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EVH Wolfgang, Compound Radius and Bridge radius question.


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I have this EVH Wolfgang 5150 striped guitar with compound radius 12"-16" and i think the bridge radius is same as the nut 12"? shouldnt it be more like 18"-19"? i dont understand why it is 12" when the fretboard is flatter at the last frets. should i shim it, would it be more comfortable to play? why wouldnt they do it in the first place before they sell..

https://www.evhgear.com/gear/series/guitars/striped/evh-striped-series-5150/5107902515

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Technically the “correct” radius would around 18” to 19” at the bridge, as you said. But set it to what ever you feel comfortable playing with. Unfortunately Floyd Rose is what it is, and shimming is the only way to set the radius.

1 hour ago, xiltoid said:

why wouldnt they do it in the first place before they sell..

I believe it’s a cost issue. They just bolt the FR as it comes from the factory and leave set up for the customer. For their defense, they don’t know how each and every player wants to set it up. Although, I think a guitar at that price point should come with some complimentary shims.

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28 minutes ago, xiltoid said:

Do you know any guitar 12"-16" compound radius thats sold with shims? and did eddie van halen shim his floyd rose on the wolfgang guitars?

No, I don’t know answer to either. What I meant was, in my opinion Floyd Rose tremolo should come with some way to adjust it. Not so that you need to buy some extra parts to be able to adjust it. Though it’s easy to make the shims yourself if you have suitable material for it.

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Umm... Aren't the bridge pieces individually height adjustable? If the actual base has a radius too tight, raising the outer pieces should straighten it.

Also, you said you 'think' that the bridge radius is similar to the nut. But have you actually measured it? Eyeballing can be surprisingly accurate but sometimes our brains do tricks to what we see.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

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36 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Umm... Aren't the bridge pieces individually height adjustable? If the actual base has a radius too tight, raising the outer pieces should straighten it.

No, not with set screws. But yes, with shims.

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I did measure it, its 12 radius with no shims.

Ive played this guitar for long time and i love the playability, the acrion is set at 1.5mm bass and treble sides 

Question is would it make any difference if i shim it to be flatter, can i go lower string action? Ive never done it before, im going to start build my own guitars soon and just found out that the bridge radius should be more like 18-19. All guitars ive searched with floyd rose and 12-16 compound radius thats sold seems to be 12" radius, jackson soloist bridge is 12"... i guess its fine.

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19 minutes ago, xiltoid said:

Ive played this guitar for long time and i love the playability,

If you like it as is, then don't change it. Or try shims. You don't need to buy FR shims to try it, just put something under the outer saddles to get the feel. Take ~0,1 mm stock, cardboard or something, and start with one layer under A and B strings and two pieces under E's. Or maybe more, I didn't measure, but you get the idea. The difference is minimal or non existent to some. But as with all playability related it may be a huge difference to some.

Edited by henrim
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12" compared to 16" may sound like it's more than it actually is in fretboard radius. Here's a drawing that illustrates why the "wrong" radius at the bridge may not matter that much. Like said, it may matter to some people but others may not notice the difference. For someone sweep picking arpeggios at 20th fret it may be the thing. Yngwie with his scalloped Strat may disagree with that, though 😂

The upper drawing illustrates a compound radius, 12" at a (43 mm at nut) and 16" at the end of the fretboard (56 mm in this drawing). 
The other drawing illustrates the difference of a 12" and 16" fretboard at the end of a 56mm fretboard.

compound.png

Edited by henrim
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2 hours ago, henrim said:

No, not with set screws. But yes, with shims.

Ahh... Excuse me for my stupidity, I've never actually used a Floyd: What are those hex screws for?

image.png.4be40d4d22df0f10e35378ce69d60f8c.png

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1 hour ago, henrim said:

just put something under the outer saddles to get the feel.

Pieces of a soda can work well with metal. A dab of super glue can be used to align several layers.

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9 minutes ago, henrim said:

For setting and locking intonation. 

Oh... I've always thought that intonation screws are longitudinal only. New thing learned!

So, now you made me watch a video about how to intonat a FR, not as straightforward as with a more traditional bridge!

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1 minute ago, Bizman62 said:

Oh... I've always thought that intonation screws are longitudinal only. New thing learned!

Yes, that's a pain in the ass type of adjustment in Floyd Rose.
 

5 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Pieces of a soda can work well with metal. A dab of super glue can be used to align several layers.

Yes, that's a good source for thin aluminium. Clever engineering in the cans. Thickness is variable to minimal weight while keeping enough structural strength. 
Personally I use Precision Brand shim stock. Gotta love that brand name. Ok products too.
 

precission_brand.jpeg

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1 hour ago, henrim said:

12" compared to 16" may sound like it's more than it actually is in fretboard radius. Here's a drawing that illustrates why the "wrong" radius at the bridge may not matter that much. Like said, it may matter to some people but others may not notice the difference. For someone sweep picking arpeggios at 20th fret it may be the thing. Yngwie with his scalloped Strat may disagree with that, though 😂

The upper drawing illustrates a compound radius, 12" at a (43 mm at nut) and 16" at the end of the fretboard (56 mm in this drawing). 
The other drawing illustrates the difference of a 12" and 16" fretboard at the end of a 56mm fretboard.

compound.png

Oh, so thats maybe why my sweeping and arpeggios isnt fast enough ;) ive gotta try it!

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