YetzerHarah

lots of lumber places online (although he's right that local is usually cheaper, if not cheaper & better)

I've had good experiences w/:

gilmerwood.com
cookwoods.com

Hey man, love the build, thanx for sharing.

I've been using the WD rods w/o problem, I haven't tried too many others for comparison though. (They're better than the Warmoth rod I tried on a friend's recommendation, & waaaaay better than those damn StewMac hotrods)

From their website:
width of rod at ends = .235 inches
depth of rod at ends = .36 inches

fretted->milled->beveled->leveled->crowned->polished

I guess I have to make up my mind on the electronics now so I can do the routing. I wanted to a p90 sized humbucker in the bridge & p90s in the middle and neck controlled by a Free-Way Switch, acting as if the 2 p90s are one humbucker, but reading the reviews I'm more than a little paranoid about using that switch. I guess I could do the same idea and just use a rotary switch. Or I could just do a p90 sized humbucker in the bridge w/ a push pull coil split on the volume & then just a p90 in the neck. I don't know. Suggestions?

I wouldn't say it's the most important part of building a guitar...

....but I wouldn't say that it's meaningless either.

put some ferrofliuid on your pickup & you'll see the differences in magnetic field strength (saran wrap it first if it's not a sealed pickup or you'll never get all of it off)

Hitone did something similar recently:
http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46750-12-string-gretsch-tele/?hl=hitone

Strings through the body shouldn't be an issue as long as you don't hollow out too much, or brace appropriately

Pickups are up to you, the only concern is ideally all strings should be over the polls

I'm all for pointy too.

If you can't find an epoxy that you like, I'd just stick w/ titebond, I've used it many times & never had any problems with it that weren't my own damn fault.

I still need to get me a set of those Ramelson sets like you recommended Scott, probably next time I visit my parents back in the states.

I can't say that no one's ever done a two way truss rod in a skunk stripe, but I can tell you that traditionally they are one way just a metal bar threaded on end w/ an anchor on the other (only exerting force towards the fretboard), & I think it'd be a bad idea to do a 2 way rod in that design (both because the pressure on the skunk stripe & because 2 way rods usually sit in strait, rather than curved slots)

I missed where you talked about rotating it sideways, I see no reason why it wouldn't work, but I don't really see a benefit either. Honestly, like I said earlier, I think the best thing to do is the make a fretted plank long enough to put a bridge on one end & tuners on the other (ideally out of something hard and cheap like unfigured hard maple), string it up & see (if it doesn't implode &) how much you like it.

I'm not saying don't try it out if you want to, but you do understand the inherent problem with that design: The strength of a glue joint is directly proportional to it's surface area.

Here, I drew you some cheesy free-body-diagrams to illustrate the problem

If you really want to do it, I'd make a plank w/ frets, string it up, & see how it goes

Are you manually rounding the edges on that resin, or is that curve just from the surface tension?

Just ran out of fretwire

FML

Pics are just examples, not necessarily the model/setup I'd want

Les Godfrey:

Wes Lambe:

Beardsell:

Vik:

& of course a pair of Korina '58s

https://anonfiles.com/file/0178bb77dc79aad500c8a09c2d480f54

yay for google

The others are fairly close, but the 9th fret is about 4mm off center, & #1 is slightly rotated counter-clockwise. I know I should just get over it (or better yet get a CNC!). ScottR what do you think of breaking up the extra flower to use the petals for 19-21-24?

On the 9th fret I tried a different way of marking it, & well I should have known well enough to try it on scrap first. Back to just drawing around the inlay with a sharp pencil. Anyway, I feel like throwing the whole thing in the fire, but I doubt that'll happen...

I think if you don't quench it, you're going to have a hard time keeping a polish with strings rubbing against it, but who knows I've never tried it

If you fully anneal it to work on it (& bend it to match the radius of the fretboard) then quench it before putting it back in, I think you can do it w/o a problem.

Not a replacement for that book, but some further reading if you want it:

If you're looking for something other than standard scale, one of these'll help w/ fret & bridge position:

http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/

http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator

Neal Moser has a great post on neck angle (I'm not sure if you have to log into his forum to see that):

http://mcs.acidpit.org/showthread.php?31-Building-a-neck-thru-guitar

Haven't had much time lately.

about 1/2 the inlays in, rough leveled & wetted for the pic:

I really need more practice inlaying

2nd the plug and re-drill but,,

Some of the roller bridges have fore-aft adj. slots at the height adj. posts. (might be enough to cheat)?

Some are locked in with a set screw.

Have the budget one from Allparts.Only use it for set-ups. It has a good range.

JM

Agreed, I'd see if one of these has enough play to get away with it:

If not I'd get a wider bridge like one of these or an old Gibson harmonica & hope it covers most of the filled hole:

That's a very cool setup you've got going there

Well that binding certainly is there. Customer's choice?

Believe me, there's days I feel like I shouldnt be allowed to touch power tools.

**** happens. It's how we learn from this **** that separates us from the idiots.

Power tools is generous, there're days that I feel like I shouldn't be trusted w/ plastic kindergarten scissors