eddiewarlock

Rob got my vote, not because the other guitars were not awesome, but his was the pointy guitar!! it's like now you have to be brave enough to enter a pointy axe in the GOTM!!

I feel bad for you, filing and sanding all that purpleheart. You couldn't pay me enough to do that job hahaha, purpleheart is not that bad!! I just use a rasp to carve purpleheart necks and a spokeshave, i don't think it's THAT hard sanding it is way harder though...but still

Ok I laminated a new neck and it's almost ready, in fact i could glue up the wings right now if it wasn't for a small problem: I laminated a 3 pieces neck, purpleheart, mahogany, purpleheart, so, they measure : 2.1 cm, 2 cm, and 2,7 cm, usually i like to have like all 3 sides of the same width or , have the outer pieces wider than the center one, but of the same width ( Ex. Pupleheart 2,5, mahogany 2cm, and purpleheart 2,5 cm) , my question is, does it affect the neck lamination in any way that one of the outer laminates is wider than the other one? ( the other purpleheart one) I don't joint my necks, i always take them to a wood shop and i'm around to explain the guys what to do, this time, this happened... I don't wanna add stringers like a bc rich, i mean, that would be a solution, i could have the other side paned to 2,1 cm, add stringers to compensate width and that'd be cool, but i really don't wanna do it... Thanks guys

Jup, that is essential. By reversing one of the pieces you will have the laminations countering the movement of the opposite laminate. Thought experiment: Split a blank in two. Lay them down as they were before you split them. Turn one of them upside down. Glue them together. Now if the left lam would like to bend one end up (due to changes in humidity or whatever) the other lamination will try to bend the same end down. In a perfect world those forces will equalise each other and the blank will remain straight. That's what i did with this last lamination, i drew up arrows indicating the direction of the grain so i wouln't mess that up when i had the separate pieces so far so good, i just umclamped it...oh and i glued it with epoxy 2 ton epoxy by devcon

Hmmm i mentioned those levels because that's what was on the weather channel, i have no moisture meters... probably is stored tension, because the mahogany blank has moved towards one side, not much, i checked it, but hell it is laminated, i didn´t however, laminated the pieces with the grain running against each other, what i did was split the piece by the half and glue another piece in the middle, guess i should re do it and this time turn that side around? Week to week avergaes i don't know, it's been a pretty irregular season, it didn't rain for like a month, then rained a lot a week, then 2 weeks with no rain, then 2 days in a row raining, and so it goes...no idea on how much it is now though... my house is 2 stories high, the upper story is what i would call the attic, that's where i keep my wood, it's hot, and i would say dry, but you know there are windows...and even though they are closed all the time they aren't airtight...from time to time we turn the a/c on, but just to cool it off, we never let it on that much of a time to drastically chage the temp, the avg temp on there should be around 75- 77 ºF...i keep the wood in a room where the air conditioner doesn't get there ( no vents there) I have never had that kind of problem in a laminated neck, but granted, i never had a neck blank with glue lines...maybe it's that?

Well that mahogany, despite being very high quality, had always had issues with movement, very weird, since mahogany is one of the most stable woods available ( and yes it is mahogany ) that's how i started laminating necks, to avoid this problem, so i used that mahogany, laminated it and problem solved. The neck is still stable and straight as an arrow. So i used the last piece i had, it had moved a bit but well, it had sit for 4 years so i thought that was normal, I surfaced both sides, planed it, sliced down the middle and glued another piece ( from another blank a bit older than that piece) and glued the whole thing together. I used regular titebond for this blank, the wood joint looks very good, no glue lines and almost invisible wood joints, i planed the fretboard surface and the oppossite to it, but left the sides untouched, well, about 4 months later, the neck blank has moved to one side, it's not much, but you can clearly see it, same as with the purpleheart neck blank. So i guess the wood wanted to move anyways, but hell, it's dry, straight grained, laminated, and it's the last piece i have ( mahogany can't be found here anymore ) What i'll try to do is, finish the neck blank, plane both side and see if it moves again, if it does....then i guess i should toss it to the bin... With the purpleheart blank i used high quality wood glue, not titebond since it can't be found here, but i've never had a problem with it, it's PVA glue, and it smells the same as titebond, except it is white. The new neck i'll build, i'll use 2 ton epoxy, slow curing, made by Devcon...

i drew up a line between the jack output and the pickup cavity and held my breath hehehe

well, the purpleheart was figured, it was very straight grained but figured, not much but the figure was there, also, there were small glue line between the joints, the laminated pieces were3 pieces of 2 cm wide each... Moisture, i think that's the problem, it's been raining like crazy all these days, and while my guitar was inside my house, there's no way to let the moisture out..but during the construction of the neck there wasn't raining, so the neck was complete when it moved on me Also, i laminated a mahogany blank ( south american mahogany) a few months ago, and no, it wasn't humid while i made it, 3 pieces of quartersawn, very straight grained mahogany, the outerpieces are like an inch wide, and the center one is 1.5 cm and it has moved sideways as well...so that's why i asked if the carbon fiber would work...there's no need to mention and it's also very dry, when i bought it it was around 10% humidity content maybe 8% and the pieces of 6 cm x 4 cm x 100 cm sat in my house for 4 1/2 years...

it didn´t twist but moved to one side, towards the bass side....

