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Bizman62 last won the day on July 22

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About Bizman62

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  • Birthday May 29

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    Joensuu, North Karelia
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    Removing sawdust to reveal a guitar-ish item.

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  1. There's also light steel strings. "silk'n'steel" if memory serves me right. I highly recommend viewing a bunch of Jerry Rosa's guitar fixing videos. They're lengthy but contain lots of solid information. What I specifically like about them is that he's not the ADHD guy bouncing back and forth doing all fancy video tricks. Understood. That said, the inside block and 2x2's tied with bungee cord and adjusted with wedges is a right way to do it. It's not how the professionals would do it but buying all the equipment for one time use when the result still remains unsure may not be econ
  2. If it wasn't you who cut and ripped the spruce layer off from under the bridge I'm tempted to agree. There's many ways to clamp the bridge, you don't necessarily need the dedicated long reach clamps through the sound hole! The easiest solution is to put a snugly fitting block inside the guitar and clamp from the outside. Even there you can use a couple of 2x2's across the top and bottom and tie them with a bungee cord, using small wedges for tightening the bridge against the top. The action being high may be due to a common problem with acoustic guitars: The strings pull the bridge a
  3. To find out what you have under the bridge is to look somewhere where the wood has been cut, in this case it's the peg holes. Take a torch and a magnifying glass and look all around the hole. If you see uniform layers all the way down all around the hole, it's plywood. If you see end grain at opposite sides of the hole, there's solid wood. If you see upright stripes all the way down, they're vertical growth rings which means it's quarter sawn solid wood. If you need to, roll a piece of sandpaper and try to smoothen the hole just to clean any furry stuff. You don't want to enlarge the pin
  4. Yepp, that looks like plywood. What's not so nice is that the top layer should be there for strength - no matter how thin the top layer is, adjacent long fibers going length vise under the bridge can resist the string pull much more than traverse grain. I've got a classical guitar with a similar problem, the top layer has been removed at some point to clean the surface for gluing and the two layers left are so soft I can poke my finger through! Luckily steel string acoustics often have a piece of hardwood called the bridge plate supporting the pins so if there's none you should "easily" b
  5. OUch! I forgot about that! If the mods now kick me out of this community it's your fault! On the bright side, those joggers are much more family friendly than the long sleeved briefs that first popped up!
  6. I must say I actually liked the arrows, they added some lightheartedness to the build. For some reason it made me think about old ocean liner posters. Then again I can fully understand you may have reasons for your guitar not to look like the Lounge Guitar of the Love Boat!
  7. My fault, I somehow mixed the "total wood thickness" with "top thickness" and kept repeating that. That said, a 1 cm top can easily be installed like shown in my last illustration, there'll be no weak spot. Heck, I'll draw it! Anyhow, as you say the distance from the highest point on the top will be 7.5 cm apart from the lowest point at the horn, there's quite big a contour. Are you planning on bending the top over a carved bottom or just carve the shape? Both are valid options, it's more about the looks and simplicity to build. Same for the lower bout between the bridge and st
  8. That's a wise decision! Why take the risk when it's not actually broken.
  9. The 1" thick top. The neck through will be carved into the body, under the top. Of course one could cut a step for the top but the structural integrity would severely suffer.
  10. Without the arrow I wouldn't have noticed it on the picture. It looks so similar to the stripes on the neck! So if that really starts to bug you, "simply" take an alignable saw or router and open the seam, then glue in a purple veneer. The tool of my choice would be a circular saw with a fret slot cutting blade as that would easily be guided along a fence. A Dremel router with a 0.5 mm bit might also work.
  11. For what I understand the biggest issue will be the neck break angle in the neck-thru. Let me explain: the top will be 2.5 (1") thick and cover the neck-thru, a notch will be made into the bottom wood only that means that the bridge will be about 3 - 3.5 cm (1 - 1½") higher than the fretboard as the top of the neck will be glued to the bottom of the top. as the distance from neck joint to bridge is about 25 - 30 cm (10 - 12") the angle would be about 4.7 - 5.7 degrees. It's in the ballpark compared with e.g. Les Paul a ~5 degrees neck angle would require quite wide a bl
  12. That's what I meant by "laminating the carbon fibre backplate to shape". Do you mean like a cup, the top acting as a lid? If so, our thoughts follow similar paths - again.
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