Well, here's part of the control cavity as posted in the thread i have linked in my signiature
As you can see, its curved, and very thin. The control cavity isn't actually routed out as i don't have a routing table set up at this house. Actually, the one i was going to use as a routing table ended up getting sold by the Fiencee But that's okay, i'll just use her desk!
Here's a top pic of the body itself with both pickups out.
You can see the little tiny hole i was hoping to use located in the bridge pickup cavity between the maple and mahogany join on the bottom join. As you can see in the previous ic, its curved, so chances are that I won't make it through with a heated wire, unless i have enough patients and work teediously enough. Even then, i have to get into the control cavity, which is going to be located on the back just behind the 3 holes (they're faint in the above linked picture). I'm trying to conserve as much wood as possible here as well so i can keep a nice thick sound. This thing sounds amazing unplugged (not that i can plug it in right now lol)!
The glue is Titebond II
As far as setting the bass on fire, my finish may or may not include the use of fire lol. I'm probably going to go against it and just use a black stain instead though, as i hear fire raises grain and can cause cracks and a lot of other unpleasentness. Altering the chemical properties of the wood is one of them.
As far as the end pin goes, i'll be placing my strap pins after the body is done being contoured. I'm still penciling in contour lines right now, because i think this thing needs a bit more curve in it to bring out its true sexyness. Right now it looks like a fat chick with potential.
As it turns out, i've taken a picture of the back of the bass and posted it in the other thread as well. So here's that so you can all have a reference of where the control cavity is going to be, as well as the horrible tools i'm using for contouring work lol.