HerrHerron
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And something I still don't understand: Before staining the neck I dampen the wood to raise the grain, and then apply a wet stain... but I thought most of finishing a neck was to keep it protected from moisture? Or is that just a long-term ambient humidity issue? And the PG Tutorial says wipe the stain with the grain, but if the fret are already on, that'll cause a problem. Anyone had experience with staining over frets or with staining against the grain? Any tips?
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OK thanks both of you. That answers my question. I'm gonna go with a light stain and then that 2-part automotive poly. I don't have any spraying equipment, so I might as well go to an auto paint place anyway.
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So exactly which environments make a nitro lacquer yellow? If I wanted a genuine vintage look, could I use nitro and intentionally yellow it for a while, and then keep in in a non-yellowing environment? Or are we talking decades here?
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I'm getting conflicting information on the internet, so I'd like to make a thread just for this topic. I'm building a guitar with an all-maple neck, and I'd like it to be just a little bit vintage-yellow. Some websites say nitrocellulose lacquer yellows over time, and poly doesn't. Other sites say the exact opposite! Or is it both? I'd also like to know how long it takes to see the ambered effect. I want my neck to be just barely yellow, so I wouldn't want to lightly dye it and then have the finish add onto that for an extreme yellow. There are enough threads about nitro vs poly, I'm just interested in the yellowing aspect of each. Thanks, Drew