jay5

I would like to pick up a few maple neck blanks to work on my building skills. The first 3 I got were from the bay but it looks kind of scarce there now. Does anyone have a source for some decent priced blanks. I do not have a planer/jointer so unfourtunately my local hardwood shop is out of the question. Thanks guys!

Interesting Myka. I only have a cutter bit with a top mounted bearing but the method described would still work. I will just need to have a very level surface for the router to run across. I was also thinking of trying to find some acrylic plastic as the strait edge. That way if I did screw up I wouldnt hurt the bit too much.

Cool, got it. Thanks!

Derek, could you elaborate on how you set up the router to ensure that it wouldnt hit the metal? I have a router table and was just curious about your method. Thanks

Is it a bad idea to run a template bit against a metal template? Since I dont have a bandsaw I have decided that the best method available to me is to rough cut the neck shape with my crappy jigsaw and then use a straight edge (template) and template router bit to accurately cut the fingerboard part of the neck straight. I would then cut and sand the headstock shape by hand. Obviously this method would require a very straight template. I was thinking of getting a piece of square aluminum for this. Would I be jeapordising my bit by doing this as the cutting edge would have to run against the metal until the bearing could run against the neck itself. Thanks!

I love those turtle inlays!

Southpa, thanks alot for the help! I figured I could rig somthing up and since I havent shaped the back that method sounds perfect. Also that hint with the pencil is a great idea, I will use that as well. thanks again!

Well I got a little ahead of myself yesterday and rough cut my first neck before routing the truss rod chanel. Now I dont have a square edge to use. Does anyone have any advice on how I should procede? I was thinking of rigging some sort of fence up but I am not sure ecactly how to go about this. I have seen people selling neck templates that have the truss channel in them. Could I make a template? I am using a stewmac hotrod. The bit for that has a 7/32" cutter on a 1/4" shank. Could I make a template just a tad big and let the shank run along it kind of like a bearing? Any help is greatly appreciated!

I have worked with fiberglass before. To do a small project like this and do it right you are going to spend a ton of money! You need the actual material, a res/hardener, somthing to make your mold, a release agent for the mold and other stuff for finishing and what not. Even if you used the cheapest material ('boat cloth') you would still be spending a lot, not to mention the trial and error cost you would incur. If I remember correctly the resoglass airlines were designed to provide a guitar that could be built cheaper than a traditional wood instrument but in the end it turned out to be much more costly working with the fiberglass. I would HIGHLY reccomend taking the wood approach, as I am doing on my airline copy.

Nice!!! Thanks for the heads up man!!

Thanks Derek! That helps a lot. As far as the inlay is concerned it will be interesting to hear everyone's opinions. Thanks again

I am trying to mark out centerlines and such on rosewood (fretboard) and I cant seem to get a pencil line to show up. What do you guys use. I was thinking maybe a white colored pencil? Chalk is too thick. Sorry about the elementary question

OK, I have been racking my brain over a neck I am getting ready to start. I have all the pieces but I am hesitant to start as Im not sure what order to do things in. Here is a list of parts I'm using;

- 27"X4"X1" maple neck blank

- pre slotted, UN-radiused rosewood fretboard

- enough binding to bind fretboard, not headstock

- MOP Les Paul type inlays

- double acting truss rod

- 2 18" carbon fiber rods

Now, I need to know what order would be best for assembling. I have an idea what order to do but there are some aspects of this neck that are giving me some problems. I do NOT have a bandsaw so I will be using a template and a router to cut the neck shape. Here are my questions;

1) I got an unradiused fretboard so that I could route the areas for the inlay accurately. Should I also install the binding at this time? Before I radius the boar? My insticts say yes but they have been known to be wrong.

2) Should the whole fretboard be put together (inlays/binding) before being attached to the actual neck or after. Since Im doing a binding the final dimensions of the fretboard will need to be exact, there wont be any room for trimming.

3) Should I wait to carve the back neck profile untill after the fretboard has been glued on? To me this seems like It would allow for a more stable base and prevent any possible backbow. Also, I have never radiused a fretboard so I am not sure hom much of the board I will actually need to take off thus I dont know how much of the 1" thickness of the neck itself will need to be removed to give the neck its final thickness.

4) Finally, as i said this is the first board I have radiused myself. When I am routing for the inlays which are 1/16" thick should I route exactly 1/16" deep or go more so that I dont risk taking them down to nothing at the edges. I will be using a 12" radius.

Wow, for those of you who have made it through all that I really appreciate it! All the books I have talk about attaching the fingerboard after the neck has need cut and profiled and then trimming it down. Doing my own inlay/binding/radiusing has kind of thrown a wrench (or two) into that whole idea. Any info you all have woud be GREATLY appreciated. thanks to all.

HaHa, yeah, that is pretty sweet. I wouldnt have the patience to make that!

I passed. I figured in parts alone (truss rods, fretboards) it would be worth it but I dont need to buy stuff simply for the sake of having it. What woud I do with 6 necks! Buy stuff for 6 bodies thats what. You can see the problem there Anway, that guy always has some interesting stuff up. I'll let everyone know if I find anything else worth looking at.

Thanks, Im gonna keep an eye on it!

I found this neck on the bay. The guy tried to put a locking nut on I think. Anyway does anyone have any ideas about how (if its possible) to get the nut back on there and make this a player without putting on a new fretboard. I dont really have any experience with locking nuts but I suppose I would consider it. How much do they run and does it look like it has been set up ok or did the guy butcher it? Thanks!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...MEBWA%3AIT&rd=1

This is the bit I got;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...MEBWN%3AIT&rd=1

Not sure how the price compares but I figure $25 isnt too bad a deal. I use 3/8" mdf for templates. What size flush trim bit do you use? Thanks!

I have some money designated for router bits. I just got a whiteside top bearing bit for neck pockets and other cavities. I need to get a roundover bit as well as a standard cutting bit for truss rod channels. What size/brand do you guys use for different applications and where do you generally buy them? Also, for anyone who routes out the body shape with a template what size bit do you use for this?

If I have a neck that I want to remove the fretboard and truss rod from that is adjustable from the headstock and use these parts on a new neck I'm making that will be adjustable from the heel will I encounter any problems with the truss rod. Are truss rods designated heel/headstock adjustment?

Check this out! Anyone interested?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...MEBWA%3AIT&rd=1

That is an awesome guitar. Great job! I love Mosrites! I plan on having a go at one after I finish my Airline copy. I was watching that exact trem on ebay a couple months a go. Good deal. The site as rad too!

Thanks again guys!

seriously though, try and keep your measurements square with the board (use the fret slots as your square lines) when measuring the width..

Thats what I was thinking. Thanks!

Frenzy, I'm thinking the same thing. Id rather throw an extra $20 at the neck now than have it go to hell down the road.