jay5

In all honesty I had never considered using CA in a wood to wood joint like that before reading that writeup. That being said, if Kevin Ryan says its good I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to follow suit. As with any joint I imagine that the precision of the surfaces is key to having a strong, invisible glue line. Keep in mind, Ryan uses a veneer on both the front and back of the headstock. I would also hesitate to consider the typical "ear joint" a truly structural one, especially when veneering both sides. I cant really imagine a significant stress on the joint unless you have a tuner hole right through the glue line. Look at most headstock ears out there. After all the machining is completed there usually isn't a ton of material even left. No more structural than a heel cap IMO. That's assuming a "typical" headstock size I suppose. Certainly not the rule though, I'm sure you could devise a scenario which would ask a lot of said joint if you tried. Like anything else its definitely an operation worthy of care and precision. Just my opinion....

Look at the first three pics here; http://ryanguitars.com/theworkshop/Buildin...Ears%20Face.htm also,

Yeah, mine is probably from the 50's. I got it for $40 and it was really clean and complete. I am sure that the blade sold by LMI is just what you say and I am sure you could find one from any good machine shop catolog, McMaster-Carr maybe? I use the stiffeners on mine and I think they are essential for a stable cut. Have you checked out OWWM.org and OWWM.com? They are great resources for old tools. I rebuilt an older Delta 14" bandsaw and have since picked up two drill presses from the 40's, an old Unisaw and a Delta 20" bandsaw. I didn't really believe that the old tools were that much better than the new stuff but I'm convinced now. I don't think I'll ever buy a new tool if an older machine is available. Now if I can only stop rebuilding machines and build a damn guitar.

I would avoid using the circular saw if I could. Those things vibrate quite a bit and I imagine that the runout is probably beyond acceptable for slotting frets. I would keep looking for a smaller, belt driven table saw. Avoid the direct drive machines (the small ones) for the same reasons I wouldnt use the circular saw. I bought an old Craftsman 8" saw, belt driven with a 1/2" arbor and it is heavy, quiet and smooth. I had to go the opposite rout you did and fit a bushing to adapt the blade to the smaller arbor but it works great.

Why did you orient the grain of the body perpendicular to the neck? Do you realize that your neck joint is a side grain to end grain joint and thus VERY weak. I would be very worried about the guitar staying together to be perfectly honest.

EBAY!

I have a brand new Jag/Jazzmaster bridge for sale in chrome. I ended up using a different bridge on the project. Allparts has it listed at $40. I'd like to get $30 shipped obo. Mounting cups are included. Here is a LINK for reference.

I have a lefty MightyMite strat neck I have no use for. It has never been mounted (you'll need to drill the neck screw holes). It has a slotted nut. It's a little shop worn, has a couple dents on the back of the headstock but is ready to go. No logo, rosewood board, 22 frets, 1 5/8" nut. I will need to check on the radius. Does appear to be finished, except for the headstock face. Pretty standard fare. I won't have pics for a couple of days. These sell for about $100 or so. I'd like to get $55 shipped inside the US. Thanks!

Benedetto uses a curved rod in his book.

The Craftsman Professional series router is identical to the Bosch 1617 which IMO is a killer router. Get the Kit with both bases and you're good to go. I do have a little 1/4" collet Craftsman router that got me started but I soon grew out of the limited range of bits it allowed me to use.

Hey great to hear Daniel! I really wanted to try to clean some of the gunk off of it but I figured that you would rather have it asap. By the way, I just noticed that LMI sells the little insulation piece that goes between the iron and the base for $5. I would pick that up regardless of how you decide to heat it. Good luck! Can't wait to see how you rebuild it!

Hey guys, I listed this board the other day, thought some of you might be interested, no reserve. Board

I have the aluminum form that is all thats left of our bending iron from work. The electronics and wood base are long since trashed, but I rescued the aluminum form before it was tossed. I was going to take it home and fasion a torch fired iron but just don't see myself doing a ton of bending in the near future. Anyway, this is the aluminum piece that you see in the pic. You could get a new heating element from LMI for $30 or just make a torch heated unit as I was gonna' do. The going rate on the units is about $150. I would like to get $55 plus shipping for this. I can get some pics of the actual piece if necessary. Thanks!

Hey man, sorry I missed your post! The neck blanks sold, but the body did not so it has been relisted. These were my first go at "buy it now" auctions. Not really my style I think. Anyway, I also listed a flamed maple 25.5" board. Links are below! Board Body blank

Hey guys, I just threw up a few pieces that I dont have time to get to on ebay. On a similar note, if you have any special requests for this kinda' stuff please let me know. Body Neck #1 Neck #2