donbenjy

my gutiar teacher said WD40 would do the trick for dirty pots...but im replacing anyway, so i got lucky with the time my crap ones started to go

well, my parts have finally arrived for a pickup & hardware change and i was putting them all into the scratchplate. I got to putting the dual concentric pot and i can't get the knobs off the top to mount in the scratchplate!!! ARG! do i need an allen key small enoguh to fit the bolt or it that just for show? I don't have anything that small...really annoying me now!!! oh and with mounting things, i have 2 nuts, one locking washer & one washer that wont turn, I presume i put one nut, then the non-locking washer, then the scratchplate then the locking washer then the top nut? cheers edit: oh yeah, theres not really enough metal on the bottom of the pot for a common ground, where woudl be a sensbile place to put it instead?

sounds like a faulty connection or, more likely theres a short circuti somewhere?

i got charged....wait for it......$25 for a concentric pot!!!

what does a dumym coil even do? i presume just adds resistance to the circuit?

hey, i know theres not alot of FX talk round here; its either guitars or amps...but i was wondering if there wa an easy way to mod the Boss os2 to be true bypass and not zap the battery even when its not distorting? dont wanna be making extra circuits though

yeh i'd read the guitarnuts thing before,t hats what i was gonna follow if i do do it...i was prolly gonna sheild at least the scratchplate and if i can make good continuity betweent he body and scratchplate, ill have 1 less wire to remove when i take the scratchplate off int he future as i can groudn the bridge tot he cavity and the shielding will take it to the grounding

hey, with my new project (new pups, scratchplate) i was wonderinf if i shoudl bother with shielding my guitra? atm it has foil over the control area of the current scratchplate, and thats it. I will have a motherbucker and a P90 in it, but atm it has 3 stock SCs and i was thinking, seeing as its pretty much ok (unless i have full drive +high voulme, then i get a hum even in positions 2 and 4). should i bother with it, and to what extent? i was thinking just using ordinary tin foil with strong glue and making sure that layers have contact with screws or staples? if i put foil all over and come up onto the surface of the body, i wont need to put a ground wire out to the scratchplate as there will be contact between the foil on the plate and the foil on the body. does that make sense? obviously ground wire front of the vol pot and the bridge gets grounded into the body foil? is it actually worth it if i have no problems?

lol that was a nice les paul, i thinkh is custom mansons are better though! anyway, theres lots of FF schematics around the net if you were looking to build one. infact, if you pop over to the muse forums at board.muse.mu theres a thread in kit n tab where this guys making FF boards for about £40 without the casing i think! if you want fuzz, i'd definately check it out

yeh i thinkt he site is www.zvex.com then click FX and theres a video link somewhere

hmm what kidna of distortion are you looking for? and how much you willing to spend? ZVex custom effects do a circuitboard version of the fuzz factory (BEST fuzz on the market, not even gonan put imho, it just is ) that you can put into a guitar but its quite expensive- £200ish though. matt bellamy from muse has one in all his custom guitars, if you've heard any muse like plug in baby at the start, the feedbacky squeals are off the Fuzz factory and really easy to make, theres a knob for it otherwise, i might be tempted to get a boss DS-1 (£34ish) take the casing off and install that?

lol the guy i was email ran the shop and he'd emailed his tech people about 20 times but they didnt get back to him with a quote, so we thought it best to just order the parts and ill do it myself parts came up to $178.15 inc. pickguard, pots etc

woo thanks so much!!! might be a couple of wereks before i get the parts, im ordering from US so not sure how long it'll take but thanks!!! oh yeh, because the MB is so high output, im usign 2 volume controls, one for the P90 and 1 for the MB...i jsut put these in before the 3-way switch i guess?

they were posted on some other forums by someone who had done it. surely as the MB is high voltage it wont have a problem? so is that not a good idea then? i could just have it in phase then? with the front coil still reverse wired so it's out of phase with the P90? would this be harder to wire?

doesn't have to break the bank, some companies do send out free samples of a few caps etc. or you could check old circuitboards in dead electrical things and take them from there?

ok ill try and explain more comprehensively. I was in a rush last time so sorry if it was vague. ok here goes: the MB is wired to the 5 way super switch (yes, the stewmac one) for the following positions: 1- neckside coil, reverse phase wired 2- 2 "neck" coils, out of phase 3- all 4 coils* 4- 2 "bridge" coils, in phase 5- 3rd coil (if the one nearest the neck is 1) in phase. * the 4 coils have a switch to select parellel/series wiring- dpdt on/on the P90 is wired as normal and im using a LP style on/on/on switch for neck/both/bridge. What i was asking is, how do i wire the on/on switch for series/parellel so that it only changes it for the 3rd position on the switch? a diagram would be SO useful if you dont mind, i was gonan get a tech to do it cos of the switch bit i dont get (i AM capable of soldering and following a diagram though) but the tech people were takign too long to come up with a quote and i figured it faster to do it myself. good practice too.

