RestorationAD

Veneer.

Template and a router.

Stewmac has nice templates and router bits for just this type of work.

You could always do it by hand with a nice rasp if you are paranoid.

Search the forum for more info.

+1 on the Grizzly. Plus you can buy the extension and use it to re-saw tops.

+1 on learning to tune your BandSaw.

Buy good blades!!!

I have read quite a few reviews on the Rigid and common themes are issues with wheel balance and tracking. Not sure I would get it.

10's ... hmmm. I would probably look for some stiffer springs or tighten up the three it has.

I run 4 -5 springs on my guitars with 11s tuned to E. But 11s are tough and I like stiff tremolos. When you move them to 10s or tune the 11s down to D 5 springs usually do not have enough tension to keep the springs tight in the block and and hte lack of string tension makes the tremolo pull hard.

I have found that stiffer springs help a lot.

The biggest issue is the feel of the tremolo. So if you like an easy tremolo just use the three you have and tighten them. If like your tremolo stiffer try replacing the springs before adding another spring.

Heat gun! Works great on Jackson and Ibanez finishes... since your strat is probably Fugijen I would say it works. Be careful not to gouge. I use a plain old metal putty knife.

+1 Alnico Mags

I have the same issues with my Gibson V. The 500T is a crazy beast....

I would get a 490T as a replacement. It is much nicer and smoother. Every 500T I have ever owned was way too much all around.

I have had great success with Seymour JB-4 and the Jazz pickups... And the Seymour hot rod set.

I have the 12" Delta. Buy it you won't be sorry....

If I had the cash I would get the Grizzly. But the 12: Delta does everything you need it to.

I hid a volume knob on my Model 5.... just an idea. It works ok. However if I had to do it again I would rig a volume wheel that stuck out the bottom instead.

Model 5 Mods

I worked in a shop for a few years and honestly the best tool is a medium sized triangle file with the sharp edges ground flat on a belt sander...

The only time I really needed to crown frets was for extreme situations. Like a partial refret or a when a customer couldn't afford a full refret and needed a really cheap leveling/fix.

I never use one on a new fret job. If anything I use a rosewood sanding block (with a curved groove) with some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean up the sides

If I was going to buy one I would get the 300 grit Stew Mac Offset Fret File as a luxury.

Welding files for cleaning torch tips.

They are fragile but work well enough for a budget.

http://www.airgas.com/browse/product_list....hField=Category

+1 On all of the above.... love the whole thing. I am Jealous, just moved so my shop is not setup yet.... soon I will get back to work.

knobs and switches? knobs and switches? Knobs and Switches!!!! Man you will kill me. (j/k avenger63)

What about minimalist approach?

Put small push button switches to turn the pickups on and off.... maybe some hidden volume knobs.

Do it already!..

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http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/...dium/tele3.jpg

With the first PRS body winding down, I centered in on what the next body will be: an LP. I know... some of y'all gripe about all of the PRS, Tele, Strat, and LP copies out there. Deal with it.

Who me gripe? Never...

I would build a V copy out of it.... soon you will get enough guitars in your arsenal to get around to building the V. Then you will know the real power of not being able to sit while playing!

I like the wood. Looks nice. Keep us posted.

Can't wait to see how it goes... there are several lessons to be learned from all this and I think this is a great project.

Lesson One: Cheap Prototypes

Using alternative wood to flesh out ideas is cheaper.

I may kid around but a cheap prototype is a cheap prototype. Sure beats trying out that new body style in expensive wood. So if you can get it to work, I know it will sound __ok__ and the real gret thing is you will have a great template to use for a nice expensive model.

Lesson Two: Tone is the sum of the parts and the crafting?

Maybe we learn this, Maybe not. Tone is the great debate and this project will not end the debate. And I think it is great that it won't. I love reading topics about tone and how things effect other things. And I really hope that the electronics are not the Final Say in the sound of an instrument.

