YeahRoon

Just as important: tune it way the heck down! Down as in the strings just hanging there... You want as little tension on the neck as possible. The cargo hold is not half as comfortable as the cabin! Tune your guitar down... way way way down or you might have some neck adjustment problems to deal with as it arrives.

Ok, I am convinced... I need a good book on guitar building! Anyone care to recomend one?

I have one more question, how do you measure neck-angle. Don't answer: In degrees (I know that). But if a neck on a guitar is sitting at an angle, and I want to find out what that angle is, how do I go about measuring the difference in degrees.... Am I making sense at all??

Brian, Once again... you da man!

Metric: 1) I am one of those crazy Europeans who do everything in metric. 2) With the invention of pocket calculators it's actually easier to calculate things in metric. my calculator has keys for 0.25 but none for 1/4 3) A lot of specs I see are in metric. Quizzz: Which one of the above statements is a smart a** remark? a) 1 2 c) 3 d) None of the above

I am so not good at metric to imperial conversions.... From Europe originally, living in the US now... Pfftttt going from 3/32" to ... what is that .09 or whatever. Is there a quick lookup somewhere?

Never mind! I think I answered my own question... Duh! That would cause some serious problems with angle of the strings If I look at it correctly it would cause the string to "rub" against the back of the bridge. I looked at stewmac and am now in love with the Baby Grand But I understand from earlier posts that that won't quite work because of the string spacing. Or does it? Say yes, say yes! That thing just looks too way cool! I want it! I want it!

Brian (and all the others) thanks for the answers. Brian, I see you sell that saga kit on your site. Do you suggest (in the case of tune-o-matic) with string through body or with a stop tail?? Yeahroon

Do I understand correctly that it's the tilt of the neck that accomodates for the difference in string spacing or is that just to adjust for the difference in height between the 2 different types of bridge?

But... Can a factory tele neck (width wise) actually be used with a tuneomatic or does the string spacing go way out of whack? Sorry for all the dumb questions!

Hi all, great place to hange out! I have some (should be) simple to answer questions and yes you canflame me if I get really obnoxiously stupid I actually play bass mostly and already have some awesome (albeit very much store bought) pieces of wood that I am extremely satisfied with. However I also play quite a bit of guitar and can never find what I really want. So I decided (silly me) to try and build my own. Here is what I like: I have a telecaster that I absolutely love for the playability, the scale the size, shape of the neck, etc. I used to have a cheapo guitar with a hard tail whatchamacallit bridge. Crud now I can't think of the name, the kind you find on Gibson Les Pauls, the stoptail... AH yeah... tunomatic! That's it. The nice round chrome ones with the stop tail... They just make more sense to me, rest my hands easier (used to BIG because of the bass guitars). I have some crappy hondo that I bought at a yard sale for 50 bucks because someone was senseless enough to outfit it with mini goto tuners, which cost more than the guitar ever did or will be worth and I keep that guitar around so I don't lose the tuners. They are smooth, small and generally much nicer then what's on my tele. What I miss on the tele is a bucker! I basically want to build another guitar that makes up for the sounds I am lacking on my factory tele. I love the biting sharp highs from the tele but would like some nice litt;e warmer buck sound every once in a while. Don't want to go with a Gibson, although I love the sound I can justify the cost. So here is what I had in mind. I buy the 99 dollar (this is an experiment and if it works out I can go with more expansive kits) tele kit from Saga (I think) and fit it with the tuners I already have. I just want one humbucker by the bridge, so I fill the existing cavities in the body and re-rout for the one humbucker. I want nothing but a volume knob (don't ever use tone anyway) so I fill the existing hole and rerout for a simple 1 knob config. A little bit of woodworking skills is all I should need (and some of my friends actually posess these skills). So far so good... But what I would really like to know is: Can I fit a tunomatic bridge on a tele kit? Do the measurements work? Or are these babies just too dang big? Is the E to E measurement of a Tunomatic that much wider and do I now seriously have to shim the neck to body joint because tunomatics are much higher?? Please let me know what you think, I am itching to start building!