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Bizman62 last won the day on October 21

Bizman62 had the most liked content!

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About Bizman62

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  • Birthday May 29

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    Joensuu, North Karelia
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    Removing sawdust to reveal a guitar-ish item.

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  1. It's about the threaded part, not the shaft. That's what I've been trying to tell. 6 mm thickness is usually enough, I went down to 4 mm on my T-type. Then again, the Tele control cavity is much narrower which adds to stiffness across the grain. On my Semi-Hollow Neck Thru build the Ovangkol top is about 6 mm and the pots are near the f-hole. The inner curve of the f-hole doesn't give in.
  2. That's a great fix! Actually I didn't notice it before @ScottR mentioned it. Then, while waiting for your answer, I thought about your art and wondered if the dice face of 5 would have a meaning in the Rebel Cowboys mythology... You'd better come up with a fancy story other than confessing you've made a mistake.
  3. To be nitpicky, it's stiffer compared to the mass and size than most any wood. To be even nitpickier, does my comment above bring anything new to the discussion?
  4. Heat or no heat? I guess we're starting to talk about fine tuning. Would stainless steel and ancient Roman concrete be better than rebar and modern concrete? (yes it would, just because Roman concrete is still strong after 2000 years and modern concrete only lasts about 50 years. Very poor comparison...)
  5. I've heard about them, too. But even with those you'll have to have the threaded part come through the top for about 3 mm. My current build has a radiused top and the control cavity is lined along the flat bottom so the top is of unequal thickness. I'm planning to partially recess the knobs, there's a pillar drill or three in the workshop. You're right about forstner bits, they'd most likely slip and slide on a slope! A handheld router with a cove bit might work with the bearing stuck into the pot hole, especially if you attach a rail on the lower side to keep the router horizontal.
  6. Found it, listened to it and even read the lyrics. The video was hilarious, making the women produce electricity for the band with the stationary bikes reminded me of medieval organs like the ones in the Winchester Cathedral: Two organists to play and 70 men to operate the 26 bellows!
  7. Should the few last comments in this thread be teared off the context our wives might roll their eyes. Wut? Hubby wants aletrnatives for a stiff rod, huh?
  8. Hehe, just imagine filling a slot in the guitar neck with rebar and concrete...
  9. The top looks pretty thick at the holes so could it be possible to use a forstner bit to make the top about 6 mm thick around the pots or even all of the cavity? That would leave 3 mm for the nut and washer on a 9 mm shaft which should be plenty enough. 5 or 6 mm should also be strong enough unless that wood is very soft in which case some reinforcement is needed. If you route the bottom of the cavity flat you can glue a piece of cross grained 0.5 mm veneer on the bottom. If you just make the pot holes deeper gluing a large washer with epoxy to the bottom of the cup is also an option as well a
  10. Oh, that slipped my eye. But yes, same thing. As for using nylon string, knots at the ends would eliminate the slipping issue.
  11. This is starting to sound more interesting than it first looked. It also challenged my brain to think about the logic... Correct me if I'm wrong in the following: Carbon fibre doesn't stretch much Carbon fibre is coarse so the resin can stick to it (a nylon string is slippery as Teflon) Resin is more flexible than carbon fibre Resin, even hardened, is basically liquid so it doesn't compress Both resin and carbon fibre bend When carbon fibre is molded inside resin, two things happen: The carbon fibre prevents the resin from stretching (a nylon string migh
  12. Separate switches sure are more self explaining than, say, a multi switch combined with push-pull pots. Even if you're on a gloomy stage you can feel their position. Learning them is not a more difficult task than some other playing tricks. I have an early 80's Eko with 3 single coils each having a switch to turn it on or off. Then there's one between the pots and I've got no idea what it does other than that it changes the sound a bit.
  13. Several years ago I saw a Crimson video where Ben Crowe talked about a similar issue. According to him the fretboard was usable. Fretting before gluing might sit tighter than those hammered on the neck. The logic behind that is that when you're pressing the frets into tight slots the barbs carve upright grooves which theoretically might work as return paths. That can be avoided by bending the frets into a tighter radius than the fretboard, then hammering the ends and the final pressing should then make the barbs move sideways inside the slot. On fretboard only the thin bottom of the slot
  14. I was thinking about the same. Then again, it also depends on the type of bracing. Is it an X or a fan or just a ladder... Anyhow, this is an interesting topic! I'm not at all against the traditional resetting method but as we all agree it's both time consuming and delicate - and traditional! I wonder if the steam/heat method is just something very few have ever given a thought about? Inexpensive household steamers or rather vapor steam cleaners that produce low moisture steam haven't been on the market too long either and investing to a laundry size steamer would not be cost efficient fo
  15. Like B ) in my earlier post? I'll be waiting for your decision!
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