AlGeeEater

OK, I'm keeping the same neck, i'll porblay get a headstock plate and somehow get it to be curvey like the strat headstocks near the truss rod adjustment.

Uh, this was like the 1st post man. But then there's this:

So when does the competition start eh?

I dont think i'll be drying my 2x4's, straight up wood I actually think most of my 2x4's are pretty dry, they're all atleast 10 years old.

2X4 special no doubt. I think it should be made from ALL 2X4's that would be kinda cool. Body, neck, fretboard, headstock. I'm all for the 2X4 for one

I'm interested very much interested in it! Hows it on durability/buffing?

OK, I need your opinion guys. I was cutting the headstock out today, to the proper depth. I got it to 1/2" thick, but then took the sander to it to get some chatter marks out of it. Now it's about 7/16" at the skinniest point. I mean, if it's too thin, tell me. I have no problem getting a new neck. Hell, if I work on it Thursday afternoon I can probaly get the neck neck at the same stage this necks on. It's no big deal, but overnight shipping is a bitch http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/AlG...er/DSC01964.jpg It looks fine, it's just too thin I'm afraid...

If you're looking for a nice hard, easy to sand, easy to buff, GREAT gloss finish look into McFadden's Nitrocellulose Lacquer. I pretty much swear by it (because I cannot shoot polys until I build my spray booth) because it's great stuff! You can buy a gallon of it from LMII. I've actually been looking into purchasing other brands though. Nitro just isnt durable enough for me and I was looking at some either pre-cat lacquer or polys (again, once I get a booth set up $$$ ). Any recommendations on some hard(er) nitro guys? Edit: I painted this strat with McFaddens Nitro lacquer (please excuse the cheesey pickguard, I've since changed it to a classic white one): Keep in mind, most of the gloss, hardness and ease of buff is how you buff, how you apply it and how long you let it dry (infrared heat lamps rule ). http://www.frenchpolishes.com/products/ac2...at_promatch.htm Is that the acid-cat stuff you're talking about?

Dye black/sand back/dye purple It looks good man, very clean work!

I've gotten a 3/8 bit, but it was too big with the bearing on it, so I just used a 1/4. I think I'll put the 3/8 bit back on with the bearing and route it correctly, I didnt even think of that man, thanks for it. It's not, it's just not sitting back far enough, I wish I could show you what I mean, but it's kinda hard. When I fix it you will be like "Ohhh!" Thanks.

Setch- Now that you mention that, it DOES look like a horses head. I really didnt have that in the plans, but I just wanted the headstock to flow with the body. I think this calls for a Galloping Horse inlay at the 12th fret huh? I agree, Crafty. Horses, country music, they go hand in hand! Jay 5- I'm going to do it freehand. I'm not going the whole slot, just near the anchor by the headstock. It needs to be a little bit deeper. I can still set up a fence though if I need it, but i'll give free hand routing a try. Truss rod already looks free hand routed already though.

Thanks a lot! 3-Day weekends rock man, i've made a ton of progress in just 3 days, i'm off to study know though, damn exams. Here's a full pic so you can get an idea of the body with the headstock. I probaly wont update this thread until thursday afternoon, my last exam is on thursday. Plus then I have friday off and another 3 day weekend

Hughes-Yeah, having your own tools and workshop is great! You know exactly where everything is, and you dont have to waste 5 minutes looking for a tool or anything, it's great. Guitar Frenzy- Yeah the Robo-Sander is nice. No burn out, tear out, ect. Plus it gets you right to the template with a pretty smooth sanded surface(granted i'm using the 80 grit sleeve, but I can still sand it with 100 or 150 on the random orbital). I just finished routing the neck pocket out a few hours ago. I routed it to 5/8 deep using the template bit and did shallow passes and it came out perfect: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/AlG...er/DSC01944.jpg The after my lunch break I started working on getting the heel to fit into the neck pocket. I just used 150 grit sandpaper on my random orbital and kept it moving not stopping in one spot, or letting the sandpaper cut in anywhere. I got a pretty good fit: Except, I have to mod the neck pocket. The bearing on my bit was too big for the rounded edge corners, so my neck doesnt sit flush with the back of the neck pocket: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/AlG...er/DSC01951.jpg I'll just use some sandpaper or a file to bring the corners in and it will be perfect. I'm probaly going to study for my exam tomr for a few hours, then possibly glue in the fretboard after routing the truss rod channel deeper.

