparent HP" (this can be meaningless if you think about it) of the motor. They're trimmers when it comes down to it, so being able to work hardwood at any level is more of a frin
  21. I prefer to use acrylic/Plexi which is better in thicknesses of the order 6mm-10mm for sub-bases. 3-4mm as per the plates that bolt to the underside of metal castings isn't enough when you have overhangs. The few mm lost due to base thickness is worth it for the assurance of safer and more controllable work though. The two I use the most are an offset base and wider 300mm base with the router in the middle. That works double duty for thicknessing thin plates.
  22. I had both of those routers! The one thing I dislike the most about plunge routers is the high centre of gravity, and that POF1200 was pretty tippy at best. I'd recommend making a sub-base for it, even if that reduces the overall cutting depth. The POF400 was useful for small things like pickup cavities and neck pockets, but has a tiny base that makes it terrible unstable also. Sub-bases are the way to go for stability. and keeping their depth stops in good working condition is a must. FWIW, the best upgrade to that POF400 would be a palm router like a Bosch Colt, Makita RP0900 or DeWalt
  23. A grip of death is often applying force in the wrong direction, which reduces finer motor control (literally) where its required. If your router has opportunity to bite more than you can control, you're pretty much in freehand territory where anything and everything can go wrong. I've thought about how best to describe the muscle memory and thought processes of using a router for various tasks, and I keep coming back to "you need to get the experience to learn it" which isn't ideal. Sort of like saying that winning at Russian roulette is to keep pulling the trigger until you're good at it.
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