henrim Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 47 minutes ago, RVA said: I figured out what those 2 vertical streaks were...partial submersion in Evapo-Rust, and then a flip to do the other half, so 2 marks. I decided to research it when it happened a second time with the Samson plane. They are not easy to get out, but it is possible. LKesson learned: do not partially submerge things in Evapo-Rust! That explains it. I was scratching my head on that. Similar but now equally spaced lines on both sides. But yes, better submerge the whole thing. I use phosphoric acid for rust removal and haven’t ever used Evapo-rust but I guess it behaves much the same. I have had Dinitrol’s solution that is phosphoric acid based. So I guess Evapo-Rust is too. Or it is a citric acid solution. I don’t know. I used to use plain citric said but it’s slower that phosphoric acid. Dinitrol’s solution has some other components in it but I can’t tell if it is better in any way compared to regular diluted phosphoric acid. Just don’t put any galvanized or aluminum parts in the solution! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVA Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 4 minutes ago, henrim said: Just don’t put any galvanized or aluminum parts in the solution! Can you please explain this a bit more? Don't put galvanized steel or aluminum in phosphoric acid? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 1 hour ago, RVA said: I figured out what those 2 vertical streaks were...partial submersion in Evapo-Rust, and then a flip to do the other half, so 2 marks. So obvious now that you told it! So for the next time, instead of dipping a plane nose first following with the rear, how about using a shallow tray and do the bottom first followed by the sides? Would that order leave marks to the bottom only, sanded away when leveling? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVA Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 Just now, Bizman62 said: So obvious now that you told it! So for the next time, instead of dipping a plane nose first following with the rear, how about using a shallow tray and do the bottom first followed by the sides? Would that order leave marks to the bottom only, sanded away when leveling? I think your would get marks horizontally on the sides. Marks would he hard to avoid unless fully submerged. An easy way to fully submerge things is a PVC tube with a cap on one side. Stand it up, cap down, and dump things in. All you need is a diameter just wide enough for your largest object, and then it fills up quickly, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 Yes, the tray idea was just in case there's not plenty of EvapoRust or any other rust remover. For such a situation flooding a shop towel with the stuff and wrapping it around the object might also work. Maybe using a spray bottle with water to keep the solvent moist for long enough? Just speculating. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVA Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 4 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Yes, the tray idea was just in case there's not plenty of EvapoRust or any other rust remover. For such a situation flooding a shop towel with the stuff and wrapping it around the object might also work. Maybe using a spray bottle with water to keep the solvent moist for long enough? Just speculating. I saw a side by side comparison of EvapoRust and white vinegar. The white vinegar did almost as well. $ 4.00 USD per gallon for the vinegar! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 I've actually de-rusted some files in vinegar, it left them dark similarly to phosporic acid. Actually I may have used 30% vinegar acid but it's only about the amount of acid in water, a weaker solution may lengthen the time required. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 1 hour ago, RVA said: Can you please explain this a bit more? Don't put galvanized steel or aluminum in phosphoric acid? Thank you Eats zinc coating really fast and corrodes aluminum. Not just phosphoric acid but pretty much any acid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Woozle Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 A retired chemist friend of mine always recommended oxalic acid solution for getting rust off iron as it doesn't leave a deposit on the surface, iron oxalate being water-soluble. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 33 minutes ago, Professor Woozle said: A retired chemist friend of mine always recommended oxalic acid solution for getting rust off iron as it doesn't leave a deposit on the surface, iron oxalate being water-soluble. Yes, that is actually likely a better idea for cast iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted March 5 Report Share Posted March 5 One of the two blades I posted above belongs to this plane. I have had it more than ten years. It is a flea market find I never bothered to do anything with. But now that we have this plane discussion going, I thought about giving it a go. First I freed it from most of the rust. The blade was a bit on the dull side so, I ground it flat and square and sharpened it. I need to plane the sole straight, clean the body a bit and then see if I can use the plane somewhere sometime. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Woozle Posted March 6 Report Share Posted March 6 Definitely worth bringing that one back into use! Found a bit of an issue with mine, the smoothing blade is slightly too large so I'm thinking of taking a little bit off the edges, I also dismantled the block plane and found it also had a Sorby blade in it so another one to clean up and resharpen! Then there's my boxwood spokeshaves I got in the same job lot, which are Sorby too. I think we do need an "vintage tools given new life" thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Woozle Posted March 6 Report Share Posted March 6 (edited) 1 minute ago, Professor Woozle said: Edited March 6 by Professor Woozle accidental duplication Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVA Posted March 7 Author Report Share Posted March 7 On 3/5/2024 at 5:13 PM, henrim said: One of the two blades I posted above belongs to this plane. I have had it more than ten years. It is a flea market find I never bothered to do anything with. But now that we have this plane discussion going, I thought about giving it a go. First I freed it from most of the rust. The blade was a bit on the dull side so, I ground it flat and square and sharpened it. I need to plane the sole straight, clean the body a bit and then see if I can use the plane somewhere sometime. Nice job on the blade! Slick secondary bevel Sharpening is my next frontier. I am in the process of flattering my water stones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 (edited) 6 hours ago, RVA said: Nice job on the blade! Slick secondary bevel Sharpening is my next frontier. I am in the process of flattering my water stones Thanks. I ran a couple of passes in the planer to straighten the sole. Then tested the plane. Works ok, I guess. Don’t know if I’m going to use the this plane for anything, but I guess if I do I need to camber the blade a bit more. How do you flatten the stones? I used to use sandpaper on a piece of glass. Which worked fine but, I really like the big flattening stone I got at some point years ago. Also in the picture my current sharpening guide and angle jig. While not mandatory, they sure make sharpening process more accurate and convenient. Of course if you use them you have to sell your soul and admit that you’ll never be the craftsman who effectively and repeatably sharpens perfectly their blades freehand. Low price to pay if you ask me. And believe me I desperately wanted to be that craftsman, before I realized that life is too short to do everything the hard way. Edited March 7 by henrim 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVA Posted March 7 Author Report Share Posted March 7 24 minutes ago, henrim said: How do you flatten the stones? I have been going back and forth between an inexpensive 400 grit diamond sharpening plate, which is flat but thin, so I cannot apply much pressure for fear it will bend, and a flat piece of wood I ran through my jointer with sandpaper, which works, but the sandpaper loads quickly. I will likely buy a Trend 300/1000 grit plate, which is what Rob Cosman uses (the 300 grit side) Trend Diamond Sharpening Stone Kit, 8 x 3 Inch Double Sided (300/1000 Grit) Bench Stone with Pouch, Cleaning Block & Non-Slip Mat, DWS/CP8/FC https://a.co/d/4E8lSsX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVA Posted March 24 Author Report Share Posted March 24 (edited) Before and after on the Samson Before After Edited March 24 by RVA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted March 24 Report Share Posted March 24 Nicely done! You now have a tool that's nice to use without fear for fingerprints. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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