RestorationAD

Got my first submission. Thanks!

Make sure your pictures are the best one you have!

Interesting enough idea...however...there is no text with the pictures promoting the builder or even what is cool about the particular guitar...so, misses out on a lot of the story...which is kind of the point I would have thought.

Send your story I will post it.

Maybe there could be a link to the build thread, as well as the story. I guess this stuff would all be sent by the owner/builder of the guitar, right?

Please send all the info that goes with the picture because the story is as important as the build.

This is such a lead guitar. It has amazing sustain on single notes. Must be the thick headstock and the JB4. If I was going to play lead in a band I would play this guitar. We previewed it tonight and it sounds like Tom Morello rhythms vs Randy Rhoads leads. My brother is very happy as it came out exactly as he wanted. Attitude. Thin guitar but very alive when you play it.

The flame maple, old ebony fretboard coupled with the padauk back makes it interesting, bright and hateful. Padauk makes for very clear bass response . Very heavy sound as compared to Mahogany. If you like deep base tones I suggest Padauk as a replacement for Mahogany.

Even though it hates me it plays like a lead guitar.

I want to try to post a picture of a custom guitar everyday... this is going to be fun.

Guitar of the Day

Seems simple enough. However I want user submissions for content. If you want your custom guitar posted send pictures to guitaroftheday@gmail.com

I will not use the photos for anything other than the blog. I want to give guys on this forum and others a chance to show off their work. I do not plan to use anything other than custom guitars submitted by builders.

I also plan to mirror the site on worldpress

http://guitaroftheday.wordpress.com/

By the way,my KXK v has the jack on the upper horn,close to the tip...on the back...it works very well and I think that is the optimum placement for a v

+1 Agreed. Next V will probably have that jack placement.

My brother and I spent a lot of time talking about what he wanted. He liked Black Machines but wanted a Randy V so this is what we built. It is thin. 33MM. The neck is glued in because there really wasn't room for screws. The TOM bridge is recessed and there is no neck angle. All the parts are from different Jacksons. The bridge and ferrels are from a JS30KV and the tuners are from a PS1. It has a bone nut (thanks George!) and big 6100 frets. Ebony fret board.

This guitar hated me. Everything that could go wrong went wrong. The finish refused to go on. I ended up using poly U. I had to completely sand all the deft laquer off after it yellowed. Entirely my fault for spraying to heavy but frustrating just the same. I am going back to Tung Oil.

The Jack placement is ok. But WesT has it right the place to put it is on the upper V.

The headstock is thick and I recessed the tuners slightly. Next build I will recess them more and leave the headstock thick. Looks kinda neat.

The JB4 is a nice pickup but the guitar was so thin that I was not able to use a push pull volume knob like normal and ended up with a on/on switch. I will be removing it and replacing it with a on/on/on switch so it can coil tap, full, and off. I just couldn't find the right switch in time.

Finished

Free as in Beer.

http://www.inkscape.org/

http://www.gimp.org/

http://sketchup.google.com/

If you are interested in donating/selling the kahler PM me.

dude I so built my brother a guitar for Xmas...

Looks like your neck needs a taper.... (maybe a fatty 1 11/16" - 2 3/16")

Like the design ...

+1 24 frets

+1 Why 26" do you have a baritone in mind?

Nice work! I am not sure I like the crazy bevel carve but it is smart to respect the customer and guide them without being arrogant or pushy.

Can't wait to get mine. Traditional SG in Sapele that is. No funny curves ....

Car body grinder (angle grinder) with a nasty 36grit disk on it for the initial cuts. Then I use a orbital through the grits. Round the edges as I go with a rasp, then bastard file, then mill file

+1 painting flat. This has really improved my coats and lowered my sanding work.

+1 no sanding sealer. The last guitar turned into a nightmare trying to get the lacquer to stick after a bad sanding sealer ordeal. For some reason they just did not get along and forced a complete sand back and restain..

+1 320 Grit sanding - no 600 grit until a couple of coats are on.

I now stay away from Steel Wool. It is hard to find it without oil.

Watch the water sanding. It is easy to get too much water on the guitar and it get under the finish through an unfinished hole.

13 degrees.

Be patient the wood you have is incredible

Save the bolivian mahogany and cocobolo as they are awesome woods.

I am not sure what you mean by "imposable to glue a veneer on there" If it fell off it should be as simple as sanding everything down and re-gluing it with a nice wood glue/hide glue.

I am not sure how bad the warp is but you could heat the wood and clamp it straight until it cools to see if that helps.

If the warps in the sides are not too bad they should come out when you bend the sides with heat.

When you brace the back it should straighten out.

An alternative is to buy some new Walnut back and sides and a Sapele neck blank and build an acoustic. Use the experience to save your great wood!

+1 on scale length... on my 6 strings its 25.5 or die! Big effect on tone.

Consider this thread HIJACKED

I like some neck angle for ergo reasons. However I hate the strings being miles off the body so I always end up sinking the neck as deep as possible into the body.

I think coupled with an angled headstock it makes the guitar look better from the side. More like a refined elegant instrument.

[Please Flame appropriately as this is an opinion]

Not so plank like. You know strats always look so ... well plank like, bolt together things. Like a good piece of decking or a wall stud or furniture even.

[Flame away!]

I have used traditional wood fillers or epoxy. Epoxy is messy and hard to sand if you don't squeegee it perfect. Epoxy can darken the wood and mess with stains. When I use epoxy and I need dark filler I stain the piece black before filling. Then sand back to the wood. It leaves a nice dark filled pores. However you really only get one shot at it.

Avenger give us a recommendation for a sanding sealer. Do you use something we can get at Home Depot/Lowes/Ace?

Neck angle.... and I thought it was only for TOM bridges and botched Floyd Rose installations

Seriously I would dare say that neck angle creates a void between the top and the strings and has some bearing on the acoustic properties of your solid body guitars. For example my Charvel Model 5 has 3 degrees or so and the strings are far from the body. It has a hollow acoustic tone when you play it without amplification. On the other hand my King V has a 2 degree neck angle with a very low set neck. The strings are very close to the body. It has a very solid acoustic sound when not amplified.

But when I plug them into the Mark VI mesa all bets are off. And I doubt that the height of the strings from the body are the major factor in tone. I would say that both sound similar do to Seymour Duncan.

Project Guitar already has what you need. A PGM is an RG basically. Volume knob is moved and headstock reversed. A Jem is not that far from an RG either except for a monkey handle... You should be able to make the necessary adjustments from one of those models with ease.

Project Guitar DWG files

I used to get my wood at Charlotte Hardwoods when I lived there

+1 for warmoth. never seen a bad neck from them. Love their stuff.

If it is a clean break glue it back together and see how it looks after. Chances are you will be fine. I have knocked the corner of a headstock before. If the break is fresh it is easy to get a really clean glue line.

The next step is truing it up. so after you glue it back (which you already did) sand the back flat and have at it.

If the glue line looks good use it!

The only upward load on a fretboard is in the middle where the truss rod pushes. I really doubt you would interfere with the structural integrity of the neck. A good glue joint is stronger than the wood and the grain runs the correct direction.

How about your measurements for the neck? That would be a great help to us all.

IPA... if you are still having issues you can PM me and I will look at your file for you. I am pretty good with Inkscape.