frank falbo
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Everything posted by frank falbo
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Procedure for building a bound neck
frank falbo replied to angry_jeremy's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Binding before fretting, always. I've used a router to create the binding channel after installation, and I've also applied the binding to the board before attatching it. I like applying the binding to the board because then, when I'm doing the final planing to the underside of the board in preparation for the glueing, the binding is always perfectly straight, because it gets planed with the board. I don't have to worry about getting a good, tight fit against the back of the neck, or the board, like you do with a rabbet cut. -
Need info on fretless neck filling
frank falbo replied to vwall's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
IMO you need to fill the slots under pressure. Once those slots are empty you essentially have kerfing, weakening the neck. You'll find you need more truss rod tension, and even then, are more likely to develop an "S" curve in there. Just filling them is at least something, but if you're using veneer or plastic binding, at least try to have it a little oversized for a tight fit. And you can install/glue with the truss rod a little overtightened, so the backbow "opens up" the slots to you. Then don't release tension until the glue is dry. I guess anything to help a little in strengthening the neck is good. Even using graphite if it's a maple board, or stainless/brass on dark wood. -
I've seen at hardware stores contour gauges that are made up of tiny rods or pins lined up flat, then held together tightly in a strip. You press them into your contour and they hold the shape. One good use for these would be to take the "imprint" of the neck shape at any given place, then rotate it 180 degrees to check for symmetry. That being said, I always shape by feel and I can tell when I've achieved symmetry. I carve a lot of assymetrical necks, though. Where the treble side is a little slimmer with more slope and less roundness.