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Everything posted by YetzerHarah

  1. I saw a place called "Mike & Mike's Guitar Bar," advertising that they do that. I think it can look good for a theme build like something that Pfiester or Dismal Ax would do, but I feel like just slapping a record on your guitar because you can is sort of tacky.
  2. I think I might have finally gotten used to the idea of that shelf.
  3. I'm passing through Sweden & visiting my cousins there for a couple days, it's not first time, but I could use some recommendations for guitar shops to check out (anywhere from Jarna to Stockholm) if anyone has them, or other assorted stuff that I should see. It's my 3rd time there, so I've already seen a lot of the touristy junk.
  4. I said double bookmatch for a 4 piece top... that would yield 16"x20" more that enough.
  5. It's thick enough that you could double book match it & see how it'd look as a 4 piece top (probably for a solid body so you don't have structural issues), you're going to have to slice it up anyway unless you're going to use it as a carving block.
  6. Hell hath no fury like nitro's scorn. It actually seems to following that black growth ring, which makes me wonder if it's being caused by something absorbed by the tree when it was growing.
  7. Depending on the damage, & how bad the previous repairs are, you may need to scarf on a new headstock. If you're going to do that anyway you could scarf one on with the volute attached. If it's not bad enough to need that type of repair already, then I'd leave it, or fix the old repairs.
  8. That looks great! I'm not in love with the unmatched look of the copper, but on the other hand theremins are f'ing awesome, so maybe it'll grow on me.
  9. Unfigured 4/4 maple is cheap (& what a lot if not most of the classic era Richs are made of (unfigured maple, Mal told me they ordered 10/4 not 4/4)), glue up something like this & you'll have a great guitar (w/o any questions when it comes to stability), & it'll look good enough that you won't even have to paint it black (it'll be a choice, not a necessity): That's just my opinion though
  10. You're not going to find many fretboards that are stiffer than a well seasoned piece of ebony. That doesn't mean you can't do quite a bit to build a stiffer neck, such as: use thicker fretboard quartersawn wood laminated neck (whether it's from the same board w/ the grain direction flipped, or if you decide to add stripes of a harder wood like ebony or rosewood) CF reinforcements Balance is a harder issue to conquer (although getting a 3" leather strap often gets rids of that problem). Since you're planning on refinishing anyway you can add fishing weights to the body (or your strap for that
  11. Nice. Did you find that korina בארץ?
  12. I'd just darken it w/ a bit of lemon oil, I'll think you'd regret blacking it out.
  13. Also, either make sure that it's kiln or air dried, or be prepared to dry it.
  14. lots of lumber places online (although he's right that local is usually cheaper, if not cheaper & better) I've had good experiences w/: gilmerwood.com cookwoods.com
  15. Here it is: Ok, so admittedly it's not the greatest thing ever. However I'm still happy to see something new & different.
  16. I've been using the WD rods w/o problem, I haven't tried too many others for comparison though. (They're better than the Warmoth rod I tried on a friend's recommendation, & waaaaay better than those damn StewMac hotrods) From their website: width of rod at ends = .235 inches depth of rod at ends = .36 inches
  17. fretted->milled->beveled->leveled->crowned->polished I guess I have to make up my mind on the electronics now so I can do the routing. I wanted to a p90 sized humbucker in the bridge & p90s in the middle and neck controlled by a Free-Way Switch, acting as if the 2 p90s are one humbucker, but reading the reviews I'm more than a little paranoid about using that switch. I guess I could do the same idea and just use a rotary switch. Or I could just do a p90 sized humbucker in the bridge w/ a push pull coil split on the volume & then just a p90 in the neck. I don't know. S
  18. I wouldn't say it's the most important part of building a guitar... ....but I wouldn't say that it's meaningless either. put some ferrofliuid on your pickup & you'll see the differences in magnetic field strength (saran wrap it first if it's not a sealed pickup or you'll never get all of it off)
  19. Hitone did something similar recently: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46750-12-string-gretsch-tele/?hl=hitone Strings through the body shouldn't be an issue as long as you don't hollow out too much, or brace appropriately Pickups are up to you, the only concern is ideally all strings should be over the polls
  20. I can't say that no one's ever done a two way truss rod in a skunk stripe, but I can tell you that traditionally they are one way just a metal bar threaded on end w/ an anchor on the other (only exerting force towards the fretboard), & I think it'd be a bad idea to do a 2 way rod in that design (both because the pressure on the skunk stripe & because 2 way rods usually sit in strait, rather than curved slots) I missed where you talked about rotating it sideways, I see no reason why it wouldn't work, but I don't really see a benefit either. Honestly, like I said earlier, I think th
  21. I'm not saying don't try it out if you want to, but you do understand the inherent problem with that design: The strength of a glue joint is directly proportional to it's surface area. Here, I drew you some cheesy free-body-diagrams to illustrate the problem
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