JoryNad

jay answer my question lol

yes i have! and abandoned the fiberglass body till my next guitar project...unfortunate but neccisairy, hey jay a question, are you doing the routing all around the edge of the body? like how it drops down? a trim i suppose its called?

k heres a question, do i need the neck to cut the body shape?

they shouldn't be the same? they look different to me

alright heres the neck i just purshaced from my airline copy!

i have a question that is related to this topic so rather than start a new one ill just add it here, lets say i made a body outta pine only to make a mold (real body is gonna be resoglas) would there be any problem in this, i wouldn't have to worry about it shrinking over time because it would only use it for like 24 hours, then it saves me money caus i wouldn't have to spend $50 on some alder just to make a master body for a mold...well any ideas would be great

hey man that is a sweet guitar, i played one in an edmonton vintage guitar store, and i own a harmony rocket, same PU soo sweet

hey hey its me again, and i have a questions, i was in a vintage guitar store in vancouver the other day and i noticed there was a blue airline (jack white model) copy, anyone know of such a thing, it was a solid body, and its name was wierd can't remember it but the first letter was a an upside down fender "f" and it was not the www.myrareguitars.com copy, any help would be great, and to update those of you who care about my project, and airline copy, i am going to get some alder tommorow and begin cutting the body, i will try to take photos! with all due respect Jory Nadwidny

how much are we talking here, caus my parents are paying lol so really i can at least give it a try, im doing both wood a fiberglass, ill make a mould of the wood body once its done and then layer in the fiberglass and continue work on the wood body. and my grandpa works in auto body and has used fiberglass on many occaisons as has my father. thank you for your concern tho

yea im gonna go with a wooden tune-o-matic, and a trapeze tail piece for authentisity's sake

ha! well thanks for the encouragement

no i need them desperatly , so anyone who owns one please help!

Firstly you will need the basic elements ? these are the fibreglass matting and the resin as well as the chemical catalyst. Follow the instruction when applying the resin to the matting, but usually this depends on the amount of humidity in the atmosphere for the fibreglass to gel or set properly. Do not attempt to work with fibreglass in a very cold environment as the setting process could take a very long time. There are two basic methods of working in this medium. One can build up a sculpture by directly modelling the fibreglass onto an armature, or one can cast a sculpture made in another medium into fibreglass. The second casting method is by far the most common and this is the method that will be followed here. Make sure that you have a clear working space. Have the fibreglass matting cut into squares of about 3 by 3 inches in size. Make sure that you have your resin handy and thirdly, the catalyst that will initiate the chemical reaction and form the hard medium. You should already have a plaster mould of a sculpture that you have completed, ready for casting. Finally, a few ordinary house paintbrushes, old cloth and a bottle of acetone should be handy. Preparing the mould for casting. We will presume that you have a plaster mould of your sculpture. There are different techniques for working with moulds made from different materials, but plaster is the most common material used for making moulds. The reason for preparing the mould is to ensure that the fibreglass can easily be separated form the plaster after it has set. One can buy a number of industrial separating liquids made especially for this process, but the cheapest, and most effective way of preparing the mould is by using liquid wax. Liquid wax can be bought at any supermarket. Apply three coats of liquid wax to the surface of the mould, waiting for each to dry before applying the next. Make sure that you do not use this brush for the application of the resin the next stages. Applying the first coat of resin Once the plaster mould is prepared, take a tin can or any other steel container and mix an amount of resin that will cover the interior of the mould. This is the first coat and should be fairly thick. You can buy a special form of resin called Gel Coat which has a gel like consistency and which will not fall back form corners or curves in the mould. Before applying your first coat, make sure that you add the catalyst to the resin. The amount of catalyst depends on the manufacturers instructions. Mix the catalyst well into the resin and start applying the resin to the interior of the mould, being careful to cover every inch of the surface. Leave this first layer to begin the setting process. Resin, which has been exposed to its catalyst, will dry very quickly and will harden any brush you are using beyond repair. This is where the acetone comes in. Take another tin can and fill it with acetone and wash all brushes that come into contact with catalysed resin in this liquid. Once the resin has begun hardening then you can apply your first layer of chopped glass matting. Take the squares that you have cut and place them over the surface of the mould. Then dip a brush into the resin/catalyst mixture and stipple the layers of matting into the resin. The process called stippling simply meant to force the matting into the resin with the pointed ends of the brush, usually by jabbing down into the mould. The point is that the glass matting must be saturated and have a close contact with the resin, as it is the combination of these two elements which makes the strong fibreglass. Continue this process until you have at least five layers of resin and glass matting. It is advisable to use at least 10 layers for larger sculptures. Leave the cast to dry for at least one day to ensure that the fibreglass has properly cured or has set completely. Please note that it may take a longer period of time for the resin to cure if the weather conditions are cold and humid. The final stages Once the cast has cured, you can remove the plaster mould. This is usually accomplished by chipping away at the plaster exterior until the fibreglass cast is revealed. Be patient with this process, as large sculptures may take some time when removing the plaster mould. Once all the plaster is removed, one is left with the final product- the fibreglass sculpture. Sanding or angle grinding may further refine this. The finished sculpture will also accept acrylic or oil paint as a finish. how east does that sound..and cheap! plus i will have the wood mould to make into a hollow wood body version, and if both works perhaps ill sell the wood body! any takers lol

ha! yea it will be garage work so i don't die or become addicted to "the glass" lol as for th eitch i will weare the proper protection, always remember "play safe"!

you want to make a bigsby?!? good luck and let me know when youv give nup lol, yea id try buying on ebay, you could try and make one but you'd need some serious metal working skills aswell as the neccesair tools ie. METAL FORGE lol jk but i wouldn't try it if i were you

yea i know im keeping in touch with the guy thats heading the reproduction

u mean this one all i know is that its a Norma..old japanese i think its a Burns copy here is what its copying and that company is still in buisness i think so specs and all that should be readilly available

ha!

yea i guess but famous musicians used to use those in the 60'd i know that the bassist from the ventures used this only it was the bass version

thats caus they suck lol mind you it because of jack white that i saw the airlie and now i am in love lol

yea take a look at these my fav is the second and last ones

bah i have just drawn some stuff and have to get htem printed big, im gettgin all the supplys in the next 2 weeks, and i mean everything..my parents are paying for it! birthday present! lol and jay iv decided to make a semi hollow wood but once the body is made and routed im going to make a mould and attempt a fiberglass body b/c it would be soo much cooler! and lighter, as for the sample written on the inside i believe it was a proto type that photo is of the top halve, you can see the shittiest wiring job ever lol heres a photo of the top http://www.ronsthings.com/ry250.jpg if you correspond that with the bottom i think the neck problems clear up you can see the two bolt holes in the wood center is it just me or is that a very shallow neck joint, perhaps thsi thing had a very thin neck thats all i can speculate

for those out there building an airline replica....i know theres only like two inlcuding myself i have a pic of the interior of the fiberglass body here.... and thats all folks

my dad's friend is a metal worker and i was wondering what would be need to make a tailpiece, like a trapieze style, what factors need to be accounted for, im thinking distance of the string holes, and well that all i got thanks guys

anyone know of any rickenbacker 330 plans??? looking at possible projects thanks