gpcustomguitars

Some more progress! Also, some part were ordered for the telecaster this thread is supposed to be about so I hope to post some progress on that too, soon! Firstly, routed the truss rod channel using the straight side of the neck blank as a guide, and then glued the missing piece on: 1-IMG_20180621_202642 by Goran P, on Flickr Then, some quick planing to be able to attach the headstock template for routing the shape, 1-IMG_20180622_193407 by Goran P, on Flickr And after that, routing most of the headstock to 17mm. I'm planing to get to the final thickness on the sander while shaping the transition from headstock to fretboard. 2-IMG_20180622_194533 by Goran P, on Flickr I mentioned a while ago that I want to learn to plane properly, so I'm using every opportunity 3-IMG_20180622_200244 by Goran P, on Flickr ...so many clamps, so little space... 4-IMG_20180623_142201 by Goran P, on Flickr Routing the sides flush: 5-IMG_20180624_120031 by Goran P, on Flickr 6-IMG_20180624_130110 by Goran P, on Flickr I hope to do some more work on this later today with the spindle sander, and to finish the TR access with dremel sanding drum.

Found the tool that gave me the idea!

Here's a more detailed drawing. I got the idea because the original tool is actually making tapered tenons, meaning the tenon flanges out from the constant size to full width of the material used. I'm not sure my quick geometry is completely correct for the cutter, as I'm writing from work, but I will try to do a mockup, using a piece of cardboard to determine the correct cutter shape. My first application worked fine when used at higher speeds, but that was thin plastic, so using lathe logic, larger diameter material=lower speed. I think this would work with some prep tinkering. So the knob would sort of plug the cutter when done. Drilling the hole trough in some 1" hardwood stock, reaming the first taper, and probably routing the last flange? A piece of mild steel would probably hold the edge long enough for a set of knobs/proof of concept.

What I had in mind was using a hand held drill. It would work like a pencil sharpener of sorts, similar tools are used in making of stick furniture for shaping the ends into tenons, can't remember the brand name, just that they go onto the drill, and the material is fixed, and here the material is on the drill, and the "sharpener" is held in a vice. I used the same method for making a simple rod using just a hand held drill: 1-IMG_20170901_184019 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20170901_184118 by Goran P, on Flickr

Here it is - I used something simpler to make some rods for the side dots on a recent fretless build. Can't tell what would the possible problems be without actually trying it out (which I probably will, I'm starting to twitch already ). I guess that the material shoudn't be cut cross-grained. Hope this helps! Goran

Hello! Beautiful detail work I saw a simple way to simulate a machinist lathe using a drill press and a table vise to hold the cutter, advancing the material onto the cutter by pressing down the drill press. Material held on the chuck, of course. Works fine for plexy. Since it is not an option, perhaps a simple round tennon-cutter jig would do? Material held in the hand drill, pushing into a sort of a pencil sharpener thingy, cutter being either a chisel or a spare plane knife or piece of steel. I'll try to post a drawing in a few minutes.

A really small update...poor light for taking a pic. I've glued the missing part of headstock on with some overhang from both sides, so after roughly cutting it with jigsaw, I've planed it down flat from the back side, and flat-enough-for-template from the front. Back of the headstock is close to final dimension, but the front is sloping down somewhat, so it will get cleaned when I thickness it to size. I need to fine tune the headstock template, as it is slightly too wide at the nut, and route the truss rod channel next. 1-IMG_20180619_203136 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20180619_203419 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20180619_204807 by Goran P, on Flickr

Thanks a lot Andy! Also, I got to play with ash, which is also an refreshment after quite a few prevailingly cherry builds. And, this is officially my first full Fender-like build ever

Looking forward to developments! Are you planning to carve the plates?

Again, had some snippets of shop time over the weekend...routed the electronics cavity to final depth with no problems, I developed a habit to use step depth of 2mm. Resawed the neck blank on one side, other is still needed flat for the routing of the tr channel, and routed/planed the blank flat. 01-IMG_20180615_195843 by Goran P, on Flickr 02-IMG_20180615_195852 by Goran P, on Flickr 03-IMG_20180615_202013 by Goran P, on Flickr 04-IMG_20180616_200405 by Goran P, on Flickr I don't want to nibble the pickguard for the tr access, and I don't have a spokewheel tr nut at hand, so I decided to do this. Centerline is true, btw, just the outside lines are off... 06-IMG_20180617_190612 by Goran P, on Flickr Drilled by hand to depth, will clean up with a dremel sanding drum before glueing. 08-IMG_20180617_192202 by Goran P, on Flickr The heartwood in this plank emerged here, so I had to add a piece, same plank so I hope it will be a nice match. Forgot to take a pic , it's still clamped. 09-IMG_20180617_192835 by Goran P, on Flickr And the fretboard, slightly more yellowish acero parana, with the truss rod. I think it will be easily accessible this way. 10-IMG_20180617_201923 by Goran P, on Flickr That's it so far, I could start finishing the body while working on the neck. I was looking into Poly spray cans, I can get Rust-oleum ones here, does anyone have any experience with them? Neck will probably we true oil.

