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boundsteelblues

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Everything posted by boundsteelblues

  1. boundsteelblues
    "and then cut it to the shape of the neck with a template bit" this is what I needed - the books had me confused on how to get the fretboard to shape
  2. boundsteelblues
    What I mean is that outline. Do you rough cut a little bit outside for both neck and fretboard and then attched them using the blocks? I can draw and cut my exact shape on the neck wood. Once the fretboard is glued on though, how do I have an outline to refine by?
  3. boundsteelblues
    I'm unclear on when to attached a pre-radiused fretboard. Should I rough cut both neck and fretboard and then glue it on? I have the picture from Koch's book for the clamping caul for a radiused fretboard. I guess my biggest quesiton is how I get the template draw back on there. From the back of the neck? Hope I'm clear and thanks.
  4. boundsteelblues
    makes a lot of difference to me great job
  5. boundsteelblues
    Les Paul Junior Single Cutaway Template I can only find the double cutaway online. Anyone know where to find the single?
  6. boundsteelblues
    Great job! I am really impressed and inspired.
  7. boundsteelblues
    I'm actually in North Carolina this week, plan on hitting some of the lumber suppliers around as it seems all the places on eBay I find are in N.C.
  8. boundsteelblues
    Doeringer Fixed Hardtail Bridge Has anyone used these? Any good?
  9. boundsteelblues
    Here's the link. I had searched on flat sawn quarter sawn to get information about them. http://musikraft.3dcartstores.com/Quarter-...n_c_14-1-1.html
  10. boundsteelblues
    The wood for my neck is a piece of flat sawn tiger maple. I was going to use a stew-mac hotrod 2 way 1/8" adjustable truss rod, but then I ran across the comment below online. Do I need to rethink and go with the basic one way truss rod? I was doing a straight headstock. "The Flat sawn neck tends to have a more mellow tone and is more pliable so it is better for use with vintage style, single acting truss rods and does very well with a hard finish but can also be left unfinshed as well."
  11. boundsteelblues
    Amazing neck. Keep the pics coming.
  12. boundsteelblues
    What you say is good news. The instructions I had made me think 1" was necessary. I am doing a straight headstock with a stew-mac hot rod truss rod.
  13. boundsteelblues
    I have a 7/8" piece of tiger maple. I was thinking of gluing on a 1/8 piece or something else between it and the fretboard to take it to 1" total. THe idea being it would look like a binding besides giving me the usual 1". Any thoughts on this idea or wood to use?
  14. boundsteelblues
    I'm speechless.
  15. boundsteelblues
    Definitely 2
  16. boundsteelblues
    I'd like the pickguard a deeper color as well. Maybe pull the red back in for balance.
  17. boundsteelblues
    I haven't tried them yet, but Sears sells some jigsaw blades that purport to be made specifically for hardwoods.
  18. boundsteelblues
    Thanks for the input!
  19. boundsteelblues
    What routed channel? A top-loading hardtail requires no routing. Unless you're talking about the Stewmac bridge (it would really help if you tell us what you're talking about), in which case, their specs are listed in the ad. I apologize that I was not clear enough for you. Yes, the Stew-Mac. The specs are of the bridge.
  20. boundsteelblues
    Anyone have a pic of what the routed channel should look like that I can use for dimensions?
  21. boundsteelblues
    I've only built cigar box guitars and mountain banjos so forgive me if I speak incorrectly. I'm just starting on the plans to build solid body electrics. I have a beautiful tiger maple board that is 1-3/4" thick, 11-1/8" wide and 45" + in length. With regard to width for a solid body with a standard neck, what are the common sense aspects of the body that I need to think about? Is a body in a 10-11" width with standard neck acceptable? If anyone can recommend measurements it is wise to stay within or point me to links of similar designs, I'd appreciate it. I imagine the neck as having a peghead. Most of what I've been able to search online has referenced a headless design. I don't really want to go that route, though I like the compactness of the idea. Or should I look for a piece of wood to glue in the middle and use the maple as wings?
  22. boundsteelblues
    Is 1-1/8" too thin to start with for the bottom board and 7/8" too thick for the top. This is before any planing. The book I have has a bottom body part of 1-5/8" and 1/4" for the top.
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