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youre leaving out some info i think....how did you go about pressing the veneer?.....there are some specialty glues for the thin vaneers you might have wanted to try...tightbond makes a special glue for this......the 1/4 inch top may give you trouble bending on the contour....if you are using a flat top guitar, then this is the way to go

depends on the clear.....they use polyester which is compatible with everything.....usually the problem with vinyl or other objects being attacked is due to the accelerant used....

i try to stay away from anything government or red tape involved

i dunno, ive never liked kiss at all......ive met them and know a lot of people that know them personally, and they ARE the stereotype i do like the axe bass though

yeah i remember someone doing this on ebay a while back with flames......you might be able to make a lil cash, who knows...but most serious painters either allready have vinyl cutters or just go to a sign shop and have them do a mask....paint masks usually dont cost more than a few dollars......

its all voodoo....i dont know many shops that have the time or the money to waste knocking on wood......most buy their wood by the pallet......now, that being said....we may come across a piece of wood thats exceptional and stash it away for someone special......that happens a lot

ill draw a working drawing for you and take some pics its basically a simple track system with up /down and back and forth movement well, i have neck templates for all the bodies listed as well plus maybe a few more

im glad i opened a topic for you guys to chat in

geeze....lets see kramer pacer, circa 1981 kramer 5150 kramer hot for teacher kramer frankie ad kramer baretta, circa 1983 kramer baretta circa 1984 kramer baretta 2 kramer pacer kramer pacer 2 kramer nightswan kramer telecaster fender telecaster warmoth strat charvel strat charvel green meanie charvel jake e lee kramer star warmoth explorer jackson vinie vincent vee(scotts fave) performance flame ibanez jem ibanez universe ibanez rg(rear and top rout) ibanez jpm wolfgang ernie ball evh and im working on the old racer x series and the winger explorer and whatever else i forgot to list

yeah they are big....the one i got is super big, weve been trying to figure out where to station it for ease of flow....its a good thing we have plenty of room.... we are just using it to do necks and some contours until all the 3d cad programs are done...but it should be able to handle whole guitars(with the upgrade), i know a couple companies that using it for that...plus ill use it mainly to make templates....scott will be stationed there all weekend transfering from plywood to plexiglass templates....our library of templates has expanded so much now its scary....scary for scott that is

there are 2 companies that make them that i know of...one is the link that brian showed by allred.....thats the one i ordered....the other company name i forget right now, terre something.....theirs are a lot cheaper than the allred and doesnt come with the router and some other things. i went with allred for the precision and durability....i got the 3 hp router upgrade and some custom bits..almost all companies have one of these machines.....jackson has one that carves 2 necks at once......basically, its a stylus that moves over a object and a router comes and cuts a block of wood to match...im sure its not hard for a machine shop to make one, im sure ill draw up plans and have a local shop make another one

I have a few spots open now for various jobs in our shop, including a no experience needed apprentice. If you live in Maryland, this is a good oportunity to learn guitar making and manufacturing on a large scale. email info@vh-guitarstore.com for more information and specific requirements. Only email will be responded to, no PMs please

well, you can get smaller tone blocks for your floyd..they make a lot of different sizes

should i set aside some space for it dave?

they did that a long time ago when they went to pointy necks...grover felt that the fender pocket was too narrow

the standard neck pocket width is 2 3/16 inch......however, some companies like jackson use 2 1/4 inch now.....i wouldnt sweat out a il play in the pocket.....the reason holes arent drilled in replacement necks is because you cant drill them until you have the guitar assembled with strings as to line up the neck

its a great combination...maple and alder are THE tones of rock...i cant think of any cons...youll be able to rout anything you wish on it.....go for it

yeah dont use pine too soft....look for 8/4 or larger wood....you can have them finish it to 1.75 inches for a few dollars.....thats what size you want

check out the chapman stick......thats all about 2 handed tapping

i dunno about that, i think thats a no no....but someone else may know for sure, i dont remember...youre better off using urethene clear, its way better than lacquer

mine too...is it considered a binge if you never stop?

yeah i like that blueish one....thats kinda neat finish....hey i was just explaining polyester....in my world, time is money and i hate sanding....sometimes i combine the 2; useing polyester sanding sealer(which gives a glass smooth finish) urethene paint and then polyester clear....but again, the only time i sand is at the sanding sealer stage....there isnt a reason to any other time..the only hard part with polyester is well first getting used to shooting it and then at the buffing stage....cuz once its catalyzed, its like a rock.....jackson uses a stroke sander on theirs, which is over the top

pshhhh, sometimes the tree sprouted another candystriped guitar the other day

im using the same polyester that every guitar company, except gibson, uses..... your schedule has a lot of sanding and a lot of coats and a lot of sanding between coats.....you may want to upgrade your gun, you should be able to lay down urethane and epoxy primer(which is also the sealent) without any sanding...allthough a lot of people scuff sand reall quick with 1000 grit, but you really dont need to as long as you keep going with polyester, the schedule is polyester sanding sealer, sand to 400, paint, clear(which is done in sages every 15 minutes, starting with a tack coat and ending with a 4 th or 5th flow coat)...it flows out pretty smooth...then wetsand and buff.....it produces an indestructable clear coat thats resistant to scratches polyester cures anywhere from a few hours to a day depending on temp.....pot life is about 40 minutes....the best thing about polyester is you dont have to worry about anything, no fisheyes, craters, peel, fogging whatever...it pretty much bonds with everything...but you do have to have the right equipment and know how to use it....and there will be a learning process at first where it seems impossible

i do love him, he is my baby