No time for shop for now, but did manage 5 mins to make a routing template "plug" to define the electronics cavity shape. I took off a little from the bridge pup cavity to widen the space for all the wires going trough. Hopefully will use it today... It will be held in place by some double-sided tape. 1-IMG_20180613_181640 by Goran P, on Flickr

...and another small session: 1-IMG_20180611_185545 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20180611_190458 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20180611_192154 by Goran P, on Flickr The first pic shows the shallow route all around, just moving the 90-degree template around. 6mm deep was enough. Then with no template, used the existing routes to get the final depth of 19mm. The electronics triangle I plan to deepen to 30mm in the next session. Mainly for the switch, but also to lighten the body some more. I'm starting to really like this shape, nice, sorta small, reasonably light, kinda like a strat but not really Not in the pics, drilled the hole for the jack. Forstner was really slow, so I switched to largest drill bit I have, that is 20mm. Still to decide is whether to shape the heel as on the originals, or to go with standard shape/hardware...

Definitely! Had a nice morning yesterday - routed the body template for the bridge well and routed the body trough, and proceeded to route the spring cavity on the back. I'm sure this is done a lot, but still would like to say that having a 90deg angle template is really handy for such rectangular routes. I left 4mm thickness under the top in the wider part of the bridge well. I hope that is enough, the body is 41mm thick now. I should route the pup cavity next, and it could be 19mm deep. 1-IMG_20180609_202135 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20180609_202539 by Goran P, on Flickr .3-IMG_20180609_205602 by Goran P, on Flickr 4-IMG_20180610_103921 by Goran P, on Flickr 5-IMG_20180610_104921 by Goran P, on Flickr 6-IMG_20180610_105441 by Goran P, on Flickr 7-IMG_20180610_110116 by Goran P, on Flickr 8-IMG_20180610_111353 by Goran P, on Flickr

Yesterday's session: 1-IMG_20180607_211028 by Goran P, on Flickr Managed to route the neck pocket, my neck template fits almost too snug, but it will be just right after some sanding. I took my time, but this woodworking-under-the-tree-in-the-afternoon thing is really nice in the summer. One of the shop lamps is hanging from the tree when it gets dark Vibrato top route should be next.

Just found a definition of their concept as "a circuit that uses a buffer for the dummy coil and the output of the buffer is used as the "ground" for the single coil ". That would explain the trimmer visible on the top of their unit, to adjust the unity gain. Sounds simple enough, but think I'll probably go with old school stuff. Also, I would have to solve how it would work with the middle pup as it is reversed. Here's the circuit I've found, reported to work, trimpots are connected to individual pup grounds: bufferedDummy.pdf

I found some pics of the device, and it does look like a inductor coil of sorts, but the patent shows some additional active circuitry. I was hoping to use one of those sewing machine bobbins for this, but perhaps it's not really needed. I'll probably just go with good shielding.

Yes, they have a Music Man circuit for hum canceling in most of their models - there is a patent online, but obviously not very detailed info. If nothing pops up, I'll just wire up a regular circuit, with treble bleed, which I've started to like recently. Adding a always-on switch for the bridge pu seems like a good idea for now. From what I figured, it works by emitting hum in phase, which then cancels itself out with existing hum. So, the singles retain their presence, but it's nice and quiet. Another small session, both reliefs are done: 1-IMG_20180604_210725 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20180604_210733 by Goran P, on Flickr I need to route the neck pocket, vibrato hole from the top and the pup cavities next. I'll add a hole in the template for the bridge well, but no separate template for the pups, as the route is fairly straight lined, so just some strips. I think I already have the template for the back route that will fit. I think I'll go with the tele style neck end, flat, not round.

BTW, I was unable to find any info on the actual circuit for this model, it seems to have an active hum cancelling...does anyone have any experience with this, a schematic would be very appreciated! I'd like to go with 3 singles, V and T pots and a 5-way switch, and add a treble bleed and a bridge-always-on switch.

