woodsman1031

If you do use a chisel on a pickup/neck/control cavity you need to drill it out as much as possible before. mark a bit to depth with masking tape and drill out as much as you can first. Them use a sharp chisel BY HAND not mallet as much as you can. You can do alot with a sharp chisel and NO mallet. Just whittle it. Using a mallet can put stress on a wing joint that 50 years of playing never could. The wing could literaly "fly" away. Please dont ask how I know this Try to get a router Tommy

Hello, I have never built a guitar with a zero fret before. I thought I understood them correctly, I thought the strings rested on the zero fret and the nut just held them in line. If the strings did not rest on the zero fret would intonation be incorrect due to the space between the nut and zero fret? if the zero fret was the same height as the rest, and the strings were not resting tight on the zero fret wouldnt it buzz when played open and or intonation be off? And it seems to me that if the strings were not resting on it, it would be useless This is just a theory that I have had in my mind a while but never put into practice. Someone straighten me out I never heard of a motorcycle with a zero fret Tommy

OHHH I see said the blind man! Sorry

WRONG! The scale length becomes the distance from the orignal board's first fret to the original bridge when using the first fret as a zero fret. We talked about this twice in the last week. If you search for it, you'll even find math to back it up. I am refering to him being able to use the scale that he purchased the board at. Tommy

if you use the stew-mac boards or any other supplier you cannot use the #1 fret for a zero fret. It will ruin the scale. You would need a board specifically cut for a zero fret or possibly get one for a fender style nut that is NOT nut slotted yet and cut you own zero fret in the nut area, but I dont reccomend this if this your first. The zero fret is like a nut and is where your scale starts, It is mostly used on high end guitars. It is simply a preference of some players. Remember that if you do use a zero fret you will need a TALLER fret for the zero fret. Hope this makes sense You can radius the frets by hand, its not that bad. ebony will not be any more difficult than the rosewood, IMO Tommy

Thanks Mike!

Thanks GarageRocker!! I found mine on the site, it was made in 1955. I was in a bit of a hurry and did not look for the owners manual are they on the same site? Thanks

Mike, Thanks for your help! the metal tag on the front reads "delta-milwaukee homecraft" the tag on the back reads "Rockwell, Delta power tool division" that is the only info on it. It is the type that mounts on a stand and the motor is on the stand connected with a belt. It is all steel and it weighs a TON! this thing is probably 50s or 60s vintage, my bandsaw is the exact same brand/vintage and my bandsaw could not serve me better, so I think this jointer/planer is worth setting up and learning to use. I can take a picture if you think it will help Thanks! Tommy

Hello Woodsmen, What part of East Texas are you in? Would a drive to Dallas be wayout for you to get some instruction? If not , and your jointer is a bench model.. (meaning you can bring it with you) I would be glad to help you set it up and teach you how to use it. PM me and let me know what I can do to help as, Hands on instruction with this will be your best bet as Jointers can be finicky and dangerous. Mike K Mike, I sure appreciate it but this is a floor model and believe it or not I am a Texan without a pickup! I am near Palestine if you ever happen to be down this way. Thanks Tommy

I have an old delta 4"jointer planer with a new baldor motor mounted on the stand connected with a belt. I bought this thing over a year ago and tried to use it but it keeps "sniping" is what I am told it is doing. Could someone please instruct me on how to use this tool. I dont know if the in and out table is adjusted correctly or how to feed it. I have been told I am not doing it correctly by local people but noone has ever instructed me on using it. I have not even tried it in a year, but I would love to be able to use it. I think it would be a great tutorial subject. Thanks

I have had this guitar strung and set up for about a week. I disassembled it this morning to finish it with danish oil, my pots came into today so I decided to wire in the tone while I had it apart.I had the pickup wired direct waiting for some pots to come in the mail. I made the saddle from a 1/4" thick piece of corian. I simply filed it to the 12" radius of my board and set up the action which required a bit more filing. After I had the action just about where I wanted it I began to tune and set intonation. The saddle is not yet anchored to the body so I moved the whole saddle to set intonation on the low e. I then guestimated the angle to "rough" set intonation on the other strings, I went through and checked and all were so close it was scary! I then cut string grooves in the saddle and with a needle file I "tweaked" the intonation. I then marked the body where the saddle was at, and "tweaked" the action. This whole process took less than an hour. I made this guitar with old parts/lumber laying around my shop. It really has been alot of fun improvising parts and trying ideas I always think of but never try. If I am able I will post some pics of it in a few days when the oil dries

Oh god, now who's going to pay for the keyboard after I just spewed Vernor's all over it? I'm not laughing at you, I'm laughing at the Corian bridge. It just complicates things a little being that you usually need to ground the strings. You're going to have to figure out a way to ground the electronics to the strings, highly shield the electronics cavity, or go for an all-active setup. How exactly do you have the strings mounted on the guitar? Also, the cap you're looking for is a .047 microfarad for a humbucker, or .022 mf for a single coil. Caps are farads, resistors, pots, and speakers are ohms. You'll use a 500k ohm pot for a humbucker, or 250k for a single coil. I have the strings running through ferrules in the body. I only have 500k pots what happens if I use it with the single pickup? Any suggestions for grounding the strings Thanks

The bridge on this one is made of corian {guess I should have mentioned that} what ohm capacitor should I use inline to the pot case? Thanks for the help

OOPS! I want a tone pot. Sorry

Hello, I have a project with 1 single pickup and I want a tone pot only on it. Could someone please direct me to a super easy schematic/drawing of this type of setup. Thanks

FYI: I slotted it tonight and strung it up. It worked just fine

I sawed it to length last night and filed down the edges. It is holding up so far, I have not put it on and slotted it yet. So far so good! PS: If it comes apart I am going to retry with super glue Tommy

I gave it a whirl with loc-tite brand clear epoxy, I use this epoxy on everything. I will let you know how it turned out in the morning. Tommy

I am needing an extra thick nut to cover something and I dont have any pieces of corian thick enough . Has anyone ever laminated corian. I always use clear epoxy to install nuts so I think the same epoxy would hold corian to corian. What do yall think? I appreciate your input!!! Tommy

I built one, works fine. ← Rocksolid, would you post some pictures or a tutorial on the miter box? Tommy

Did you use the brush on or spray can? I need to finish one and I am curious of your results! Tommy

Thanks Simo! Did you see the body templates at the top of that page? It looks like you could use 1 template for routing the neck pocket the pickup cavities and everything else. Has anyone out there ever tried that?

I have a bolt on neck that I want to route a body for. I have alot of scrap plexiglass that I found in an abandoned building. I am wanting to make a router template out of this stuff but I am concerned how I will cut the plexiglass without melting it. Also is there any type of allowances I should make when cutting out the heel shape in the plexi? Do I just trace out the heal and start cutting the plexi or is there some science to it? I have alot of this stuff and I guess I will make some pickup templates using the same techniques you all give. Thanks

Thanks , Have you tried the one built in the amp cord yet? Tommy