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When you install the Stew mac hot rod does the back of the rod where there are still small pieces of thread sticking out just sit against the wood or do you need to put something between the threaded rod and the wood to keep it from digging into the wood when you adjust it.

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I had a similar question that I had forgotten about--

Is it even necessary to have any threads sticking out? I would have thought the optimal position was sort of 1/2 the way through the... er... rectangular doohickey. That way there's room for movement in either direction, depending on which way you need the rod to 'bend'.

Can someone confirm this?

Greg

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Cool! Good timing, I just fitted one yesterday. I always install those with the end of the threaded rods sitting flush with the face of the brass block. There is still a bit of clearance room at the end of the slot because the router bit left a curved space. Once installed, adjustment of the rod (from a relaxed state) should take no more than 3 full turns. That distance, in terms of length of rod displaced when adjusting, is pretty much negligible.

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If you ever need to use all of the threads sticking out of the brass blocks, I would say that your neck has some serious problems! Remember that these rods are manufactured to adapt to many different neck applications....sort of a "one size fits all" sort of thing. I have installed a few Hot Rods in necks that I have built(mostly on 34in scale bass necks), I have ground down almost 1/4in of threads on some.....I started making my own double-expanding rods. Obviously the scale of the neck will dictate how long the rod must be and also the point at which you will access the adjustment screw.....some installs will have longer routing slots than others......When you adjust the Hot Rod, 1/4 turn is a lot after you feel the rod "snug up".....just remember to give yourself a few threads extra sticking out of the brass block......anything more isn't adding to the performance of the rod anyway.

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