Thanks! Anyways, I just finished cleaning up the neck and headstock. The headstock will need a lot of hand sanding though. I didnt have a template, and just went at it by hand with the Robo-Sander. Here's the new and improved "AlGee-Stock" headstock, I really like it!! I think it will flow nice with the body http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/AlG...er/DSC01942.jpg I'm off to finish the neck pocket now, and route the truss rod a little bit deeper. Then possibly i'll glue on the fretboard.

OK, today I got the neck cut out, and am in the process of using the Robo Sander to bring it flush to the template. Basically I am just using the Robo-Sander as of now to get pretty close to the line. Then i'll double stick tape the template on, match the centerlines and bring it flush to the template. No burns, tear out or chips with the Robo-Sander It' just me, the Robo-Sander, the 21 degree weather and the cold garage floor. I hope I dont get sick! Here's the neck rough cut out: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/AlG...er/DSC01923.jpg I changed the "AlGee-Stock" a bit with the help of my friends at UG. I didnt change it in that pic, but you guys will see it. I'm off to my Grandpa's for his birthday. When I get back I hope to get the neck flush, drill the tuner holes, and maybe route the neck pocket (still )

Well I just spent 2 hours in the garage routing, in the cold, dark plus the raining outside. Got the truss rod routed for, started the neck pocket. I need to make a copy of the neck pocket on the template though, all my bits are too big and the template is too skiny. OK, since I have ALL day tomr to work on this I will cut the neck out, install the truss rod, glue on the fretboard, finish the neck pocket and route out the control cavity. I just hope it's not as cold as they say it's gunna be tomr.

I got the fret press caul and 4 inserts. I dont need to get the whole arbor thing, it's a waste of money if you gotta drill press.

OK, I just measured everything, and I believe i'm going to have to recess the bridge 3/16". Can anybody check this for me? Specs: neck pocket depth: 5/8" neck thickness w/ fretboard: 15/16" fret height: .048" (not counting after levelling the frets) bridge height: .59" (or 19/32) <~Just a rough estimation because I dont have the bridge. I used stew-mac and added up the sizes w/ the posts and such. If anyone can double check that for me i'd appreciate it

I am. I have all the measurements(minus the bridge) so I believe I can do it. I'm actually doing all of this in a geometry program from a few years ago at school

OK, I worked out the problems with the Robo-Sander. I sent an e-mail to Ken Picou(the creator of the Robo-Sander and the Luthiers Friend Sanding station) and it turns out I was just running it TOO slow, so it wobbled. I was running my drill press at 590 RPM, but I moved the belt up and now it's running at 1390 RPM no problems I've also been fooling around with my fret press in my drill press too on a scrap board. Man, fretting is pretty simple using a press OK question: I'm not going with a neck angle because I want to recess my TOM. Now, should I route the neck pocket out (5/8"), cut the neck out, glue the fretboard on and THEN do my fullsize drawing to calculate the depth of the recess? Or should I try and figure that out before doing anymore work. (I've searched, but I couldnt really find anything on the order of steps. I assume it wouldnt really matter as long as everything is correct?). Thanks

Wrong shank size? Well, I was thinking that the shank on the Robo-Sander was machined wrong, or i'm doing something wrong. Maybe it's my drill press

Thanks! I should have the truss rod routed out tomr., the neck cavity, the neck cut out/shaped and possibly the fretboard glued on. I just got a Robo-Sander today, put it in my drill press and it wobbles like hell. Is this normal? I mean, none of my drill bits wobble or anything, hell I even put one of my router bits in there. Any ideas guys?? All help is appreciated!

Cover the truss rod slot with masking tape. Then cut around it with a razor blade, so it's still covering the truss rod, but there's more wood-glue contact. Did I explain that clearly?

I cleaned up the body today. Just a few little bits of tear out on the edges, nothing which cant be fixed in the finishing stages though I also chipped my template and the body a bit when the clamp moved on me when I was routing. Again, nothing that cant be fixed Tomr I plan to route the truss rod channel, cut the neck out, glue on the fretboard and sand the body a bit.

loudandproud- I will be using a "template" bit. Basically, I'll double stick tape and clamp the template to the body, and use the router with a template bit which is just what ZoSo_Spencer said. I'll then flip the body over and use the flush trim bit to get the excess(my template bit isnt long enough, oh well!). Yeah the templates are nice, I love them!