jay5

Ok wait, I think I read your post wrong Rhoads. Are you saying it is easier to get an unradiused board mark it and THEN radius it myself or that its easier to find the line on a radiused one and then have to do the sanding. I apologize for my stupidity

Thanks Dave! I'll give them a go.

Ok, radiused it is. Any hints on finding the centerline? thanks!

I'm going to be buying a 25.5" scale fingerboard for the tele I'm building. My question is how tough is it to get the centerline established on a radiused board for mounting purposes. I would imagine that if you were off a bit it would give the board a strange feel once trimmed and mounted. At the same time on the boards that you buy from stewmac and the like they are only rough cut so in theroy the peak of the radius migt not be the center of the board. This would make it very hard to establish the centerline> Would it just be easier to get an unradiused board, mark it and glue it up and then radius it? ANY experience or ideas are welcome. Oh, im only doing dot inlays and to my knowledge this can be done after radiusing. Thanks!

Well, I thought this thread was just going to dissaper. Thanks to all for your opinions! I'm doing a flatsawn maple neck with a double acting truss rod so I guess it wouldnt hurt to throw a couple of those rods in there just for piece of mind. What size would you guys reccomend?

Greg, that sounds like a plan. I figure that I'll give the 0.060 a go as it is my first time. Thanks to you too Lovisa!

I am goint to bind the neck on my project. I just want to do a single piece, nothing layered. Anyway, what is a standard dimension for this application? Here is the link to stewmacs page;

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_trim...ic_Binding.html

thanks!

Im looking for a good rock/punk sounding bridge humbucker for my project. Like anything else Im trying to get out cheap. I have a JB4 going into another project but I would like to put somthing similar into this one. Any suggestions/preferences? How are Kent armstrong PUPs?

With all this talk about necks bowing after gluing on fingerboards Im getting a little worried, especially since I am working on my first neck. I pondered using the carbon rods just as a safety measure from the get go but now I am seriously considering using them. I dont trust myself to be able to correct a backbow very well and I would like to limit the # of suprises that my current project will throw at me. Anyway, Has anyone used these in their necks and if so what are your thoughts? Stewmac sells the rods but at $10 an 18" length. Does anyone know where else I could get some? Thanks in advance.

That looks like a purlfing (sp) coupled with a cream binding. The multicolored stuff is usually broken up into small pieces to inlay properly as it wont bend very well. I think thats whats going on there.

The PU's in Jacks guitar are the origional single coild it came with in 64'. His sound comes from the fact that he uses an old Sears Silvertone amp as well as a Fender twin reverb. While you're not going to get the exact sound a humbucker in the bridge might get you close. Maybe a pair of P90's?

my two cents (american) would be to cut it with the jigsaw, give yourself quite a bit of playing room outside where you want it, then rasp/sand it down. to me, that work is worth less than $100 of my time, so i really don't mind doing that. plus, it makes me feel more connected to the finished product. it's got more of me in it. 

I was debating that method but I don't trust my ability to keep the sides of the neck straight and true. My luck one stroke with the rasp and I would have a nice indent inside my draw line. I figure I'll route about 1/8" outside the line and then do minimal sanding with a long flat sanding block. What do you think?

Hey, those look nice, thanks! That is about the price I was looking for. I mainly want one for planing fingerboards and necks to the correct widths. Which one would be better for that if any? What are the main differences between the 3 you choose? Thanks WWW!

Thanks for all the info. I think Im going to make a template, rough cut with the jigsaw and then route to final shape. Seems the most accurate way for me with the tools I have. Anyone used this method for cutting out a neck?

I am looking for a good hand plane to plane fretboards and necks and such. What kind do you all use? What should I look for? I dont want to spend $100.

Thanks for the help, I figured it wouldnt be a huge deal. The body is African Magogany and would be about $40 plus shipping.

I have the oppurtunity to purchase a tele style body that is cut to shate but has not been routed. I know that it is a better idea to do the routing before the body shape is cut out but is it that much more problematic to do it after the fact? I am concerned about the neck pocket. Thanks guys!

Hyunsu, what are you working on now? I love your guitars. Have you finished the Les Paul type one yet?

I am doing a back routed cavity for 4 pots on the airlinge guitar Im working on. I was going to use standard size pots but the body has a kind of cove routing around the edges and the cavity would end up being VERY close to this route leaving me more or less no room for a cover. My question is weather or not using mini pots (about the size of a penny) will give me an inferior setup as far as sound and what not. Usually I see these for about $1 or 2 more than the standard sized ones but Brian has them for like $1.50! Stewmac has them for almost $5. Is this what I would want? Thanks!

P.S. What does CTS mean in refering to pots?

Trust me, I am no pro! This will be my first real project. I think I saw a place that has a 3/4" binding, maybe stewmac. Warmoth has 1/4" pearloid binding. I may give that a go, maybe double it up to get a 1/2" strip. I plan on doing it black instead of the red. As far as a pickguard goes Im just going to make a template and then using a 45 degree chamfer bit route out the guard. Warmoth sells pickguard blanks in a ton of colors.

Im just making a wood solidbody. Probably alder or I have some magogany I might use. As far as wiring im gonn do the 4 knobs at the top but no master volime at the bottom so a standard LP scheme will work, just substitute a fender 3 way swich for the 3 way toggle.

Nice choice! Im doing the same project myself!! It is kind of an odd instrument and I have had some definate questions rolling around in my head about how to work things out. My body shape drawing has gone through about 5 different variations alone but I think I have one set now. As far as pickups the originals are just single coils covered to look like humbuckers. Im just gonna use humbuckers myself. Also, the neck meets the body at like the 14 fret, Im just going to do mine at the 16th so I can use a standard neck plate. Im gonna use a standard tune-o-matic and stop tailpiece setup as in all my searching I have not found anything close to that kind of tailpiece. A couple of things to think about are the various routings of the body edges. Your pic shows well the cove route around the edges. Im gonna do probaly a 5/8' or so. Im also gonna route a rabbit and inlay a 1/2" binding around the center of the sides to simulate whatever the did to cover the seam on the origional. Lots of other stuff to think about depending on how accurate you want to be. Let me know if you have any other questions. Ive been beating my brain for a month or twon on this one! Good luck and keep us (ME ) posted!

Pay $15 or $20 and get an hour or two workshop hire at your local technical school, or wood work craft school

I didn't know that tech schools did that. I'll look into it, thanks.

HMMMMMM, considering the possibility of tear out and what not maybe the investment is warranted. Somthing to think about, thanks!

Thats a sweet looking body!!!! Very nice job!!!