Ok, I'm about to place an order on stew mac to buy carbon fiber reinforcements, would a couple carbon fiber rods help in keeping the neck from moving sideways??? I use 2 way truss rods so i can adjust the neck if it moved up or down, but, i need now to be sure the neck won't move sideways... thanks guys! And yes, the neck wood is dry, but i had to toss a laminated 3 piece purpleheart neck to the bis, because it moved sideways ...it was quartersawn and all...dry as a bone...and it moved

ahhh i was looking for this guy and couldn´t find him! thanks, i better buy some inlays sets quick! thanks again man!

Link please?

probably! BTW i checked ebay, and i barely could find any inlays at all! i typed sharkfin inlay, trapezoid inlay, and cloud inlay and nothing came up. I checked with the sellers i know carry the stuff, and they had one or two sets of inlays available, man, they used to have like 20 different sets at least!! probably they´ve gotten a cease and desist letter??

a friend of mine has that template, thanks for the offer i have the copies of the outline of the birds, BUT i refuse to cut inlays after having a hard time cutting bc rich style diamond inlays with stew mac's saw, i just ditched it and cut them with a Dremel which worked 10000 times better ( those inlays are tricky cuz they are curved) so i figured that if the saw broke all the time with a fairly simple inlay pattern i didn't want to go thru that hell again with PRS style birds. And i do like that crap called pearloid hehehe i try to be as enviroment friendly as possible, so if i can use a substitute then i'm happy. Besides, i don´t think the pearloid looks bad

I wanna buy the PRS birds inlays but i can't find them anywhere, i looked on ebay and nothing i just want a set in pearloid, also do you know of a place other than ebay to buy pearloid trapezoid, sharkfin and cloud inlays, thanks!

so that means the actual ghost flames are painted on??? cool i plan to paint blue ghost flames on my RG 7 string project Jacksons have the best graphics available on production guitars

Finished!!! I still need to wet sand it and buff it, but it looks great!! gotta love touch up guns!

The rhoads ( and the F series bass too) is painted, tomorrow i'll lay the clear coat

acrylic paint, even if it's automotive grade, will chip very quickly without a clear coat, you'll be better off buying a router a set of binding channel routing tips and binding and apply real binding to it, you are really setting yourself up for something horrible...

This really answers my question. So, it appears that the only way to apply a faux binding is to paint it on, no? OK, sure it will wear off. Any ways to prevent this from happening? Any tips on how exactly to apply the "binding" so to make the trasition smooth and not-annoying to the thumb? Apply clear coat over it? And it's absolutely true that I will not decompose a healthy neck and go through the re-retting hell just to install binding. Thanks Go play an USA made Jackson, with binding, then tell me how the binding annoys your thumb I don't feel a difference between bound and un bound necks, BUT I love the way bound necks love, so all my guitars have bound necks

I had problems with the F series bass, so i chopped the wings off and reglued them, and started again, this is the primer coat, and also, my rhoads, primer coat too. Ok, started applying primer to a couple guitars ... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v313/edd.../IMAG0002-9.jpg The F series looks good, the Rhoads too, they are as smooth as a baby's cheek, but , after i applied the primer, the joint developed thermoplastic creep; the thinner makes the primer cold, so while it doesn't really bothers me on the F series bass because it will be painted silver, the rhoads will be black...tomorrow i'll apply one or two more coats of primer, sand and leave it for tuesday when i'll lay on the color coat(s) i plan to apply metallic black, sand everything to 600 grit, apply another coat, sand again, apply another coat and sand again, until i don't see the damn creep...then lay the clear coat, let it dry for 2 weeks,flatsand it and clear coat again, let it dry for another week and buff it...if the damn creep still shows, then i'll remove the paint, and paint it white with black bevels.

I soooooo hate that they won't give measurements in both systems...but well im used to convert measurements all the time

No they were very well planed and i did sand them a bit with 80 grit sandpaper i think it was the glue, and the weather maybe, extremely hot and humid...

Maybe the glue was faulty, but anyways, i stripped the bass completely and i'll either unglue the wings witb steam or have them cut off with a bandsaw, either way, this bass will be perfect as it was meant to be

Yup, i'm even thinking of using epoxy for solid paint jobs, it's jsut that i hate epoxy, it's such a messy glue...and smelly..ugh but for this bass if my bass player says go for iti'll use epoxy to glue back the wing. A shame cuz the bass looks incredible but what are you gonna do if you want perfection? Ñ=