westhemann

Oops I forgot.The 1/4" ears are 1/2" in width

EMG 81/85 are 1-1/2" by 2-13/16" with 1/4" ears centered

Sorry about the "edited by" line.You just had your response inside your quote box by accident.I used to be able to stealth edit but Prostheta keeps playing with stuff and now that ugly pink line is everywhere.

Here in Australia its illegal to do anything at all related to your house wiring, have to pay a professional just to change a plate on a power point, however you can re plaster your whole house yourself!

Depends on where you are,here.There is no Federal law about it,so it's up to local codes.If you are in the woods you have no local codes to comply with(by "in the woods" I mean no mans land),and if you are in a small town nobody really cares enough to enforce what codes there are.

I had mine inspected by a licensed electrician I did the work and he signed off on it.

I wish I had a basement...I was looking at houses made of bottles and I was thinking that would be a cool workshop

http://www.offgridworld.com/bulletproof-fireproof-house-made-from-used-plastic-bottles/

Of course they don't talk about how to attach the roof so it won't blow off....but I think some cedar posts would do it

Wiring is cake compared to drywalling.

It is,but you only buy it once.

It is probably just the pic...by looking I would have guessed 14guage as well.

12-3 should be plenty.It's what I used for all of my 20 amp outlets in my container home and it's been great for 2 years now.If I recall it's right at the edge of the recommended output for that size,but it is in the chart on the back of the package.I moved to 10 gauge iirc for the 240V 30 amp water heater,but everything else is 12.

Hard to remember.I may have been going for overkill.I know my main cables are oversized a bit.

Man,that is quite a space.

It doesn't.I have used it.There will always be sanding,but the trick is that with epoxy you can get it thick enough to not sand through it if your sanding blocks are flat.

Or you could just use regular paste grain filler and just deal with the grain being a bit obscured

I am sure you know though that there are other ways to deal with the issue of shrink back.If you used tight grained woods like alder and maple,and used epoxy in as many glue joints as you could then that would cut down on the finish sinking in.

Have you tried 2 part epoxies as fillers?I only used it on one build years ago but there is no shrink back on that one.I only level it and use it as a sealer coat though,I don't sand back to bare wood...

I see a lot of gibsons like that. The custom shop gibsons seem to have it the worst for some reason.

I just always thought that if it wasnt absolutely immaculate then it wasnt acceptable in the custom guitar world. Maybe i have unrealistic expectations.

Well,it depends.Some custom builders specialize in unfilled finishes so that you always see the grain telegraphed through the finish.I did my Model 1 strat that way and I like it.

Many builders and players believe thick finishes kill tone.There is a whole market devoted to thin and natural finishes.

But the best products almost always are hazardous

Every finish shrinks back over time in my experience.I even have a KXK guitar with auto poly 2 part finish that has visible glue lines now from shrink back.It certainly did not when it was shipped to me about 8 years ago or so.

Ever look at an old Gibson LP?on the mahogany back and neck it shrinks into the pores somewhat,and that is as top of the line as Nitro gets.The Maple cap is always smooth,but maple's pores are much less "suckish"

Those cheap imports don't shrink back because of the bondo-like coating they have all over the body.

I am curious about this stuff

http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/CastingMaterials/POLYESTER/polyester.htm

Might be a hell of a sealer...then again,might not.I have never had epoxy shrink back...

Just so you know,that other stuff you used that I still use is a bar top finish.Everything sinks in over time unless you really fill the grain first.

You just need to learn to fix finishing mistakes,that's all.No finish is ever flawless in my experience until it is patched up.Maybe you should just switch to something with good burn in so that you can drop fill and patch when you need to,then after leveling and buffing it will be flawless.

Yeah,I bought figured blanks(they were all the rage at the time) and they were $300 per.Set the router right down on the top and it didn't even scratch it.

This is "pomelle" figuring

And this is "waterfall"

The Explorer started off as a different guitar altogether,but it was too heavy

sanding Bubinga is usually fun...

Been there.I have two guitars with Bubinga bodies,and one is a carved top.Sanding nightmare,but the finished product is always nice

Although if you inlaid some eyes and painted some reptile scales the snake head would become a cool feature instead of just "too much wood"...it looks like it is swallowing the headstock like a python swallowing a Goat or someting...If you could figure out how to give the impression of the headstock being some sort of animal a snake might swallow?Like a fish with it's head already in the snake's mouth?The Cottonmouth is common around here and eats fish as a main staple

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agkistrodon_piscivorus

I think that could be awesome and could become a signature of yours...Front looking like a headstock and back looking like a snake eaing a fish...you could even use the neck as the snakes body or something if you were good with airbrushing

I agree.You only need a small piece of wood back there to support the end of the truss rod.Extra wood that you don't need will only bother you down the line

I found some pics that might help

I prefer this style here personally

Yeah,I bookmarked it.

Maybe it's because they pick through the lumber to find the best pieces and then mark them up.

The inventory is impressive, but the prices were a bit of a shock.

For some reason every time I go in a place that has inventory stacked vertically it's always sky high in price.The best places I found locally just have stacks of mahogany,maple,etc and it takes a bit of digging to get the pieces you want.

I have one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-38292-12-Ounce-Plastic-Tip-Hammer/dp/B007KHE232/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1386345516&sr=8-16&keywords=rubber+hammer

It works just fine.I use the plastic side,because the rubber doesn't seat them well.I hate my fret press.It is so finicky and cumbersome.