Lesson Three: Talking about this stuff is great.

ummm... whatever... it is a plywood guitar and the ideas behind the experiment are good. And we all gain knowledge from all the experienced guys chiming in on "How things effected their build". We end up with a nice case study so those of us who do not have time to run it gain the knowledge if not the experience.

Guitar building is a great hobby/profession/passion!

personally i think the worst issue with ply will be the grain going in different directions between the laminations, i reckon it will rob a lot of the longitudinal strength once cut to neck dimensions and it will make it very hard to work - not as much a problem for martin who i assume have all the grain going the same way and handy CNC machines to do most of the shaping.

will it be strong enough with cheap ply? lets just say i wouldnt go for a wizard style neck but it probably could be made to work

I was thinking the epoxy would be stronger than the plywood as a whole so saturating the piece would result in a composite neck.

The other alternative is to vacuum a layer of fiberglass to the neck after it is shaped. However that defeats the purpose of building a plywood neck...I think.

If he used 1/4" the grain orientation might be more controllable. Since the pieces would be thinner it would be easier to cut them with the grain running straight.??.??

I suggested some aluminum spars laminated in... but this is a crazy idea anyway, although this thread might become more important in the future as exotic woods become more pricey and scarce.

sniff sniff

But I gotta start somewhere.

(j/k)

Never fear av I have seen you think outside the box...

I didn't mention all the Les Paul and Strat copies...

I myself am a cloner. The only thing I have on this forum are King V clones.

The reasons to clone are in no set order (price, quality, customization). I just bought 2 early 80's Ibanez Destroyer 2s (DT-50, DT-155) and I will be cloning one (w/ high end wood, set neck, like the top of the lines) because I can't afford to buy a real DT-555. So I am the pot calling the kettle black.

We can start a Plywood guitar thread sticky. We can all try to build the better plywood guitar and post the results!!!

I never really thought about doing the neck with ply but I can see how it would work. If it ends up being crap I can always build a maple neck for it. Sounds like a plan!

++++!1 Sweet... I think this will be awesome...

I like school #2 + #3... __elitism__ is great. And since we all build our own guitars it is easy to use exotics.

The thing about the martin neck plywood is that it is still hardwood right? I am dead serious about using Home depot grade pine plywood. Hell you could hang it on the wall if it sucks...

A lot of the really old Japanese clones used to use maple plys laminated together.

I think whatever you try it will be cool and I am glad to see something other than PRS Clones on this forum. I love innovation and experimentation.

I owned plenty of plywood guitars in the 80's including a Lotus Frankenstien EVH Clone, A Harmony Flying V, and Pink Heavy Metal Strat I had to paint Loch Ness Green for OBVIOUS Reasons... HM. and they were fine... They sounded just like the pickups I put in them... seymours fixed everything.

In my opinion you need to build the neck out of something crappy and make it stable so you can get cred.

What about a Plywood/Aluminum/Plywood laminate glued together with Epoxy? You can get nice pieces of aluminum at Home Depot and make a pretty rigid sandwich, plastic storage bag, little vacuum, little heat, and etc...

Also you should add a Hardboard (Yes as in peg board with no holes) drop top like my JS30 King V has...

And you might as well build some pickups. It is never to late to start experimenting. Have Fun! Good luck.

+1 on the epoxy fill. If it is nice and deep you can throw some turquoise into the epoxy and it will be sweet. ala Drak

+1 for conviction.

I think a nice dark grain filler and a little darkening on the paduck and the color would flow with the spalt.

not sure about the flame myrtle pickgaurd. I would just do black.... but still it is gonna be one of a kind. Nice racing stripe - adds class to the whole thing.

props \m/

The thin 2mm tops could be obtained from LMI or other sources for a acoustic back sets... I like the fact blackmachines uses dense hard woods as they allow them the thin bodies while structural integrity is maintained. I have 2 parker flys and they are light and resonant.

And they save your back...

Xanthus is right your electronics play a bigger part in the sound of your electric

I am selling my Ibanez AF120 Hollow Body if anyone is interested. It is exceptional.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=180251386258

That is one cool project. Nice Work!