I was just pointing out that the glue with the longest track record isn't aliphatic resin, which has been around less than 50 years. I've used Titebond without problems, and I'm not saying it's worthless, but it seems to me that the reasons for not using hide glue have a lot more to do with convenience of application than with functionality. There are many old pieces of furniture many centuries old that are still holding (with the original glue joints). Keep in mind that the joints in a violin that fail are designed to give when they do, and are frequently glued with a weaker glue for this reason. If the top of your instrument shrinks at a different rate than the ribs, which would you prefer to have break? Gluing a loose seam is much easier than dealing with cracks.
Hide glue sets by a two-stage process. The first stage is when the glue cools and gels. That holds the joint together. The second stage is evaporation, during which the glue shrinks. Many violin makers actually use this property to glue the center joint in a top or back with no clamps, in what's known as a "rubbed" joint. You put glue on the mating surfaces, rub the pieces until the glue grabs, and let it dry. The shrinking pulls the joint tighter, and these joints can and do easily hold for hundreds of years. Heat alone won't separate the pieces, but introducing lots of moisture can, so if you want to play in a sauna, maybe hide glue isn't for you. Then again, if your instrument is exposed to those conditions, you're likely to have plenty of other problems besides the glue.
If anyone wants to try hide glue, you can get it through most woodworking stores. Woodcraft carries the Behlen brand, which is the same stuff Stewart Macdonald sells, and it's pretty good. Don't bother with the electric glue pot; you can make a better one in a few minutes from a Rival Hot Pot or an electric coffee pot.