verhoevenc

I’m moving. I still have a few of these. You can have them FOR FREE but you have to pick them up (I’m way too busy to ship things now). I’m in the DC suburbs of Maryland. PM me if you’re interested. They get trashed mid-September.

I used titebond. It was the bamboo ply product from eco supply. Side note: the extra piece that was left over and hung out in my barn unfinished molded up FAST. Weird material... likely won’t use it again. Best, Chris

This guitar requires dues to be paid. I was highly intrigued by the aesthetic of Tao guitars' T-bucket instruments. I liked both the square, inlaid pickguard idea as well as their flare for not only juxtaposing color, but also textures, in their instruments. This was really fun to do here with the high-gloss blue stabilized buckeye burl inlaid "pickguard" square, contrasted with the muted, satin pewter finish elsewhere. I also wanted to test myself to see if I could create an instrument with Mustang-style switching but without the back cover plate that would have hindered my ability to have a robust belly carve. Can you figure out how I was able to get all those switches and pickups in there without a back cover plate? True to form for the mixture of Jaguar and Mustang elements on this build, it features a short 24" scale length. Many people have not played with these types of instrument,s but they are a great deal of fun. After building my first shortscale (a blue paisley offset) I just had to make another when that one left for it's new home. Specs: Neck- Wood: Flamed roasted maple Fretboard: East-Indian rosewood Scale: 24" Radius: 9.5" Nut Width: 1 11/16" Carve: Thin C Headstock: Straight string pull 3-a-side in pewter with flamed roasted maple wings Inlays: Blue stabilized buckeye burl dots with aluminum outlines Tuners: Hipshot open-back locking Body- Wood: Poplar "Pickguard": Blue stabilized buckeye burl Width: 13.5" Bridge: Fender adjustable mustang bridge and jazzmaster tremolo Finish: Satin, real pewter coat body, high-gloss lacquer "pickguard" square, and tru-oil neck Electronics- This guitar features 2 claw-less Jaguar pickups configured like a traditional "Mustang." The slide switches allow each pickup to be turned on/off and placed in or out of phase with one-another. Hope you like, Chris

Here is a completed 'stage acoustic' (read: 2" thick, fully hollowed out body, with true acoustic top) that I did for a local company. Company colors, theme, logo, etc. Working with the celluloid pearl was a first, and definitely not a last as I've come to really like the material. Specs: Engelmann spruce top, sapele body and neck, rocklite Ebano fretboard and bridge. 25.4" scale, 16" radius fretboard. K&K piezo pickup. More details here: Gallery and Details This was a fun project that has sparked a LOT of new ideas in my head. When I saw just how loud it turned out, it told me just how powerful a thin-bodied acoustic concept can be... and just how fun that platform can be to mess with. Hopefully get some personal-project time soon to continue playing with these ideas. Best, Chris

I'm 100% with Crusader. Frustrating as all hell. I think that part I like best is lumber processing... which isn't really guitar building anyways hahahaha. But for some reason I keep doing it. Chris

I just bought a "portable" greenhouse off Amazon to spray in. Yeah it was $80, but it's awesome. Goes together easy, take it apart for the future. Super handy as a ghetto spray booth to avoid particles in the wind (a must if ever doing a solid color IMO). Chris

I can do this. However, with out CAD files to match your EXACT inlays... I wouldn't guarantee the work at all. The reason is, inlays, especially in maple, you are working to tolerances of a few thousandths of an inch. So yes, this isn't a complicated shape, but without knowing the exact dimensions of your particular pyramid inlays... who knows if the routes will actually fit them, be too loose, etc. You'll need a matching DXF or DWG (or other CAD file) to match your inlays to have this done right. Where did you get the inlays? They may be able to help with more info. Chris

That bridge angle looks HUGE. Does it intonate? Chris

What kind of neck/blank? Is it already thicknessed for a bolt-on? Or is it a big block that you could plane down a bit and still have what you need left? Chris

Didn't read through, so apologies if any of this has already been said but: Wood glues are always your go to for wood-on-wood joints... but there are many types of wood glues! Wood glues will be more forgiving to mistakes. If you find a gap in your work after the glue has hardened, you can reheat, press in, re-clamp, and fix the issue. This will not be the case with CA. Given wood binding is sometimes more tricky than plastic at getting the shape JUST RIGHT, I'd say this is a plus! Fish glue (a wood glue) will have amazingly larger open time than, say, titebond. It is my #1 glue of choice for wood binding. It is amazing stuff. HIGH (read ridiculous) initial tack, slow dye time so long open time, and really long shelf life (so it doesn't matter if you ONLY use it for binding). Don't believe that BS about fish glue having a one-year shelf life. Go find some old stuff and test it... it's still fantastic. My $0.02, Chris

Maybe it's the tinting of the pic and lighting... but that looks like padauk to me. Description sounds like it too. Is it bright orange? Sawdust bright orange and get on everything? Chris

Wow... TOTALLY out there but also 100% works! Way to push the boundaries. Chris

Indeed I am a real boy! And have all my digits! hahaha Chris

I still have some of the Myka jigs available. There's a thread in the sales section if you search. Chris