Guerrilla Radio

Yeah, I tried twisting them with my hand, but that didn't work out. Wouldn't there be some kind of nut under the MOP inlay to keep the bolt.. inside the bridge? lol. Because I was thinking that's what i'd have to turn. Any idea how I could turn the things without having to take out the inlays? because that's pretty much impossible lol.

Well, there are two inlays that are on the bridge. Hm... you may be on to something here. any way that I could check this out without destroying the bridge? haha EDIT: yeah, took off all the strings and felt around in the soundhole. Found two bolts right under the bridge. I'm guessing this is the problem that you've described.

Waaay late response, but it's not the tuners. It's easy to hear that it's coming from the bridge whenever i try to play the thing. So for now, i've just loosened the strings while it's not in use for a long time... because it's pointless to keep it in tune if it's not going to be played.

Possible? I wouldn't see why not, but I might as well ask, just in case. If I could avoid buying the buffing pads from stewmac, that'd be good, seeing as how i'm pressed for money. I saw a guy polish his guitar using only swirl remover on youtube... by hand. and I was just wondering how effective this would be as opposed to polishing with the polishing compounds and buffing pads. Any and all advice is appreciated.

maybe if you set the scale of the page on word to 100%? I'm not too sure, but it's worth a shot.

Doesn't matter, if your making a one off you would want to build a guitar which was much better than you could buy off the shelf. Means no shortcuts. Plus, you will be addicted anyway after your first. Haha, yeaaah, I barely have enough money to make this guitar as it is. so we'll see about making another one. Haha.

Yeah, see, I don't think I'm gonna end up making another guitar, so making a template, to me, would be kinda pointless. also, ^someone from UG. the bolded part is my biggest concern. Will that be a problem? i figure I could always make the neck pocket and then find where I should be placing my bridge. Yeah, i'm a noob guitar maker.

I came to this conclusion because whenever I palm mute the strings, and strum them (and I mean, really strum them HARD), it doesn't rattle. I restrung it and seated the strings properly and it still is suckay. damn.

well... maybe I'll just go with a more accurate bandsaw next time... there's a dewalt one in there for some really accurate cuts that would be good to use. who knows, maybe I'll make a template on friday.

Yeah, that's how far I got. Now, I've got a question. I've seen a lot of people just do a rough cut on a bandsaw and then somehow get it down to the final size of the guitar. How the hell should I go about doing that? Haha, people have said i should use a jigsaw, others have said I should make an MDF template and then route it, but I don't want to do that. Can anyone give me a hand?

Sadly, i'm out of acoustic strings. haha. I'll pick some up when I go down to Guitar Center on friday. hopefully that's the reason why... I want to play my acoustic again instead of playing my electric unplugged.

yeah, basically on my cc24 acoustic, the bridge rattles when I strum the guitar. Don't know how it started, or why, but it does it. If I rest my hand directly on top of the part of the bridge where the strings go in, then the rattling stops. Anyone know how I could fix this? I'm gonna go head and guess that it might involve me taking off the bridge and re-gluing it. yes, it was a cheap guitar. should have gotten something different.

It's a beaut.

Sure you can use the Badass. It's all about the height of the saddles --you'll have to set the Badass in so that the saddle height will work with the strat neck. Usually Badass bridges stand pretty tall (very tall, in fact), which is why most of the time you'll need an angle for the neck, because otherwise the fingerboard has to stand very proud of the body (have a look at most Rickenbackers). You can recess the Badass into the top to counter its height --and since the guitar is already routed for the strat trem, you can leave a bit of a gap behind so that you can still string up the Badass. So it's possible. Not sure why you'd want a Badass instead of a hardtail though. But if you want it, it's possible. Have a look through the site for info on recessing the bridge. Ah, i didn't think that they'd stand that tall off of the body... so nevermind then, I'll just put a regular hardtail on there. Thanks for the input!

Dang... Oh well, looks like I will be going for the regular hardtail. I would go with the hipshot bridges, but they're very expensive... I want to order from guitarfetish because of the amazingly cheap prices. Thanks for the advice though! sucks that I don't know how to get a neck pocket angle the way I want it, haha.

So I'm coming here to ask. Would a badass bridge work on a strat (rather, a strat copy)? I've got an old strat copy and a neck that I'll be refinishing.. as for the body, I'm going to put a hunk of wood in the trem cavity in the back, fill it, and finish it, so I can put on a hardtail. i want the badass bridge (http://www.leoquan.com/html/guitardetails.html) to go on it. I just need some clarification. Thanks!