Tim37

nice real flame

please take no offence but you might want to scale down the flames on the tele they are a little big.

well im not really in to it but the guy builds cars and he wants a steel acoustic

i was talking to a guy last night about building a steel body

pleased with the subtle variation of texture as well between the soft burnished gleam of the aluminum, the brushed surfaces of the pickups, the hard chrome of the pickguard, tuners, and bridge plate

its a polished aluminum

i think warmoth makes a short scale neck.

the 7k is probably the neck pick up and the 14 k the bridge

the bridge is wound hotter so it will be more balanced when you are switching between bridge and neck.

edit i may have that backwards any way one is the neck the other is the bridge pickup.

mine is sitting in a friends body shop right now waiting for him to get a little time to shoot it he does a few guitars a year along with a host of other odd things.

just be sure that if you plan on using a laquer top coat that u use a laquer base or somthing that will be compatible with the top thats the most important thing just read the lables and you will be fine.

btw i was told 6 months average cure time

"check it out, looks vintage don't it ? "

"Hell yeah, looks real old"

"yeah, been sitting here thinking about how vintage it looks"

"yeah, real cool vintage look"

" think it needs to look even more vintage ? "

"not sure, maybe we need to look at pics of real vintage guitars"

"I already spent 6 hours today doing that"

"oh, well guess you better leave it be then. How does it play ?"

" not sure, never played it. Afraid it might take away from the vintage look".

im glade im not the only person that has meaningless conversations with themselves

i would go to a sign shop and have a vinal mask or decal cut either apply the decal and laquer over it or use a mask for paint or gold/silver leaf.

thats what i would do but im sure theres a thousand different ways it can be done.

Got to say yall made it hard this month they all are works of art. but of coarse i had to vote for one of them and it was the kelvinator just because nothing is cooler than a rat rod.

i did a little reading a while back on the braggs bridges and i remember somewhere reading that the wood didn't make much if all of a difference in tone with a piezo brigde. so just build it for looks and comfort and you should be good.

it can be done but you need to do a little research.

what you are probably gonna end up having to do is tear it down and use the parts tubes, tube sockets, transformers, switches, and you may be able to use some of the resistors. i would sugest replacing any old capasitors.

don't get too bent out of shape atleast you still have a guitar that you enjoy

but like pete said no mater what you do its still gonna be a squire.

http://www.1728.com/guitar.htm

it may be a little advanced but i found this site really useful lots of diagrams and lay outs

if you want a easy wire on two humbuckers probably a 3way switch, and a single tone, volume (pretty standard) would be your best place to start.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...tic=2h_1v_1t_3w

its really simple if you start feeling overwhelmed just take it one wire at a time and befor you know it you will be done.

yeah what bluesy said you can't use a wire nut on most of the stuff in a guitar. see if you can get somebody to solder it for you

if you want to go back to a graphite nut they are only a buck or two more.

you would need some kind of on board processor to convert every thing over then you would have to have another processor on the reciever end.

why not just pick up a good wireless unit rout out a cavity big enough to hold it and then put the controls on the front of the guitar? it would be much easier and a lot cheaper.

A little odd but i like it nice work

Auto parts store

Why are you recessing the bridge area? Wouldn't it be easier to angle the neck pocket?

I like the design though. It reminds me of some Neil Moser's stuff.

with the right router bit it's one quick pass with the router and your done no angles to calculate or gigs to build it seems to me the ressessed bridge is easier.

im not a luither but i have delt with a few cheap guitars and here are a few things i have found along the way

1 cheap tuner will slip

2 loose bridge with move and toss it out of tune also cheap trems

3 nutt will cause too much binding on the string

4 i have had to take a bolt on neck off and clean the SCREWS!!! the maker of this fine battle ax other wise know as a epiphone sg that thing weighes a ton used wax to lub the neck screws well the thing wouldnt stay in tune and i finaly noticed that the neck was loose due to the wax build up i took the neck off and cleaned every thing good then it stayed in tune fine. it still weighs a ton.

but any way in my short time messing with guitars thats what i have found

I skimmed over the build thread and wow what a nice build

i do have one question after looking and reading part of the post over there i am wondering was it worth fixing that body or would it have been easier to just build form scratch?

the reason i ask is it seems that by the time you fixed the neck pocket carved the top put the back on and re routed the controls you could have just built the body.

any way like i said really nice build or save and for everyone else if you didn't look at the build thread you need too lots more pics that will make you truely appriciate this build.

http://www.1728.com/indexfun.htm

try this site there are tons of variations he gives you the info you need to put together what ever you want.

ok you win your 0 and 2 are in a different order than here i think i would wait for cooler weather.

I think the thing people need to really be aware of is if the finish they have chosen can be heat cured also.

If its not designed for it or you do it wrong you will be trapping all the solvents under a thin film of "dry" and the underlying finish will never cure.

I know it's beating a dead horse but this is where following the manufacturers directions helps.

i haven't seen it on wood but i have seen it on metal and it ain't pretty when those solvents finaly decide its time to come out.