westhemann

Make marks with a pencil and use a good rasp.You'll be surprised how easy it is to make bevels with a rasp if you are careful

Be sure to deduct all of your supplies and mileage you go through to get them.Also deduct your internet since you use it for business to sell stuff and buy materials,and set up a "home office" to deduct a percentage of electricity,phone,etc,Clothes you use to work too

Get Turbo Tax Home Business if you can.It walks you through all of that.It has saved me thousands in taxes over the years because without it Ii would not even know what to deduct.

Also,it is nice to save your reciepts,but not absolutely necessary to have them to deduct things.

Mileage is the most important.Keep track of all of it and if you can set aside one vehicle for all of your "business" stuff,then you can keep track better and deduct tires, oil changes and repairs

Remember that if you don't use your deductions you probably won't make it.It isn't the Government's "right" to take the food out of your mouth,no matter what they try to tell you.

That was days ago...catch up Pros

I must disagree anyway,object penetration depth is a very accurate way to determine hardness...sort of why they do it.

Soft maples are almost every bit as tough to sand as rock maple though in my experience,most likely because of the grain structure rather than the actual "hardness".

And regardless of the myth,no matter how hard wood is,a cat can scratch it...so if you have a cat store your wood behind locked doors.

The thing about fretwire is that it can sit undamaged for years and be fine.I hang mine on guitar hangers

If you look in the background of this pic you will see my SS fretwire.The nickel is on another hanger in another room

I do think you pay a little extra for the Jescar precut pieces because of the 9.5" preradius as well.

By the pound is cheaper.

I don't know where Warmoth gets their fretwire,but he is right in that Jescar is top knotch.Some of the cheaper fretwire is really soft and doesn't wear very well for serious players.I can chew through most Chinese fretwire in a few months,and I don't even play too excessively,though my grip is too tight I will admit.

Jescar wire will last me about two years on average before needing a recrown.

I was unaware you could buy direct.Looks like good prices

http://www.alliedlutherie.com/fretwire.htm

I don't really know how many guitars 25' makes,but seems like it lasts a while for me.It's really good wire.I just bought two rolls of nickel and have used it on my last two guitars.

I buy in rolls from Allied Lutherie.

Actually,at 770 on the jenka scale it is almost barely over half as hard as rock maple(1440)

Yeah,sycamore is a softer maple....Same as a box elder is a softer maple.

I had a spirit for about 3 days before I returned it...just felt like an unbalanced stick...the lady at MF asked the reason for the return and I told her "I just feel like any God worth his salt would punish me for owning this piece of crap"

Or that was the gist of it anyway

I am sort of surprised to say the headless is the one that is really tickling my fancy...possibly because I have been planning a headless for a while and this one seems to be the most perfect adaptation of it I have seen yet

Volutes are just one of those things that draw the eye and may look "in the way" even when they are not....Like a neck heel.Took me a bit of experimentation to find a truss rod placement that gives control over the entire neck while leaving the volute in a good spot.

My personal volutes could be much smaller and still be effective,but I like the look of a strong volute.

Awesome.If you ever do a solid guitar body of bubinga you will love it.Hard to work but great end product

looked at those side profiles of the volute, i really think you need to knock more of it down on the first fret side. It is half way down the first fret. A volute should be pointed to directly behind the nut. That is really going to limit your hand on the first fret

I disagree.the volute should correspond to the thick part of the truss rod underneath or what's the point.Most volutes end at about 1/4 to 1/2 down the first fret and interfere with nothing.

Power chord first fret

G maj

A little envious?I am so jealous I want to come through the computer and strangle him.And that is as nicely as I can put that...I am showing great restraint,I promise you.

I buy the fingerboards preradiused,duh

I hate fret slotting and radiusing.,so the extra little bit of money is worth it to me.Plus it's really not more work.Even if it's flat you still have to set up your router,plus then you have to take extra care during radiusing to get your fingerboard the right height above the shelf,unless you don't care about nut height.

Whether you do all your calculations after you fret or before you radius,it's still the same work as far as I am concerned.

I used a 5/8" diameter bearing bit so I could do it in one pass and lessen my chances of screwing it up.

Oh,K...I routed the nut shelf on my already fretted board the easiest way I have ever done it...

I used masking tape to tape my stewmac radius block to the neck and used it as a router rest to cut the shelf...very carefully.Worked great.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46665-spalted-multiscale/#entry511101

Going to paint the body black.The rest will just be cleared

Got my nut shelf routed

Different camera,but I took these earlier today before I drilled for the straplocks,random screws, and 3 way switch.Now all it needs is final sanding and finish.

Those are hard dimensions,so you'll want to add a little around the entire thing I think