killemall8

is soft maple bad for necks? . if it is good to build necks, then i can get it cheap with huge figure.

right after i posted this i found a bunch of posts even with the same sell on ebay. but i have yet to find something on using it for necks. any suggestions?

never mind, i found some stuff and the end of the search results.

i have come across what seems like a good deal for fretwire. is german silver the same silver used in nickle/silver frets?

http://cgi.ebay.com/German-Silver-Fretwire...VQQcmdZViewItem

has anyone used german silver? how does it play/wear/feel? any info would be great. thanks!

I can't do any graphics, and Alexis look awesome with pinstripes. Any idea how much it would cost to get it painted all black with white pinstripes at a car place?

will it interfere with the kandy and the hardeners in the kandy? it says it can be sprayed over all of there bases, but i guess if i cant spray it over the sealer, i could probably spray clear then kandy, then clear again, right?

If you are using the UK candies from HOK all it is is Clear with Kandy in it. This would be the same over the sealer as Clear. Compatibility with the sealer could be a issue so test it first. I prefer to use candy concentrate or KK from HOK in Intercoat clear as it sprays like a basecoat. You will need to clear your candy in window otherwise it has to be sanded before reclearing.

are the kk's only availible in 2 and 4 oz quantities?

I work for a office furniture company in Michigan and that price sound good to me.

I just checked a local wood store and 2 inch mahogany is 11.16 board foot.

the same size piece of mahogany would be 280.00 here in Michigan

for a body blank for a fender strat/tele your looking about 40.00

if it is still available I would get it.

you will have enough for a few projects not to mention ribbon mahogany is vary nice stuff.

well they always have a ton of huge mahogany boards at this place nice and clean and clear. most of the good stuff is at the bottom of a pile, and you can only go under 1 stack. ive been going there for 2 years, and just started looking into mahogany recently. by the way, what other types of ash are there besides swamp ash, because i used some ash for one of my other projects, and it has the same grain pattern as swamp, but was ridiculously heavy and hard. i broke 2 bandsaw blades on it and had to get a huge blade to be able to cut it.

i had a chance a few weeks ago to buy a board of ribbon grain african mahogany in the size of 2x15x10ft for 96$. now if you ask me that is a titanic sized piece of wood for that price. so what do you guys pay for your mahogany? please list all 3 dimentions for your wood. thanks!

sure its possible, and much easier if you plan to refinish it. and you should check the trem rout first, sometimes a floyd will fit in standard trem routs, but very very tightly.

erm.. could you pls explain a little more on what you mean by 'fit very tightly'?

i just mean that the floyd block will have almost no room to move around in the old trem rout, but sometimes wont fit at all. if it does fit, it will be so close that it wont have any clearence to move side to side, and might not fit the bushing for the arm. but i have a rhoads guitar template that has a standard trem rout, and a floyd fits in that, but like i said, very tightly, and the intonation might be a little off. what you could to is get your floyd, take out your other one, and just see if it fits.

will it interfere with the kandy and the hardeners in the kandy? it says it can be sprayed over all of there bases, but i guess if i cant spray it over the sealer, i could probably spray clear then kandy, then clear again, right?

MAKE ME ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thats like exactly what im looking for for my next guitar O.O

If you are serious, email me. I'll be starting another couple of these soon.

is this the guitar you said that jackson copied from you? i know its just a pic and not a real pic of a guitar, but i have seen them on the jackson site for custom jobs

Thanks.

did you use a cove bit to recess the knobs? if so what size bit did you use? thanks!

how should i finish this guitar? what do you think would look good. please list all your suggestions. thanks

I've only used Minwax Tung Oil Finish, which is not pure tung oil. It does make wood look very slightly darker, but not much.

thats the one i was thinking of using, and i wouldnt mind it looking a little darker. what do yo think it would look like on this?

is it clear, or is it a tinted finish? i have looked at guitars finished with it, but i cant tell if it is clear. thanks

i plan to fill those holes up with epoxy then spray then black. sure, it won't look perfect, but who's gonna notice anything unless they look closely? anyway, conclusion = its possible, right?

sure its possible, and much easier if you plan to refinish it. and you should check the trem rout first, sometimes a floyd will fit in standard trem routs, but very very tightly.