Finished the arm rest by planing. Making a sled for the router seemed to be a lot of boring work, and this was a nice exercise. This is a pic from the very start, forgot to take an after pic. Made sure it was all flat by going over it with orbital sander first, and vibrating sander second. Cup of coffee obligatory 1-IMG_20180603_114219 by Goran P, on Flickr Now I should start on the relief cut on the back, and start on the neck.

A small update from my summer shop. I have routed out the shape (no tearout!!!) and sanded the sides, then rounded the edges, and re-sanded mostly to remove some router burns. I've marked the area to be removed on the top. Still thinking how to remove the bulk of it, planing, sureform or rasps, but I think I'll start with a router and some angled rails from scrap. This has been a clean build so far, so I think I would prefer clean machined straightness this time. I finished a headstock template, and will probably use it combined with my tele template for the neck to trim it to size on the sides. This piece of maple has a fault I think I will avoid barely, and I'll glue a missing bit after I've used the side to route the TR channel. 2-IMG_20180601_211607 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20180601_211620 by Goran P, on Flickr 1-IMG_20180601_211552 by Goran P, on Flickr 4-IMG_20180601_211659 by Goran P, on Flickr 5-IMG_20180601_211938 by Goran P, on Flickr

You could bypass both main difficulties in constructing this type of guitar by making two full wood frames for the sides, I think I left it about an inch wide. Glue those on a center block, planed and shaped for all the angles on top/back as per your plans, preferably with some hardwood dowels as the glueing surface is not that big. I was able to glue 4mm poplar plywood on, conforming to all surfaces with no problems at all. Use a lot of clamps and a few nails for reference points, and later sand/route the hangover, route the binding channel etc... I don't have much pics of the process, but this might help: IMG_20161001_154103 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161027_202441 by Goran P, on Flickr I did it backwards, but you can glue a veneer strip around the frame and make it look much like a standard 335. IMG_20161013_073722 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161027_202318 by Goran P, on Flickr I strung it up, and now I'm too lazy to remove the strings and actually install the pickups, but it plays nicely acoustically, it stands ready by the couch, so the method works OK. A friend wants one, so I'll be repeating the process sometime in future. Hope this helps!

Roughly cut before routing to shape, one small bit of width missing, being glued on on this pic. Need to change the jig saw bit...everything smells like roasted coffee in the yard Btw, this is just in front of the shop door, nicer under the wallnut then in the shop now, as we have a steady +-30c these days. 1-IMG_20180528_195340 by Goran P, on Flickr Found some tweed, this was a first, I only used jeans and local tolex-like brands so far. Sounds OK as a cab, will add it it's own chassis soon. 1-IMG_20180527_114203 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20180527_114215 by Goran P, on Flickr

Thanks a lot Scott! My friend seems to think that his buying of a new flat should have some impact on this tele's schedule . Well, I'm having fun with little amps for now, with some help of my new associate she's a bit camera shy, but very friendly! 1-IMG-3ea77ab5302b1e1843887f94504f0a85-V by Goran P, on Flickr I've since added the ext cab jack on the smaller amp, and should test it with a real 2x12 Eminence Betas later today. Used the denim one a a cab to test it first, works fine. Also in the works, 2x4 combo somewhat looking as a Tweed Deluxe. Started covering it yesterday. It will actually have Gain and Volume knobs with on/off switch. I would like to add a 4x4 cab to this collection. 3-IMG-047f8157e7dfb6f5081120dcacaf8ff6-V by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG-abccaa02bb0e39ec5624c797de342ce3-V by Goran P, on Flickr 1-IMG_20180520_155718 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20180520_155727 by Goran P, on Flickr 4-IMG-ebcfa0b62af50cfe0d654b7eae2a3f4e-V by Goran P, on Flickr Accidentally in the pics, my new, old looking additional and portable workbench I've built recently!

Well, my friend is verrry slow with procuring the parts, but I'm filling the time with some electronics works of my own: this was redid, no preamp, straight to the PA, TDA 2030A, not too loud but nice sounding. 3-IMG_20180512_132629 by Goran P, on Flickr this is also done, but still missing the handle - it will get one later today. It's TDA8932. 5-IMG_20180515_202626 by Goran P, on Flickr and still in the works - a small head with jtm preamp, replacing 12x7's with jfet's, probably 2n5457's, followed with again, some chip amp, perhaps TDA 2050. No tone stack, just 2 vol 2 gain setup. 1-IMG_20180505_212033 by Goran P, on Flickr I've since decided what to do with remaining ash: 1-IMG_20180317_110822 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20180317_113446 by Goran P, on Flickr I have since finished the templates, so when I clear the table I will do some routing.

Just beautiful!