*cough* bump*

it does sound extemely complicated im wondering if soem kind of active circuit might be better? not sure how feasible this would be, but it certainly seems simpler to me (but maybe because im not that hot on electronics but am on computers), if you used an active circuit (battery powered) and put some kind of programmable chip in to control the options, wire each pickup to a different analogue input... im only saying this ecause i find working with PCBs and chips alot more easy to comprehend than guitar circuitry that really confuses me at times, even with soem simple stuff

hey, im about to start putting a KA motherbucker and a P90 into my guitar and i pretty much have the wiring figured...there s afew things im not clear on though: im gonna have one option of the MB so that i have all 4 coils on and a want a toggle switch to switch between series and parellel wired. can anyone help me out with wiring a dpdt on/on switch for series/parellel on effectively 2 humbuckers? i only want it for one position of the 5 way super switch im using to switch between MB positions though, so should i split all the wires into 2, one to go to the toggle switch and the others to connect usually to the other 4 positions of the super switch? theres also the pickup selector....ill be using a 3 way on/on/on dpdt LP style mini toggle switch to select the pups...how do i wire it for standard neck/both/bridge wiring (i dont know cos thi sis my first project and im working with a strat, so im not used to tggle switches) also, im not sure what order i should wire things...im using a 5 way super switch for the motherbucker, and a mini LP style 3 way toggle switch for pickup selecting (P90, both, MB) can anyone help with the order i shoudl wire things? shoudl it be: "hot" pickup wire--->5 way super switch (for the MB)--->series/parellel switch (only for one position on the 5-way switch)--->pickup selector-->jack "ground" pickup wire--->vol pot----> jack the P90 will obviously be wired like a normal pup: "hot"---->3 way pickup selector--->jack "ground"--->vol pot--->jack i hope this is right... cheers in advance ben

well i could bu a fairly good amp if i saved up, but im only 16 and i thought this would be a cool project...the case if the main thing, so i could get a 3nd hand thing for cheaper i guess...was just looknig at my optinos really i do have an old 15W fender, if i kept the impedance and power rtatings the same, coudl i put a bigger speaker in?

hmm, well you could cut down on getting a 3pdt switch altogether actualyl, ive been really stupid thinking about it...if you wire one leg of the LED (remember it has a positive and negative side, dont burn it out by connecting the wrong leg) to the thing it's supposed to be showing thats on is parellel, then you could use a regular dpdt switch...sorry if that didnt make sense :S from switch<<<___C____>>>to rest of circuit |_L_| where C is the thing that will be turned on (i guess the stereo jack?) and L is the LED sorry, i cant really help with the stereo jack, well i could, but i have a eally weird problem understanding switch wiring so i cant help with that but anyway, you have the Left and Right signals going to the stereo jack right...well if you connect these to one position on the switch, with seperate connections for R and L then take them off 2 other lugs to the jack...then with the mom one, all you hae to do is connect L and R ontot he SAME lug and then take the outputs off the same lug and connect to the jack. sorry if this didnt make sense or i didnt understand you properly, i dont know too much about electronics, my teacher is completely USELESS!

hey, thanks for the feedback...but i dont think i made myself too clear...this is gonna have to be a pretty high power amp, for gigging, but not huge venues so i dont need somethin of a stack size...but im thinkin anythin above 30W SS kinda sound is what i need :S and i cant use tubes because its gonna be knocked about abit, i woudl fdefinately prefer a tube sound, bu5 not possible in my situation atm. the ICs, are these standard chips or picaxes which id need to program? im guessing a regular chip cos i cant see why id need to program a chip to amp sonething... anyway, i might try the princeton 65...unless anyone happens to have a spare old amp they dont use that they wouldn't mind selling off cheaply....tbh i just need the board and transformer, not the speaker or casing because they will be customised

oh yeh, sorry...wasn't thinking! erm...theres a good european site for ordering components for stuff, but i cant remember the name right now, ill try and find it though

hmm i THINK i understand this rightly. you can actualyl buy 3P3T switches which i think is what you need...they have 3 terminals(poles) and 3 pins (throws) which means you can have 3 circuits all on at once? hope this makes sense?

coool, thanks! errrrr, these boards look quite large well i could give it a try...they dont use chips do they? will thesesound like proper fender amps, or is there another factor involved?