Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted March 13, 2004 Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 I really like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Bit Posted March 13, 2004 Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 Post pulled by author. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mahelcaya Posted March 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2004 Thanks guys ! I am not really so happy with it, mostly cause there is some bleding in the grain , and I did not really do a great job routing the sides straight....it was ment to be a present for my aunt and uncle in US ( it's not a fretboard , just a little thin square board cut from a rosewood future fretboard ! ), dunno if i'll give it to them yet....not too satisfide about it. The alluminium is for metallic paint blend i guess, the guy at the shop did not say much about it, but seems to work fine. It has a really shiny effect when dry , but then when i sand it with 80 to 400 grit, and can't get it shiny that much. anyway it's always a good idea for some original inlay material..... ! - Little bit : i think i'll try some of that fluorescent powder from that RISK .....company. They sayd, in a inquiery email i sent them: that it should last 20 years ! (the glow effect ) I was told to blend 1 : 2 (catalizer) : cures quite hard if i dont put too much pigment paint in it, and I usually leave it 8 / 10 hours at least before sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPL Posted March 14, 2004 Report Share Posted March 14, 2004 but then when i sand it with 80 to 400 grit, and can't get it shiny that much... After 400 grit you'll just be starting to get an even matte, You need to sand to at least 1500 and give it a good polish. It should shine up just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted March 14, 2004 Report Share Posted March 14, 2004 I once read an article about making inlays by making a rubber mold, then pouring polyester into the mold, then the inlays pop right out. When I was around 19, i had a real cheap acoustic, and did something like the "poured into the rout" like is shown on this thread. Used epoxy and got some bubbles, plus the color turned out a little ugly. Just make sure you make ones like that cross deep enough that if there would ever be a fret-board hump where the inlay is, that the hump can be sanded down, without the inlay being sanded too thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis P Posted March 14, 2004 Report Share Posted March 14, 2004 So if i smeared the epoxy into my inlay hole, then i can sand it even and then it should last a long time??? I might do this instead of mother of pearl or abalone (sp??) Thanks Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mahelcaya Posted March 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2004 Curtis : I finish the resin inlays with shellac, have not tried it on a fretboard. Epoxy resin (in my case ) cures hard and for what I heard it will last a reeeeallyyy long time, so no worries abot that. The only thing I mentioned before, is that if u blend in a lot of color paint , the inlay does not cure so hard, worked great in the case of "the cross" were there is only resin and alluminium powder, it's really hard ..... so just do not exagerate with the white paint . I think I used in the black inlay, about 10 % of paint. OH and do some test on scrap before, don't forget to seal well the grain before routing, to avoid the horrible bleading , like in my case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis P Posted March 14, 2004 Report Share Posted March 14, 2004 ok, thank you!! I might try a tiny bit of white, i got some scraps to try it on, mostly pine, but still scraps Thanks once again Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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