jay5

Sweet! I got a valve jr. head that I'm currently building a 2 X 10 cab for. I am already looking for a new amp project. This might be it! $140! Where was the chassis from? What was the other board you were talking about?

I have 2 sets of MIM Strat pickups w/ white covers. These are new and were simply swapped out for a different setup. They have plenty of lead wire and are ready to go.

$20 per set shipped

One sold, thanks verhoevenc!

An RO sander generally has a soft pad and moves at much lower rpm's. You MIGHT be able to do a little shaping but it would take much longer. An angle grinder is actually a pleasure to carve with.

What was your method for doing the carve? Pretty sweet!

The concensus (sp?) on that particular creation is that it seems a bit flimsy. I wouldnt use somthing like that with so many moving parts and so much wood. What are you trying to acomplish? Myka built a cool overhead fixture for carving necks.

I've built that myka jig before, but am unhappy with the adjustability of it. That said, I'm going to build another with T-slots, special hold downs from grizzly, and built in steel rules for better accuracy and alignment. I'll make a tut for your thread when I get around to that, duff.

Have you seen xlr8's take on the jig? Just as you described.

Word is that Bob wasnt happy with the work coming out of the Fender/Benedetto workshop. He would only go out there a few times a month either. I seriously doubt they are looking for amatures to come work there and I doubt that Bob will be on hand much either, but I could be wrong. I imagine he is just trying to start up a similar operation where others do the work and he oversees things. Still would be a cool opportunity though,

If you fret first the frets themselves will protect the fretboard against dings if you are sloppy while carving

I wouldnt rely on that one bit. You'll just tear the hell out of the fret ends. At my work we fret necks after they are carved and sanded, but before finishing. When carving a neck I stay off the fingerboard until the final round of sanding. That way I can maintain the taper of the neck. You can generally do all the necessary blending with 220 grit, works for me at least.

and wouldn't turn down people who want to buy something from him.

I wonder how often that actually happens? I mean really.........

I don't know the answer to your question, but if you have been doing repairs for 10 years you should probably know already. Have you ever done a full scallop before? How long did it take?

Wow, that's quite the arsenal you are trying to put together there Have you looked into the Shopfox pin router from Grizzly? It got pretty favorable reviews in a WW mag a while back, seems like plenty for the hobby builder. I doubt you will find anyone around here who has any experience with that particular Grizzly unit. On a side note, we have a Rockwell pin router at work were looking to offload Straight outta the 50's! BTW, where are you putting all this stuff?

Yeah, the bandsaw was also free. I asked if they would sell it but they told me to just take it. I just got some new blades, cleaned it up and it runs great. I am building a new table for it and it should be all I need for my home shop. I also scored a big ass piece of aluminum with a 12" radius milled in it for radiusing fingerboards. Nice and heavy and about 24" long, pretty sweet. I work at a small guitar manufactrer here in NC.

I voted for rancid but Im a huge Tiger Army fan.

I cut it using a bandsaw. I cant imagine that a 3/8"X1/8" (or whatever) piece is going to have any real effect on your tools as a hobby builder. I think I cut a good 20 pieces at a time and have never experienced any real noticable dulling of the blade. You figure it probably takes 1/4 or the blade or somthing to cut a piece. I'm not arguing that it isnt a tough material, but I wouldnt worry about it messing up your tools. Hack saw blades are only a few bucks

We shoot poly at work, I'll have to find out exactly what (if anything) is compatable with that in terms of the alchohol based stuff. Drak, how much of any one color do you generally mix up at one time? I have about 10 lbs of figured maple scraps that I want to start destroying. I figure this stuff was cheap enough that I could use it to establish some good "formulas" and work from there.

Toddler, I scored this a week ago

We have been doing some clean-up at work recently and my boss came across a bunch of different dyes that he had that we wouldnt be using anymore. He gave me about a dozen different powders, some of the Stewmac stuff, LMI stuff and some other brand (Woodcraft sells it, I forget the name). Anyway, I figured I would have a go practicing with them. My question is, as I recieved both water soluable stuff and alchohol soluable, which type do you all prefer? What do you like to mix the alchohol soluable dyes with? I realize that the water based dyes will rais the grain, but are there any other pros and cons you all have come across?

I've never had trouble cutting carbon fiber.

Well youre gonna need some sort of cutting tool. A coping saw is about $5 if you want to use one of those. A

drill does you no good cutting out a body.

its only when you measure it that its apparent.

Thats where it matters. Just trash it, or keep it to practice inlaying or somthing. A fretboard is cheap in the grand scheme of things.

You would be suprised how many "Name Brand" parts are either made by Jin Ho or Sung Il. All the Wilkinson stuff is made by Jin Ho. We use the "Wilkinson" compensated tele bridge on our guitars at work and they are great bridges. I have used Jin Ho (and Sung Il) built tuners before and they are great units. Jackson and ESP (I think) all use Jin Ho built tuners as standard.

Check out M_A_T_T's build log HERE. He has some AWESOME info on all the aspects of a violin build, including the finishing.

The router bit ended up slipping

That is a VERY VERY bad thing to have happen on a router of any kind. Can you imagine what would have happened if it came loose? Is the CNC enclosed?

What kind of CNC? It all depends, but yeah you need a CAD drawing and then translate it into a CAM program (not always G-code).

I have a 10" radius block as well as a 12" block for sale. Both are the 8" lengths and are brand new. I have access to a swing sander now so these arent really needed anymore. I will take 15$ each shipped (US/Canada) or 25$ shipped for both. PM or Email.

~Josh

Sweet link Frenzy!!!!