ledhead420

I put on about 10 thin coats 15 min apart no sanding. Wet sanded 24 hrs later. Re-coated then sanded 24 hrs later and repeated. I did not get the stains on the next round of wet sanding. I used a machine buffer and got a beautiful finish!

minwax fast dry polyurethane from can

for the time being, I shot another coat of poly over it and will wetsand again because I went through the clear on a few spots. I need to prepare for this in case it happens again. If I get the same marks tomorrow I will post pics. I am going to wipe off water before it dries to try to prevent these spots. What I thought was very weird was that sanding would not get rid of them. I read that vinegar is supposed to nuetralize the chemical makeup of the spots? I may try that

Hi guys. Today I wetsanded one of my projects for the final finish. I sanded the poly clear enough for the whole body to have no shiny spots. I was happy with the job although there were dried water spots and residue that wet sanding could not get rid of. Will polishing get rid of these ugly water marks? I waited 24 hours after spraying the clear to wet sand. Any help at all would be appreciated!! BTW the water marks are on only certain parts of the body.

you probably wont be able to swirl the paints just in the middle. I would go for a swirl of black and pink throughout the body.

ok. But how will i know the exact spots to put the screw holes?

I am going to be refinishing a new body that will not have any screw holes. I have all the parts thats I need I just need to know how I would go about drilling screw holes such as the pickup rings, cavity screw holes, neck screws. What can I do to get the holes in the right spot and insure that my body stays safe?

does anyone know what the cracks will do to the sound, or what will happen to them over time?

thanks man. It really sucks that I gotta start over though =[

Well yeah it definetly is a shame. I was told that If the neck pocket was not raw wood than the neck wouldn't fit on right. Well it sure as hell isn't gonna fit right now... I probably will just buy a new body and try it again...

they are definetly into the wood. But not far. I think the deepest crack is only a few cm into the surface. I am going to finish this one out and set it all up and see what it sounds like. If the cracks really alter the sound then i must start a new project body =[.

well i can assure you there was not a spot of wood shown on this body. I have done about 50 coats of paint of multiple primers, sealers, solid colors, and the swirl.

Hey guys. I recently did a swirl on my guitar and when i was finished I noticed severe cracking in the guitar even with wax in the holes. I think it was caused because of the dry climate here in Colorado. There are many cracks in the guitar and I am planning on finishing it. But what will those cracks do to my sound and what can I do to repair or maintain these cracks to prevent further problems? I filled a few of the cracks with elmers wood glue. Here some pics of the guitar. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/IbanezJunkie/SwirlRG0 15.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/IbanezJunkie/SwirlRG0 16.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/IbanezJunkie/SwirlRG0 24.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/IbanezJunkie/SwirlRG0 25.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/IbanezJunkie/SwirlRG0 23.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba.../SwirlRG020.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba.../SwirlRG021.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba.../SwirlRG022.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba.../SwirlRG017.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba.../SwirlRG011.jpg

links work here http://www.ibanez.com/forum/forum_posts.as...;PN=1&TPN=3

Ok so I did some practice swirls and here are the pics. I swirled my skateboard, and a piece of wood. The paints the I used were not suggested by the tutorial on project guitar website but I was extremely happy with the results as I did not use borax, the right paints, or the proper wood prep. AS for the guitar itself, I sanded out the neck joint (I was advised to do so) and took off the manufacturers paint inside the cavity. I tried wet sanding the scratched up surface but no luck. I will add anothe black coat before I try again. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3junkie/swirl6.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3junkie/swirl5.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3junkie/swirl4.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3junkie/swirl3.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3junkie/Swirl2.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3junkie/Swirl.jpg

heyy. If you look on the inlay and finishing chat I have my process and progress down with pics. I sanded down to the factory sealer that Ibanez put on.

sorry about the links guys. The all work on the same bulletin posted at http://ibanez.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7424&PN=1

Hey guys. My name is Patrick and I live in CO. Im 15 and play guitar. I bought an RG220B off my friend for $75. The paint wasn’t in great condition, it had stickers that wouldn’t come off, the pickups --ed and the trem sure as -- isn’t what I’d like it to be. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/IbanezJunkie/patrick0 17.jpg So I got the idea to refinish it. (I had no experience, didn’t know anyone that did, and just went off of information I got off the web) I planned it out without being sure on what my final paint was going to be. So I stripped it down the body and sanded it down to the factory sealer. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba...progress017.jpg I started priming with a wood sealer I bought from Sherwin Williams. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba...ie/P1010062.jpg At this point it was around --mas time when I asked for a little bit of cash to get some new pups and electronics. So I went online and ordered some fresh Evos and Dimarzio electronics. Here in Colorado it is very hard to paint at this time. With it snowing once or twice a week and below 30 for months its pretty much impossible. I finally went to an auto shop and bought some suggested paints from forums. I bought Dupli-Color sandable primer and black high gloss acrylic enamel. I applied the gray primer to the guitar. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba...unkie/RG008.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba...ie/P1010017.jpg After 2 coats of white primer, 3 coats of gray primer, I decided to do the eye popping swirl technique. I decided on doing a couple different shades of blue on a black base coat. So I applied about 5 coats of black. Here is where I am as of now. I am a little confused on what to do. I finished painting my last coat of black and it was glossy but I had imperfections (Due to the lack of experience) So I sanded with 1000grit to fix them although the surface shows all the scratches of the sand paper on the paint. Everywhere I have seen says to sand in between coats but I just don’t understand how I could swirl over a scratched up paint like this. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba...unkie/RG004.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba...unkie/RG007.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c358/Iba...unkie/RG006.jpg I suspect it may be the auto paint, which I am unsure if it is sandable. If I don’t sand how do I insure that I get a good paint job to put the swirl on? I am going to Hobby Lobby to try out some model paints on wood for the swirl, I am also not sure where to get the paints suggested on the tutorial on projectguitar.com. Also anyone know anything about rerouting for edge before I finish this job? If there is a way to route this thing for a beast of a trem I would do it for sure. Any comments, tips, questions, or replies are greatly appreciated!