Andy

If you wanted to make the magnets stronger inside the pickups could you not use NdFeB (Neodymium Iron Boron) magnets that are supposedly about 7 times stronger than AlNiCo.. I've been meaning to ask about this any way, but has any one ever amde a pickup using these things?

Kisekae's flash program and paint, the results arent brilliant, but I wasnt expecting perfect life like graphics. http://www.nymphusa.com/kisekae/bookmark.asp

They look like Carvin Pickups.. judging by the 11 polepieces per coil. and the odd screwsetup on the mounting rings

When I first saw this bridge I was apprehensive. But on furtherlooking I'd like to install one on an upcoming guitar. the idea of being able to drop my tuning quickly mid song is appealing. So people. What are your thoughts on this little device?: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...gy_Bridges.html Its seems the only problem would be intonation. But if I'm only dropping at most a step, and its being used for live perfomrances I can't see that being much of a problem.

Well I've finally started my serious work towards my first guitar. I've bought a sheet of 39.5" x 9" x 0.6mm Bookmatched Birdeye/quilted maple veneer for the top. Which should leave easily enough to do the head stock as well. and some for colour testing. Something like this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/joenalex/12jan302.jpg I'm planning for a Maple or Mahogany laminated through neck (possibly mahogany/maple/mahogany/maple/magohany depending on the wood that I can find), with an ebony or rosewood fingerboard also depending on avaliability. And either 1 3/4" Basswood or Alder body wings (though I'm unsure about veneering over the arm contour I'd probably need with these). Or a thin 1" mahogany body (which won't require an arm contour but will make it a heavier guitar) The body shape is a standard Super-Strat style. Fixed 6-string bridge with Dimarzio Air norton/Tonezone pickups (which I will face with the stained maple). With a shared volume and tone, Split/series/parallel switches independantly for both, and a 3 way neck/both/bridge switch. I'm going to finish the top in blue deep stained (like carvin CT6 triple step). And I'm going to do the back and sides in black. And I'll veneer the headstock and just do it to match the body Here are my questions: When finishing the back. I'm unsure as to how to continue up the neck.as i dont want to hide the neck wood. Should I mask a straight line and leave the neck natrual wood coloured, Like: http://students.washington.edu/naf/photo/g...s/CRW_3900.html Or feather the back colour into the neck. again leaving it wood coloured, Similar to: http://www.jdmusic.com/Ibanartbassbk.jpg I'm liking the first as It'll be easier especially when it comes to finishing it (gloss for the body and possibly tung oil or satin for the neck) Should I paint the body black before or after I've Done the veneer in blue (mask the body to stain it. or mask the veneer to spray it) Has any one got any tips on doing a multi step saining on bird eye veneer (starting black. then blue black mix, then blue, with a light sanding inbetween). Does the birdeyeing change the way it works and take in dye compared to quilted maple. Should I veneer the body first then cut the slot for the fret board and add that afterwards? or should I attach the fretboard, then veneer. Bearing in mind I'll probably be shaping the neck after the board is installed to get a profile like my current guitar. Edited to add "Photoshop" image http://www.freewebs.com/xanders__ramblings...ltguitarJPG.jpg

Apparently the fabric matches mr Vai's curtains... Not sure where I read that I think it was on jemsite. So unless he had it custom created there must be somewhere that makes it.

I don't know much about amps but it sounds like it could be a grounding problem. I get the pop and lack of buzzing on my guitar that sounds like you describe.

How wide are standard 8 string necks? Are they comparable to 6 String Bass necks?

Sorry to bring this back but do you still have number 15 do you have any pictures of it?