weezer2112

There is in fact a finish on the neck. It's linseed oil, rubbed in to protect the wood, but still give a nice feel. The Stew Mac catalog has a clamp available that is designed specifically to close top and back cracks on violins, it's curved to clear the arch on the instrument. I've built a few violins, and can tell you for sure that you're looking at a spruce top and maple back and sides. Nice looking piece, go for it, and good luck!

Thanks, glad you like 'em! On both instruments the 3 lower courses are tuned in octaves, the 8 was 24.75 scale length, the 10 was 25.5". On the 10 as well I built it with humbuckers and a transducer in the bridge, with stereo outputs. It sounded HUGE!! I was sad to see it go, but I've got more insanity in the works. Currently working on an 8 string electric classical, and a fanned fret 9 string electric!

Nice to know I'm not the only one! Here's a shot of the mandocello I built a few years ago. And this was my second one, but with 10 strings, to extend the range, CGDAE. These instruments are a blast to play!

Thanks, glad you like it! I"ve been refering to it as a baritone mostly due to the fifths tuning. With the equivalent of 27 frets and the high string being tuned to A it gets well into guitar range. The low F is, of course, just a half step up from the low E on a Fender or Dano bari, but you're right, the fretlessness really throws it all out the window! So I haven't been actually calling it a baritone guitar, just a baritone. And yeah, people have asked me " a baritone what?", and I just tell 'em " you decide!" Now here's a 5 ftring fretless bass!

I don't, sorry. My camera leaves a lot to be desired. This shot might be better.

Here's a pointy baritone I just finished. 30" scale, fretless 5 string, tuned in fifths, low to high FCGDA. Ash body, with green transtint and 6 coats of tung oil. Maple neck with cocobolo fingerboard. Hand wound the pickups, crafted and polished the stainless steel bridge. What do you all think? Eric.

This guitar was in fact modelled after the PRS Archtop, and is almost 4" thick!After cutting out the main body section, I contoured the back and then gutted the inside to a back thickness of .25" I left two sections sticking up in the guitar to match up with corresponding pieces inside the top, so that when the top was glued on I'd have posts from top to bottom for the bridge studs. Except for a neck block area the rest of the interior is hollow. Ended up sounding a lot like a 335, which made my customer very happy! I'll post pics of some of my other work when time permits.

One of my earlier projects. Solid maple, 17.5 lbs. Ouch!

here's a shot of the back. Yes, my customer is a Trekkie! In fact, we refer to it as Seven of Seven! I'll post shots of some of my other work if you're interested. And thanks for the kind words! Eric.

Hi all,my name's Eric, I'm a newbie here, although I'm not new to building instruments. I've been a luthier for almost 17 years now, spent over 3 years doing repair work for a couple of my local GC stores,( Seattle area) and only just discovered this awesome site. Doh! Anyway, I thought I'd show off a piece I built a couple of years ago. 7 string PRS replica, (the guy I built it for is a huge PRS fan) hollow walnut body, bookmatched quilted maple top. What do you think?