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I thought fast fret was designed just to go on the strings to lube them. I think the idea is kinda to get the feel of elixer strings, ive tried it and dont like it. As far as cleaner for your finish I would checke epiphones site to see if they give you and indication. The key is to use something extremly mild if your not sure.

id have to see pics maybe

Im someone is willing to give it to you, then yeah its worth it. The nice thing is its a bolt on if the body is crap but you like the neck bodies are easy to come by. You may replace some parts but it will be a great learning guitar, and if it goes too far south.... Seriously hardware/pickups is the biggest difference I see on cheap fenders/squiers compared to the higher end stuff. Just hang on to the old stuff so if you abandon the project you can put the good stuff on a different guitar. Take the paint off any solid colored fender and you may find a 5 or 6 piece body.

With an acoustic guitar the more you paint it the less tone/volume you will get.(IMHO) I would stain it and then lightly clear coat it.(or several coats and sand/polish it back) My friend the graduated from Robbertto-Venn said they teach to have as little finish as you can on an acoustic and still protect it.

The nice thing about caps is often they physically show signs of distress. The tops will bulge up. In my experience as a computer tech you can often see a physically bad cap. Example, a freind was having problems with his computer booting and then shutting down and not rebooting. Popped the side off, blew 5 years of dust out with the compressor. Wiped said dust off the front of my land rover.(you can skip this step if you dont have a rover, or dont point the dust at it) Booted it up and saw the caps on the mother board all had domed tops and the little croses at the top were split. They also became too hot to touch after about 30 seconds.(power anything off and know what your touching first, trust me I used to fix Pc monitors) He's getting a new mother board and to be safe powersupply.(often bad/weak ps will damage these type things) So what im saying is, if you are qualified. Unplug your amp let it sit for abit(overnite) so the circuits are all discharged. Remove the chasis and physically inspect everything. You may see burnt/cracked components, or caps with the tops bubbled or poped. When you can see phsyical signs of distress on a component you can put down the testing equipment and replace it.

Head over to any hardware store and look for paint strippers. Most have a large selection to choose from. If it works on furniture it will work on guitars, its all wood. Most furniture is not dippped in a vat of clear. Many guitars are. Most cheap foreign guitars are. Its not the wood that matters here its the finish. Some finishes are resistant to chemical stripping. You really have to know what finish is on the gutiar to choose the right ones. If it was dipped my experience is force of some kind will be required, sander, heat gun, whatever.

I don't know but if you have a scrap that you can test it on it would be the best plan.

It would depend on the type of dye/sealer/etc... Some dyes are not compatable with all clears, some clears are not compatable with all dyes. I would look at the label of your dye. If you post here the dye type someone will be able to tell you what works and doesnt.

Hands down, no questions asked. TACOMA. I have the roadking(dreadnaught sized chief), ive owned it about 7 years and it gets better all the time. It was one of the best I'd played when i got it, ive played them all. Not as fancy looking as others but your ears will never know. OOOH and dont forget the best neck on almost any guitar ive ever played.

I will second wes's opionon. Heatgun. Aside from pointy guitars he's usually on track. Ive stripped several guitars, on many factory finishes chemical strippers just make em shinny. As far as staining you wont know untill you see whats under there. Basswood and Poplar are very common and usually painted for a reason. Keep in mind, ugly woods are why the burst was invented. Also use caution with the heatgun if you want a natural finish, burn marks are hard to sand off. Its like power sanding if you let it stop moving bad things can happen. Unless your a fan of the BSB(burnt stained blue) finish, this can bee seen on the tutorial Brian did. I like to preheat a section then go back with the gun and work it slowly and peel.

Also I like to try the Rezznick method, otherwise known as alternate tuning. He basically will grab a guitar and just start tunining it to different notes till he likes what he hears. It makes it a nitemare to be his tech im sure, but results in good material.

It may be due to the dropped C tuning. I would see if it stays in standard tuning and then troubleshoot from there. I would look at a different type or heavier string if it stays in tune standard but won't in dropped C. Most guitars are not set up for that low of a tunning and will require adjustment to work well there. Otherwise I would make 1 change at a time so you know what fixed it.

The alsa corp i dont think is the exact same thing. I know the process involves saran wrap other than that it seems to be kept secret, unless you watch the video.

Im getting mine from Spruce Hill Guitars. Here is thier description: "This body weighs 4lbs. and is 1/16th plate with a frame inside, they are not heavy solid aluminum. These are of the same design as for the Fender custom shop. Their construction is the same as the Harley-Davidson Strats. They fit the Tele plus and American standard Tele guitars. Much more sustain and presence than wood. This body is polished aluminum and is drilled for the Standard neck and bridge. All body cavities are machined. Can be easily drilled for any bridge. We were selling them undrilled but are now offering them drilled to make it easier to assemble. " They say they made the bodies for the Fender custom shop aluminum models, for what i paid i doubt i could do the work myself. Plus i have no metal working experience or tools.

I used to use the aluminum ones in the early 90's. They kill your strings and once i learned to play and hear better just sounded bad. JazzIII all the way.

I have an aluminum tele body on order, ill be sure to post the results when it comes in. There is a thread in the in progress section. Should be here in the next few weeks.

Both sellers say they have worked with each other on a regular basis with no problem. So its definitley a moses neck, in fact Spruce hill says they work very well together. Now its just if i want to spend an extra 250 for them to mold it color shifting: For $150 moses will set up, intonate, and cut the nut. Basically I provide them the material and they will assemble and set up the guitar. While I have set up or assembled most of my gutiars, this may be worth it. My time has become much more limited with this whole playing out 1x a week thing.(3x recently) Otherwise its have a freind help me who recently finished Roberto-Venn help, but he's busier than i am.

Scott may not be able to teach gutiars to swim but he's on track here.

Sounds like its a black guitar with double edge trem then. I may have my friend cut some cool vinyl flames or the like for it. Now the guy im buying from wants to refund me and have me pay a different paypal account, before the refund has even finished processing. So I'm backing out until the refund is finalized.

I know its a refinish, im not that worried about the knob placement. Im thinking if i decide to go that route the BSB copy may be the best recipient of the double edge.

crap, your probably right looking at it. argh!!! Oh well it'll be cool either way. The price was definitly right. I dont think i want to be routing on that finish. maybe i will. maybe ill finish and resell it with an ofr. ive got other 550 bodies so the question still applies.

So, im not a huge PG fan. But ive always like the look of his ibanez's. Browsing ebay i found this, and the mouse just started clicking. I swear the thing has serious g.a.s. For $275 i dont think its possible that i could have done it myself including the neck paint and body. Not to mention an evo and another dimarzio. Problem is I just bought a 620gx off jemsite. I dont like plain black guitars, i was planning on refinishing it anyways. So ill resell one of the necks probably the 620 body. Anyone here moved a double edge? is it even possible(within reason?) are the routes the same? theres gonna be some turn over in the collection now

I like the lower horn but think the upper one is too big. It might give it a comfortable balance though. I think the big horn makes it look like a pointy bc rich thingy. I love the cut outs. Remeber any style comments are comming from the guy building an aluminum tele with possibly a graphite color change neck.

Im not making the aluminum body, its on order from spruce hill guitars. The moses necks dont come predrilled for the inserts. Actually there page has a good explination of how to set up a neck for drilling.

Ny nitefly sounds amazingly acoustic depending on the amp. Channel 3 of a mesa not so much. I think it really takes a preamp to really get a good "piezo" sound, it lets you balance etc....