MKGBass

i like the titebond place, thats nice. I need a titebond rack

I am unfamiliar with the what you just did to that guitar, Drak. Question: Did you route that down for the purpose of diminishing the heel chunkiness, or was it pure aesthetic. Or both

The Bart's on my bass are active. There is a preamp built into the midboost/bass cut pot. It's an ibanez. I broke the pot with the preamp once and it took 2 1/2 months to get the part from japan

why do you want a bass tremolo so much, just out of curiousity?

If you feeling comfortable purchasing a bartolini DO IT if you want great tone. They're among the top bass pickups. Otherwise, the ACTIVE EMG's are really nice. I haven't installed many pickups so I can only tell you what I've experienced, but I like the Bartolini's a lot, I've got some sort or other on my bass.

I agree with Darren. The improvement you made is fantastic, though. If you really liked the lower horn, you could do some work with the upper curves of the body to make it match. Maybe drop the forearm curve back towards the tail of the bass a litte, but keep the upper horn curving out. I'm just spitting out ideas. Know that ultimately, whatever you do is your project. And if it's your bass, it doesn't really matter what we think on the forum as long as your happy with the outcome, and you've got something you can enjoy. 2 cents in your pocket from mine. ps. I like your photoediting skills, i wish i could do that....

amen

Looks not too bad. I would be super afraid of snapping that lower horn on something though. Wander over to the tutorial section on the main www.projectguitar.com site. Theres loads of info about putting necks & bodies together.

ha....hahaa...haha..tight

Nope. There are a ton of different ways to do a headstock. Theres just one piece of wood with the neck. There's a scarf joint. If the neck is 5 pieces of wood usually the headstock is continuous through that. There can be wood laminates on headstocks, I'm sure theres other ways. Maybe a 5 pc neck with a 3 pc scarf jointed headstock......crazy Sometimes also the headstock and neck will be continuous, but in order to acheive full headstock size, "wings" will be glued on either side.

^ What he said!

Also keep in mind that the dimensions of that guitar are WAY cut down do to the no headstock, and really no body wings either. It's a relatively small piece of wood for that one.... Not saying that that makes it any easier, just less expensive

Adding another 20" or so onto a body that is already about that long is A TON of wood. You'd need a board at least 14" wide and maybe 2" thick and anywhere up to 40" long. Thats huge, so when you start getting into woods that are worth while, you may be looking at a lot of money...or little quality. In addtion it could be very risky attempting to form the body wings and heel when the neck is already right there. If you make one mistake, the entire thing is scrap. And there's lots of room for mistake

It seems southpa has said all to be said... I just gotta ask though...are you fond of eating the dead?

I WANTED to vote for Setch's entry because I love his choice of woods for that guitar. But Drak's was finished and he did an awesome finish job, so he got my vote.

is there going to be a carved top on this instrument? If not, how are you going to get rid of all the bulk wood. If my eye tells me right, thats probably than comfortble thickness as it stands? Looks to be a killer, I like lacewood.

HAHA

No idea, though I played an acrylic Warlock and hated it. I'm just a woods man, haha, i would probably melt acrylic or something...

1st question, normall two pieces is like, one for the left side, one for the right side. Some guitars (Like lots of PRSes) have a bottom piece(mahogany) and an top piece (figured maple). It's not NECESSARILY better. It's really a huge matter of opinion on whether you want 1, 2, or 3 pieces. If the glue joint is strong, its virtually the same as one piece of wood. I guess you could argue that the tone is more continuous on one piece bodies...but I personally don't care.

Depends on the model etc. Lots are 2 pieces glued down the centerline.

yeah man, nice. really nice

1. That cannot be determined unless you've got the dimensions in the channel that already exists. If the channel is narrower and shallower than a Hot Rod would require (7/32" x 7/16") then the answer is yes. Otherwise, especially if your channel is deeper, you COULD do it, but you might run into truss rattle problems as well as some other things. 2. The length of the neck i would think is already determined. If the fretboard is not slotted, you should be able to slot it and fret it to pretty much any scale you wish. The scale length would then be determined by the distance from the nut to the saddles on the bridge. If you choose to lengthen or shorten your scale, you simply place the bridge at your desired distance. Fret based on the distances for your scale (12th fret should be halfway between nut and bridge). If someone would post the Fret Calculator for scale lengths, that would be helpful I'm sure, as I need that location as well.

I honestly don't think you'll have much finding them. Go to their site and email DanaBGoods and you might have some luck finding out what they use. I emailed them once about the MEC Pickups, and though I could not get them without purchasing a warwick (haha...whoa) I actually got an email from a person, so it may be worth trying. Otherwise if you happen to have an extra thousand or so lying around, buy one and find out first hand

I'd be worried using that Harbor Freight router in a piece of wood. Esp. rock maple or ash, other hard woods, etc. 1 HP doesn't get you much, and if the collet isn't sturdy enough, if the wood is too much for your router, the collet could break and that bit will get sucked right into the wood, destroying it. Porter Cable = GOD Routers.

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