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thedoctor

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Everything posted by thedoctor

  1. thedoctor
    I don't know. Maybe Varitone used variable caps but, to be honest, I never heard of Varitone. I just don't ever remember working on an axe that had variable capacitors. I have never seen var/caps in any schematic, either.
  2. thedoctor
    I built a new 12-string Tele for (NA) and had a tiny noise problem with the SD neck pickup. I goofed around with a bunch of disc caps and found I could almost eliminate the noise with a .002 mfd at the expense of a tiny bit of high/twang. While I was trying different values, I wondered if anyone has ever tried variable caps in their tone circuits. I know they aren't the most stable of active components but I can't help but think they might be an improvement over the RC networks currently used. Didn't someone used to use a rotary switch with about 6 different caps on each leg? For tone, I mean. Maybe beating a dead horse but thought I would ask.
  3. thedoctor
    So that means it is just like a regular topic but is put on the top so people don't ask the same question over and over?? Like I am?
  4. thedoctor
    Oops! Then the output of your preamp is really not set up for phantom power. I think it can be done but to figure it out you would have to tell me what the model of the preamp Washburn put in there is and maybe I could find a schematic. All my Shadows and EVs will take phantom power from the XLR connection and I don't have to take the batteries out or anything to use it so lets look.
  5. thedoctor
    I'm not up on a lot of this internet forum stuff but I wanted to know what a pinned topic is.
  6. thedoctor
    A lot of jacks have a problem that causes them to feel loose about 1/8" before completely inserted. In other words, they feel good and tight until they are pushed that last 1/8" in. Then they wiggle and swivel very easily. If dats da case, pull the jack out and bend the tallest finger of the jack towards the center until it is just a little bit of a bitch ALL THE WAY in and out. ElectroCraft makes a jack that doesn't have this problem but it's not really an issue 95% of the time.
  7. thedoctor
    A TRS plug can't complete the ground because the R to S connection isn't complete. Therefore, I recommend you take a close look at your manual for the preamp cause I think it MAY already take phantom power. That would be way cool! Please note that I said a TRS PLUG can't complete the ground. I'm sure your jack is a TRS. I just think your preamp may very well be set up to handle phantom power through the XLR connection. Check the manual or go online with the preamp maker.
  8. thedoctor
    I forgot to relpy to this yesterday but I think I know what you want. Back in the mid-60s it was common to have black-lights onstage to make crap look cool and the one thing that looked the coolest was anything made of that glow-in-the-dark plastic stuff. This same stuff would glow all by itself for about 3 hours after exposure to bright light. I made a set of fretmarkers out of an old Sony remote control that had gone BO by punching circles out with a leather punch and filing them to size. Not too many busted remotes sitting around so I found these glow-in-the-dark light switch covers at TruValue and started using them. They are already really thin and punch very nicely. Is that what you were thinking about?
  9. thedoctor
    You got two real booger places for stripped wood screw threads. The jackplate is in the endgrain of the body and it hates threaded fasteners. If the wood left in the hole looks like a powdery mess, go with Nalo's fix of good wood glue and as many toothpicks as you can stuff in there. Let dry for 2 days. 2 days. 2 days. As for the cavity cover, go for longer screws. Did I mention, let the glue for 2 days?
  10. thedoctor
    There is plywood and there is plywood. Whenever you laminate a top or put a carved top on a routed body you are making "plywood" but you are making very good plywood. Even the "void-free" cabinet-grade stuff isn't near good enough to make a musical instrument. Years ago, you could buy cross-grained mahogany plywood that was good enough to make a shopclass mandolin or balalaika but it probly was a waste of time for anything truely "musical". The material used by modern Chinese producers is as much binder as wood, as far as integrity goes, and I really don't have any issues with it. The 5-ply and 7-ply stuff they make just for their own use seems to be very stable and attractive. Saves them money and shows up as lower prices for us. Pretty cool.
  11. thedoctor
    I like the idea of drilling as many holes as you can without breaking through to the hole next to it. With one of those Forstner(?) bits you should be able to clear a lot of shavings with complete control. My main concern would be the strength of the neck pocket after you have cut this thing into three pieces(right beside the neck) and put it back together. What will keep the back of the neck pocket solidly attached to your two "wings"? I might reccomend a pair of "biscuits", if you know what I mean. Those semi-circular joining pieces of wood you use to make strong glue joints. I bring this issue up because of an earlier error I made when routing pickup pockets that thinned this area to the point where I had strength issues.
  12. thedoctor
    Dugz has hit on the real problem with thin gold-plate. It is actually porous(tho it shouldn't be) and the damage that results in lost plating comes from beneath. The thin laquer WILL seal the porosity but it also wears off. I rely on liberal waxing(carnuba?) and cleaning with an old, clean flannell shirt. Still have a well-worn late 50's Gibson with the factory gold intact so it is working for me.
  13. thedoctor
    aS ORGMORG STATED, BEECH TAKES AND HOLDS(turned caps off) curves very well and is quite stable. I think I said in an earlier post that it is rare to find beech with any character but if it's gonna be used for a back you might want to sacrifice some of the asthetics for stability. Make it a little plainer, but stronger. Beech is kinda cool wood.
  14. thedoctor
    Beech is a fine wood for solid-bodies but does have end-grain finishing issues. It needs a little extra care during filling/sealing stage to keep it looking consistent. I would consider you lucky if you found a piece with nice spalding and character. As always, avoid all heartwood.
  15. thedoctor
    You guys are !$H<ing me!! No I meant
  16. thedoctor
    Lovecraft, I just saw that you have the little "registered Trademark" logo in your replies. Where the crap is that on the keyboard? yOU GOTTA TELL ME CAUSE i'M GONNA LOSE SLEEP! See how good I am with a computer?
  17. thedoctor
    I thought I had posted a reply to this about a month ago but I don't see it so here goes: The custom paint shop I worked in as a teen always kept their wet/dry in a sink full of dishsoap and water 24/7. I never questioned this practice cause I didn't want to look stupid but the shop-owners son showed me that the soaked paper wouldn't wrinkle or crease like fresh paper did, thereby giving you little scratches to try to get rid of. Convinced me but I still don't know the logic behind it.
  18. thedoctor
    Hate to drag this old post back up but I have found my problem! Too much light! My granddaughter came in and took about 20 shots of my stuff with my old Mavica and let the flash "fill" as she calls it with no extra photo lights or anything. They all look great and I will post all the photos I owe people as soon as my SON gets off his butt and shows me how. Kids these days!
  19. thedoctor
    Two-bolt taper-lock like the new bolt-on acoustic necks, I guess. Should be rigid as hell and take care of those pesky 1/16" intonation errors also. Save ya from relocating your new bridge. Maybe not.
  20. thedoctor
    See attn: Lovecraft on page 2 of this thread.
  21. thedoctor
    Put this one to rest. No.
  22. thedoctor
    I'd be tempted to leave it for now. A lot of guitars have space between the fretboard and the body. Maybe one of the other forumers have a reason to lower it.
  23. thedoctor
    WAY COOL link!! That guy has some real hardware that serves a purpose!! Gotta luv it!
  24. thedoctor
    Thin where? I ask that cause there are not very many places that need to be all that thick but the ones that need beef, NEED BEEF. I over-routed a pickup pocket for a neck humbucker and didn't realize what I had done until the finish checked on the backside of the neck pocket. Can't never trust that guitar again. Everytime I open the case I expect to see a jumble of loose strings. MAJOR bummer.
  25. thedoctor
    I would look at the ART Tube MP StudioV3 preamp. Tiny, cheap and clean. Good "voicing" for a preamp. Adjusts all over the place.
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