fuzzjunkie

Hey all, I'm about ready to start a refinish on a SG and I'm going to the Tru Oil route this time. Sorry. Nothing fancy this time. I busted me arse last year on a Cherry laquer before I knew the pitfalls of Deft (I need the little smily that slaps his head here). I'm not grain filling, just a few coats of Tru Oil to seal it up. How long should one wait before putting it back together and back to playing. I'm not very greasy, but I can get a little sweaty...

Thanks for tips Wez. I did use the iron and they came right out without too many offending odors. I'll try working the slots with a little CA, they didn't chip out bad at all but they still look like they need a little reinforcement. I have no excuse for the fact I rushed putting the frets in. When people say make the fretboard as flat as possible, heed their words. I had a rise at both ends of the board. This go-around I used an extruded aluminum channel that covered the whole length of the board. I tried to take off too much meat the first time with the StewMac radius blocks.

Ok, I'm getting ready to rip out a fret job for the second time. It was just flat-out rookie mistakes on the first one try and I'm finding as I grind the second set into oblivion, that my fretboard isn't quite as flat as I thought. Since crap like that drives me crazy, I need to level the board. Since this was the second set of frets, I used CA to help hold the frets. Can I use the soldering iron method to loosen the frets? I don't know if heat releases CA. Second, should I fill the slots completely and resaw them? That sounds good to me, but I'm not sure what to fill the slots with. Should I use an epoxy, Titebond or even better, some sort of hardwood veneer? Thanks for the answers!

It's pretty spooky how good some overseas guitars are. Like ER said, stuff is the $300-$600 is pretty darn nice. I'm sure the discriminating player would never go for it, but it's good enough for me. Even with slave labor, I don't know how some of the places build guitars so cheap.

Hey Stereo, Thanks for the reply, I tried to glob it in like you said and also thinned it with some naphtha and didn't have much luck. The pores are really, really tiny at this point, and since it was a faded finish to begin with, I don't think I'm going to sweat it. The sanding sealer did about 90% of the job anyway. I really looks nice to me, and I'm going to spray the color soon. Thanks!

Hey All, I'm finally to the scary stuff on a SG refinish. I've got some of the goopy Law-Mac black grain filler that I wanted to use on the mahogany. I played with the sanding sealer/filler combo on some scrap and I'm going for the sealer first then the filler. Two concerns: How much should I thin the filler? Do I keep it a pasty consistency or thin all the way to a brushable level? Will the lacquer thinner in the filler wreak havoc on the sealer and soften it or lift it? Thanks!

Hey Everybody! I've been stalking you guys for quite a while now as I work on a Faded finish SG. I replaced the fretboard/inlays/frets (that's another story itself!) a few weeks ago with help from the great tutorials on here and now I'm to the finish stage. I liked the faded thing just fine (never thought I would like a paint-less guitar). I thought the feel and look of the grain was great and the projection of the guitar was incredible. I new I would never be able to match the neck back to the body color, so I went ahead and sanded the whole thing. Here's what I'm wondering.... With the grain being so prominent and the color/clear sanding through so easily, would you reckon that they didn't use any grain filler or sanding sealer at all? It's not the most beautiful body, It's 4 pieces, otherwise I might just satin clear it. So, would shooting color straight on body look about the same? Thanks!