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Double cut dream.


jowilmei

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I am just starting a les paul double cut inspired guitar. It should be noted that the shape is basically the only inspiration, past that it should be a wild ride. I plan on a single pickup set neck with 24 frets. Hopefully it will turn out the way I imagine. I'll be trying some new techniques so I thank you in advance for any help or advice. 

 

Here are the templates I made so far. I still need to figure out the control cavity template.

The headstock is only a short 4.5 inches, so I'm hoping that means my break angle can be as small as possible because I do not plan on a scarf joint. Rather a graphite reinforcement and generous volute. 

 

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7 hours ago, jowilmei said:

a les paul double cut inspired guitar. It should be noted that the shape is basically the only inspiration, past that it should be a wild ride.

Ooh do I love that attitude!

7 hours ago, jowilmei said:

The headstock is only a short 4.5 inches, so I'm hoping that means my break angle can be as small as possible

I had to measure my headstocks to visualize the length. It doesn't seem to have issues. Mine are longer but looking closer I noticed that a) on my factory built Applause Strat the low E tuner is only 1" from the nut while on the Fender AmStd it's 1½". Another thing I noticed is that the tuners in Fender style guitars are only 1" apart while on the ones I've built using the PRS drawings (plus my acoustic) use a 1½" distance. So there's quite a lot of variation in the designs in "official" builds as well.  

I wouldn't worry about the headstock angle. On my builds it has been determined by the thickness of the blank instead of some optimal numbers. Some 10 deg is plenty steep enough. Also remember that you can increase the angle by using a thicker fretboard.

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9 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

I wouldn't worry about the headstock angle. On my builds it has been determined by the thickness of the blank instead of some optimal numbers. Some 10 deg is plenty steep enough. Also remember that you can increase the angle by using a thicker fretboard.

That's good to know. The Red Special is usually what I refer back to when thinking about industry "standards". That guitar basically threw them all away and has been functional for 50 years or so

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9 hours ago, jowilmei said:

It was difficult to get the negative filed out. It's not perfect, but I think it looks alright.

Looking good. I prefer to do the negative part first as it is easier to file the positive one to match. Or in some some similar situations (not guitar related) I have made a negative and used it as mold to make a positive cast.   

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2 hours ago, henrim said:

Looking good. I prefer to do the negative part first as it is easier to file the positive one to match. Or in some some similar situations (not guitar related) I have made a negative and used it as mold to make a positive cast.   

I thought about pouring a wax mold and then using that as a template, a sort of cheap and forgiving molding venture. Not sure if that would hold up tp a router bearing. 

 

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17 minutes ago, jowilmei said:

I thought about pouring a wax mold and then using that as a template, a sort of cheap and forgiving molding venture. Not sure if that would hold up tp a router bearing. 

 

Maybe some hard wax would do. Although they have pretty low melting point and the router bit may get hot. Epoxy would be good but not worth the hassle if the template is only used for one guitar. And then if it's used for multiple guitars I would probably have it done on CNC. But so far for me every guitar has had a different template so I have just done the templates by hand. The good thing is a template bit with bearing is not picky on small dents and deviations.  

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Phew...

Truss rods are my least favorite thing about guitar building. A close second is neck pocket routing. 

Neck is starting to feel rather light. I hope this Spanish cedar works out okay. I've seen acoustic builders use it before, so I'm hoping it holds up over the years.

What is the best way to glue in carbon reinforcement?

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Had a day off and decided to try again with the neck blank. I think my previous piece was just a bad example. The wood felt like Paulownia and I could scratch it easily with a fingernail. I bought another piece that has much tighter grain is feels significantly stronger and harder. Unfortunately there was some tear, so I conconted a laminate headstock to solve the issue.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have got the headstock angle cut in. Calculations led me to about an 8° angle (ignore the writing on the paper) 

This was my first real task with a hand plane and I cannot imagine how I went this long without the satisfying "phwip" of the blade.

The headstock will have an 1/8" richlite laminate glued on top. Partially for strength and partially for looks.IMG_20221020_203912_4.thumb.jpg.983148240b16301cca4c4e3e96ad752f.jpg

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On 10/26/2022 at 8:26 AM, Akula said:

Nice jig. I guess you just ride the plane down over the MDF spacer and keep going until you hit the desired angle? I'd love a walkthrough of how that setup works.

 

 - Jam

You’ve basically got the idea already. I did some math to figure out the angle I wanted and determined where the mdf needs to be relative to the break angle in order for the plane to rest on it and the very tip of the headstock when the desired angle is achieved.

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  • 1 month later...

Alright, so after losing and subsequently gaining inspiration, I’ve started over on the neck.

I’ve decided to use cherry as it gives me the warm and fuzzies in terms of stability and overall look of the instrument.

I bought about 14 board feet of cherry and it’s been a dream to work with. I’ll keep the old neck for future projects.

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