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Bizman62

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Bizman62 last won the day on March 10

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About Bizman62

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    My builds can be found through my profile under "About Me"

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    Location: Joensuu, North Karelia
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    Removing sawdust to reveal a guitar-ish item

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  1. Heating the sauna is always a good "Plan B".
  2. The final stages take forever! The nut was way too high so I filed the slots and did the 3rd fret pressing procedure to check the action. So of course the grooves unexpectedly became too deep and started grabbing. Guess which version of the files worked better! You guessed it, the €20 Temu set has the looks but the feeler gauge was both faster and smoother. Reshaping the nut was next on the list. Started with a file but in all honesty the sanding block with some 80 grit worked much faster. For the record the nut popped out during the slot filing process and knocked a chip off where there was the tiny drop of super glue. Despite having been sold as bone the chip that broke off didn't look 'organic' so I suppose it's bone dust and epoxy. Still much better than a hollow piece of plastic! And finally I spot leveled the ends of a couple frets. They were too easy to find, playing chromatically two adjacent frets produced the same note. Not a major issue, they were on the dusty side and only affected one string. Used the grooved cheap crowning file and finished with the nail buffing sponge. The action is now low without buzzing although the fret rocker clicks here and there, again in spots that only affect one string. Flying by the seat of my pants can cause unpredictable issues: Originally I was going to use a hardtail but then a fellow told that he has some trapezes from guitars he had modified which led me to make the scrapwood bridge. The height is right for a good angle but the string angle is too much on the shallow side for my liking. Most likely because of that the sound is metallic like a tin can and lacks the low end. Removing the neck and re-routing the neck pocket to an angle and adding height to the bridge would be the ultimate fix but I'd rather try something else. When discussing the matter with Veijo he first suggested screwing the trapeze down against the body but that would make changing strings a bit clumsy. Then he suggested reseating the end plate, even carving the top a bit. That might work, worth giving it a try next Saturday.
  3. For a moment I thought you really shouldn’t go that route but, I realized you must mean Illustrator and not the AI that gets a lot of press these days Whew, thanks for that clarification!
  4. That may turn out to be a happy accident. That said, also bear in mind that although the epoxy filler will not blend with any dye, optical rules still apply. Not only for the filler, also for the wood itself. Wood is basically brown, from light beige to almost black. And how do you get brown? It's red and yellow with some blue. You rarely see plain blue in nature, so red and green might be easier to figure - summer leaves and autumn leaves. Now when you add dye to that natural mix, the lighter grain may surprise you by adding yellow to the mix, dulling the purple. But it depends, there may be enough red to keep the result more majestic. Similarly the blue epoxy can enhance the royal feel. I found this little online tool very handy for guessing what the end result might be with different proportions: https://trycolors.com/mixer. Start by mixing the purple you're going to use, then add some yellow or green for the "wood effect". You can increase the proportions by clicking the colour dots and reduce them by clicking the minus sign below them. Using scrap pieces is even better, hopefully you've used the filler on them as well.
  5. Your build quality is as tidy as your workbench area! And using the hammered look Rust-oleum on masonite and plywood was clever as it "hides surface imperfections". Getting those materials flawless would require a ton of fillers and primers which might crack due to moisture changing the proportions of the masonite. I've sometimes toyed with the idea of building a Dano style guitar, they have a certain vibe. Almost ghetto,,,
  6. Speaking about midges, Google seems to want to translate the most relevant article, in this case Wikipedia: The first 'midge' was translated to a word that Google can't find and I've never heard. 'Fly' in the same first sentence was translated to a shape that is used in conjunction with another noun, roughly 'fly related' like in flypaper. Nematoceran was translated as 'shuttle-sausageous', again a word Google doesn't know elsewhere. 'Midges' in the second sentence wasn't translated at all, it read 'midges'. Finally, in the third sentence 'midges' was translated - drrrrrrum rrrrrrollll - 'midgets'!
  7. Isn't it funny how you don't see a single insect until you've spread the lacquer? The solvents seemingly evaporate fumes that resemble some feromones or food. Mayflies are fun, apart from feet they also have three long tail projections. Some butterflies, possibly of the Pyraloidea superfamily, also seem to like the smell of thinners. Add a pair of brownish wings to the finish... My father once painted a swing for us kids, beautiful light blue with Mayflies and moths.
  8. Hi and welcome! That sounds just like what I was experiencing with my first P90 build: Lots of hum that didn't go away when touching the strings. The fix was easy after I found the flaw: The jack wires were mixed, hot went to the sleeve and ground to the tip. As you're using solderless controls it might also be that the pickup wires are the wrong way around. By the pictures it looks like the plugs can be put in both ways.
  9. Well... actually not so much but even that little seems to be too much for the Chinese Ebay vendors! For what I've learned there's just one essential thing: The 12th fret has to be right in the middle of the scale length. No matter how many frets you have or what the scale length is, that rule can't be omitted. When building from scratch it may be easier, with prerouted/-drilled parts from here and there you'll never know.
  10. One reason for that is that the dust wanders deep into the wool instead of building a hard lump on the surface. Nylon abrasive felt works similarly and you can even use it wet without fear for rust colouring the surface. 2500 grit definitely requires a couple of pastes for a gloss. Or finer grits and a swirl remover compound.
  11. That looks pretty but I understand what you mean. A top made of that could make you seasick... But it doesn't look bad either, there's plenty going on along the length. Looks almost like there's dozens of humps and bumps! I like it very much.
  12. How high was the highest grade? When sanding the 2K poly of my Strat I used "papers" intended for sanding paint, got them from a car paint vendor. Up to 2000 grit wet paper works quite well, from there I used 3M foam disks 3000 and 6000 grit, also wet. At places I had to go back one or two grits to remove sanding marks that popped up from an otherwise smooth surface. Even the 6000 left a milky shade to the clearcoat. After that I used a swirl remover compound. I skimped so I only bought the finest of the three of that series which I had to pay by having to use more elbow grease.
  13. Not to mention that the "very cheap off-brand" can be made out of some soft pot-metal with loose subpar threadings. The "real" parts may not fit directly. I've used some very cheap bridges and noticed that the bushings and studs don't quite match (a round of copper tape may stop the wobbling) as don't the socket set screws. The latter I've been able to fix by buying "real" M3 socket set screws from the local bolt store and re-tapping the holes. That's an easy and inexpensive fix. Regarding that it might be that the original threaded holes are a tad too wide and/or the bolts/screws a bit thinner than what you'd get from your local hardware store. Just warning you that upgrading top shelf parts may tear the cheap base. I'd use the cheap one for testing if the entire guitar pleases me and if it does, upgrade the entire Floyd to a better one when budget allows.
  14. So you can't see the "Edit" option behind the three dots in the upper right corner of your posts, or is it greyed out? For me it seems to work even for old posts. Agreed, there's no "delete" button but wiping the entire post can be done. If you can't use that option it might be because you haven't posted much yet. Can't actually remember how that is.
  15. By looking at the pictures that's not an option unless you take the fretboard off. The square thing at the end of the rod is locked in place so it won't rotate or slide, it's the solid anchor. Basically you could unscrew the adjusting nut at the headstock and pull the rod out but you can do that only after having sawed the neck but that doesn't make sense, does it? Very hypothethically, if you could drill a hole from inside the body to that anchor and by some means grab the anchor, you might be able to pull the rod. That would be much more hassle than just carefully sawing around the rod. I wonder if there's thin enough blades available for an oscillating multitool. That might be handy for getting even closer to the rod.
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