Do you mean like on carved tops to make it easier to turn the knobs? Hope this helps. link

yup, thats what i meant. is that what everyone uses here? thanks

My bridge isn't a hardtail bridge. And since i don't plan on floating the bridge, will it really take a lot of routing on the top to make it fit? i was thinking that i'd only have to route a possibly bigger hole for the tremolo block and springs? am i right..?

well, that one looked like a hardtail from the pic. but im pretty sure the trem wouldnt cover up the holes from the anchoring part of the bridge.

Yea, its like the one in ur pic. its a strat type bridge, the bridge found on an Ibanez GRX40..

well, it depends. i dont think a non recessed trem woud cover up the existing holes from the hardtail. and routing the guitar without damaging the finish is almost impossible. especiall on the back with the big routs for the spring cavity. if you really think you want a trem on it.

Is it posible to change my Ibanez FAT6 bridge (its a 'normal' bridge) to a Floyd Rose (NOT floating)? What are the positive and negative effects of doing this mod?

pics? what kind of "regular bridge" a hardtail strat type bridge? inform.

is it like this?

http://www.kinkomusic.com/pic/electric_guitar-9832-001.jpg

how do you do it? what is it done with?

That's a beautiful piece of what looks like ribbon grain african mahogany you have there, very nice work.

comments please i want to know what you think. my posts never get very many comments, so please comment if you can! thanks

got the control cavity plate recessed and the vol/tone holes drilled.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k...project2003.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k...project2002.jpg

Thank you all for your posts! :-)

I hope the images are not a problem, they resides on my website.

Anyway, the staining process was very simple: I applied only a coat of a water base stain then I wiped with a damp cloth (I did this because the final color was a little too dark).

Some people suggest to sand the first coat and to apply the stain again, this enphasize the flame. Another way to emphasize the flame is to apply first black stain, sand and then apply the final color. I, personally, prefer applying only one coat of stain without sanding: in this way the wood looks 3D, in few words, depending on the light angle, the pattern varies and the maple seams alive (the main problem is that to see this effect when you apply the sanding sealer).

I hope this will help, if not, don't hesitate to ask me again.

Thank you all again :-)

great job! that one looks beautiful. what kind of nut is that?

I'm going to agree with the questionable wood species, but that aside, 1) The carve looks pretty sweet, 2) yes on the KL headstock, 3) yes on the red inlays, but 4) I don't know if I'd do sharkfin inlays. I might want to look into something more symmetrical, because sharkfins look best on really angular guitars, which the LP admittedly, is not. The traditional LP inlays would definitely work, even if you wanted to do a red mirror inlay. But I'd shy away from the sharkfins, something more symmetrical would suit it better.

And a side note. Methinks that will be one dense-sounding guitar, without a maple top to brighten things up. It's your call entirely, but you might want to think about a maple neck if you're going with an all mahogany body. Maybe chambering, too.

yes its definitly the pics. my camera really sucks, and i took all of these pics at night and inside. i will get some good ones up tomarrow. it has really nice streaks. it looks almost white in those pics compared to what it really is. i probably will go with a maple neck. probably flame maple. i guess i could go with the red mirror block inlays too. here it is routed:

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k...lproject004.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k...lproject005.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k...lproject003.jpg

There's a reason that those command several thousand dollar price tags through the custom shop. The time and difficulty sanding the King Cuts is part of the price tag. I would have no problem hanging on of those on the wall and using it to annoy the neighbors, but it certainly would never see stage use. I KNOW I would snap the cutaway off if I was playing somewhere other than at home. I love the swirled paint jobs though. If I ever get any of my Jackson's through the custom shop, the first is going to be a Crimson Swirl.

i got both of the pics from ebay, they were running 2900 each. they are from a small batch from the custom shop, 3 of each in 4 colors. and they come with pearly gates duncans. they really are great guitars, but yes fragile.

ive got this les paul style build going on now. just waiting for neck parts and wood before i continue. it is solid african mahogany,( dark spots are fingerprints, only has 1 small knot) the neck will be mahogany also, with a kl headstock and most likley alternating red mirror sharkfin inlays

like this

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not sure on the finish yet. i actually did the carving with a buffer with a sanding disk. works really great since it is round, you can go around the body really easy.

let me know what i should do with the finish. comments please i want to know what you think. my posts never get very many comments, so please comment if you can! thanks

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k...lproject002.jpg

What kind of jack are you using that you need a 3/4" hole? I thought this jack was considered the standard and Stewmac says it only requires a 3/8" hole.

what it means is you need a 3/8 inch hole for the 1/4" plug part to fit through the mounting plate. i have those exact jacks and a 3/4" hole barley allows the prongs to fit through.