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fixed bridge radius


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I asked a similar question lately-- the censensus was that you'll likely have to file the saddles down to size, using a radius guage as a guideline. Keep the outside 'E' strings where they are, as your reference point, and lower the remaining 4 strings by the appropriate amounts by filing the slots deeper.

Not having done it, but speaking from common sense, you'll have to make sure you also smooth out the slots so that the strings don't break at the saddle. I'm not sure what would be the best way to go, but if you use a fine file to begin with, and then a few grades of increasingly fine sandpaper (a few strokes each, maybe more with the finer grits since you won't have to worry about taking off too much) that should do the trick.

Any pros, feel free to confirm or refute this info. :D

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Thanks for the suggestion. These particular bridges appear to have no slots in the saddles unlike standard Gibson bridges. They are also nickel. I hate the idea of building a guitar around this style of bridge knowing that I have to modify it to work correctly.

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Hey, if it's any consolation, I'm doing the same thing. I have a 15" radius fingerboard on its way. B) I also ordered a 12" for a different project, but if I get frustrated.....

As it turns out, I was talking to one of our local respected guitar wizards, and he offered to file the bridge for me. If I elect to get it fretted, though, that'll cost. :D

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I noticed that the A-D and G-B "saddles" are adjustable for intonation. (Wilkinson)

If I remove those two saddles, It would enable me to mill the actual bridge to lower those particular saddles. I like this idea better than grooving the string slots with files.

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