Phil Mailloux

And if you get real exited during a gig you can do a Jimi on it and kick the crap out of it and set it on fire voodoo style and you won't feel bad 'cuz you only paid 30 pounds for it

The crappynity series is the lowest priced/cheapest/crappiest of all of the squier models out there. They go between 150-180$ usd new. Cheap cheap cheap, as stated earlier. Only good for spare parts in my opinion and even then that'll be very crappy spare parts.

Yeah, but it's the way he uses it that makes the whole difference.

Pretty cool finish. Pink Floyd are responsible for making me love strats. Back in the late eighties when I was still a guitarist I was only into shredder guitars until I saw Dave Gilmour play a black strat with white pickguard on the live at pompei video. that turned my world upside down and I got an identical one not too long after. Best band that ever existed in my opinion, cool design you've done.

"Teak and Fancy Timbers" down on the gold coast has most woods you'll need. Wenge is pretty expensive though, about twice the price of rock maple. I'd stick with maple unless your parents are a bottomless pit of money There's also Moxon Timbers in Yeronga that carries a lot of imported woods but their showroom is quite small and you can't really see most of the woods you'd buy which is a disadvantage. Have a look in the yellow pages and make some calls, you'll find some more.

Yes, I meant keep the meranti for decorative laminate within the neck. Definitely get rock maple for that neck. I got enough to build two necks a couple of years ago for 20 euro at the Amsterdam FH. You can pretty much get whatever you want there. I wouldn't use the meranti except just as an accent wood. Use something better for your wings like mahogany or whatever else you find thats decent there. Stay away from Gamma or Praxis! At least when it comes to buying hardwood. I've also found a couple of cheap pieces of decent hardwood by looking in the gouden gids and making some phone calls to local wood suppliers.

I've never seen any other hardwoods at Gamma than Meranti and that sure looks like it. If I were you I'd just go to the A'dam or Arnhem Fijnhouthandel and get proper woods. Keep the meranti for colored laminate accents.

I don't know whether I should thank you for anwering my question or swear at you for making me spend money on the new edition you get my thanks either way Anyone wanna buy a first edition?

I don't understand what you mean by "swatchs" On those 18 pages is there such a thing as: This picture represents recipe number XXX? Thats pretty much what I'm after. Colored picture examples of those recipes. If there isn't any it's worthless to me and saves me $30 + shipping

I know thats why I replied to your thread

Godin, Now that I'm thinking about it. I'm wondering if I really want that second edition. Maybe you can help? In the recipes section, is there a color picture of what the results are supposed to be like? How many pages of gloss photos do you get? Is it like just a few pages in the middle of the book with some higher quality paper and gloss pictures on it or is it that every page has glossy pictures of most of the details of the subjects discussed?

You can't really build up shellac easily, it sounds like your Zinsser sealcoat will do the job shellac is usually used for. I just start building up with clear lacquer after my seal coat. You can very easily build up and level things out as you go with clear lacquer. The advantage of lacquer is that it melts all your sanding scratches in your previous coats when you apply a new layer. What I usually do. I spray 3 or 4 coats of lacquer per day with at least an 1 to 2 hours wait between the coats, then let is sit overnight. In the morning I sand my coats flat then go on with the 3 coats for that day until I built up a thick (and flat) enough layer after several days of shooting. I let it sit for 3-4 weeks before I finish sand and buff.

I've got the videos and the first edition of the book. I liked the videos because they explain a lot better (i.e. with images) the theory behind the book. I wasn't a big fan of the book because it didn't have any colored pictures anywhere. Kinda hard to picture a "pre-65 fender sunburst" or a "gibson tv yellow" or a "butterscotch blonde" if you've never seen one in person and don't have pictures in the book to show you what its supposed to look like. You got recipes to make all those finishes but not even one picture to show you what it looks like Thats what irritates me about the second edition, now they got all these nice pictures in the book and I have to spend another $30 just to get those extra photos

Very nice plan Boonk, good luck with the build. that should come out looking very nice.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....ickguard+Sheets I hope you live in the states because they won't ship it by air. That stuff is made from celluloid, i.e. flamable.

Brian's got a tutorial on the main site that shows how to make one, that'll save you 50 bucks but even then you can do that job with a file yourself by angling it with your hands and going up and down the fretboard carefully. The radiused sanding block is pretty usefull for sanding your fretboard (even if its radiused) and sanding you frets after they're installed.

I totally agree with that

For refretting your strat, just get some of those plastic headed hammer from Bunnies instead of ordering from the states. What do you want to use the radius gauges for? If it's just for refretting and you don't plan on sanding the whole neck down then you don't really need it (if you do sand the neck down, you'll need them) If you're really tight on cash you can make your own gauges. you don't need notched radius gauges unles you're going into business and think you'll setup tons of instruments per year. For the fret cutter and puller, you got that right, you can grind it down yourself if you want or buy stewmac's. Their stuff is good quality but again, if you're tight on cash... For crowning and shaping the frets you can either use triangular files you'll get in a hardware store or the proper crowning files for luthier. Be prepared to spend a lot of time getting used to those triangular files before you get decent results. For the nuts, if you want pro quality work you'll need the proper nut files. For the electronics, I've never seen guitar pots in an electronics shop, they usually only carry that plastic pcb stuff, i'd stick with the proper ones. The wire you can buy in a local shop Since you already invested in tons of books should I mention that stewmac dvd's are a good source of learning? The basic fretting dvd might be something interesting for you. Where are you in Australia? I'm in Brissie

and it's getting to be expensive too. It's already up to $78 and there's still 6 days to go! (Can you see dollar signs in my eyes?)

I've got my copy of the book on ebay. Here's my listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

There should be a "tip of the day" thread somewhere. That is one great tip. I'll be definitely doing this from now on.

That would be a great idea! I'd love to see that. I had a look in the archives at all the winners this year and that would be some seriously tough competition.

NEVER - I'll never forgive for that. I used to work behind a bar (some time ago) and the theme to Titanic was requested (and played) about 10 times a night There's not a lot that bring me to violence, but she is most definately near the top. ← You think you got it bad? Celine has been a star in Quebec since the age of 11, waaayyy back in the early 80's. I've had to listen to this crap for the last 25 years non-stop! Whether that was in french or english or even when I backpacked through australia in 98' (titanic year) or lived in Holland 6 years (played on the radio 4 times a day) Can't get away from her!!! Aaaarrrrgghhhhhhh!! BLAME CANADA!

As most people here know our friend Perry up there is the most popular importer/retailer for the luthier stuff. On another note, I found Titebond, shellac, hide glue, Hot Stuff CA glue and West System epoxy at Carba-Tec.

Really? Damn, thats awesome... No break or anything? It's gonna be a problem though because I want to make a counter... And mattia, you can solder it together but it's really not very recommended. ← There's no problem at all with resoldering it. Read my pickup tutorial if you want to see how I do it. http://home.zonnet.nl/wilmaremy/makingpups.html