westhemann

I have the EZ locks on my last two builds and they work great and cost half what schallers cost.Also,you can use them like standard tuners by merely only using one hole.

The ones I did not like were these.Total crap

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Gotoh-Style-BLACK-locking-tuners-True-mechanical-Lock_p_391.html

Those tuners are fine,but I have been using these lately

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-EZ-LOK-locking-Tuners-Black-6-inline-for-Fender-Headstocks_p_883.html

It is just a staggered hole method of locking,and it works well.

All of the Carvin stuff is good quality IMO.I don't bother with their electronics,but have used most of the hardware at one time or another.They have quality products at reasonable prices.

I like roller saddles on Kahlers because it makes sense on a cam style trem,but I don't have any use for them otherwise.The steel saddle that come with the Carvin are very nice all by themselves...I think in most instances graphite and rollers are mere marketing ploys.

I do like the roller nut LSR makes,but it is pricey and a pita to install.On trems I always use a lock nut,but on fixed bridges I either make a nut from this faux tusk stuff I have or I buy an LSR(if the string pull is fairly straight)

Out of curiosity,if you don't mind saying,how much do you usually get for one of these hardwareless guitars?

If you don't want to say,you don't have to,I am merely curious.

I would never use that style of trem unit.It is the least stable of all trems in my experience.Any strat i ever build will have this bridge

http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/FT6B

In whatever color I needed,because I had a Carvin strat in the past with that bridge and it feels and sounds the same (or better)without the stability issues.

If I wanted a trem on it I would use a Floyd,because they are much more stable and are actually useful,and many Fender strats were stocked with them straight from the factory .If I was not concerned with it feeling like a strat I would use a Kahler because it is superior in every way.

That "vintage strat" bridge is meant to be cheap...nothing more.

What type of frets are you using?I just checked all of my fretwire and none of it sticks to a magnet....Of course the SS won't stick,but the nickel won't stick either.

All of that is not true at all...it's tiny little gremlins in the pickup that start squawking every time they hear the vibrations...they match those vibrations...just like when the little one was humming in the movie.

It's an oversimplification,but for all intensive porpoises...

http://theoatmeal.com/comics/cats_actually_kill

Those things are pretty evil.They use fur and purring to try to make you forget that they will eat you if you die anywhere near them.

Better than "why do you wax your legs?"...

That's all it is.Some woods take black dye really evenly.

Sure,if you want.Canvas is also a natural fiber and glues well with wood glue.The paper grade is plenty strong and is cheaper which is why I use it.I don't use it structurally,just as covers.Headstock overlay would be well within the scope of paper based though.

It's not like you can tell it's paper based.It's just a plain black sheet.I use epoxy because it just seems like it would grab the resin better.I rough up the gluing surface a bit because it's not porous at all so I feel it needs a mechanical bond.

http://www.professionalplastics.com/MICARTA

That's not where I buy it though.Just a random site.Don't remember where I found mine.

No,I looked it up.Micarta is what I use.Paper substrate grade X black

Just looked it up.Yes,Micarta is the same as what I use.

I don't know what "Micarta" is...I just call it phenolic.Basically it's resin impregnated into a substrate.It is available in several different substrates but I like the paper because paper comes from wood.

I use it for cavity covers,but it would work fine for a headstock overlay.

I use epoxy,but I should think wood glue would work just fine on paper based products.I buy the paper based stuff.

It looks like my first guitar finishing project.I took a Schecter,removed the finish,and stained it with "mahogany" stain(the guitar was basswood) then wiped on Minwax Poly.It was extremely uneven and ugly,like that one.I gave it away.Soaked in more at the endgrain than the top.

After that I learned it took more to create an even stain than merely brushing it on.

That LP7 is really sweet.

Could be.The Viktorian ones do look superior to the tele.If that is the case then it's the 3D guy that's full of crap.

I do think Viktorian should do a little something on their site about how they build them.I understand wanting to keep intellectual property secure,but I think most of my questions about them could be answered with a small behind the scenes look at some of the process.Are they truly 100% carbon fibre?Are the necks adjustable?Are they solid or hollow?What do they sound like under high gain?

Anybody see these?

http://www.viktorian.com/

Somebody sent this to me and I have my doubts.I don't get all the secrecy.If you watch the youtube thing the guy says it is 3D printed but says it is carbon fiber...afaik carbon fiber is not 3D printed,but plastic is.The site says "carbon based is superior"...but last time I checked,all life on Earth was carbon based including trees.There is no mention on the site as to how these things are built,but the 19 hours mentioned in the video is most likely a lie in itself.Each of the pieces might be printed in that time,but there is still assembly to do.And then you have a $2600 guitar that may or may not be plastic

What do you guys think.Are they full of crap or not?

I love the V

I like it.I am interested to see the single cut in real wood.

I have to be honest,I just don't see the big deal.I have a "good" rasp.It has one radiused side and one flat side,half of the teeth on each side are fairly coarse and half are fairly fine.There is no handle and the whole thing is maybe 8 inches long.I don't remember where I bought it,but I don't think it cost much at all.Had it for a decade now.

It works just fine on everything from mahogany to bubinga.I can shape a neck with no issues and even the coarse teeth grooves sand out pretty easily.

Some things just don't need you to throw much money away.