PatientZero

That's actually a pretty good description of the idea. The use of the term "acoustic" in this sense is more of an appearance and vibe. Its going to nearly useless unplugged. The idea behind it is pretty much the same as the SST, 0 feedback, and lower string tension than a normal acoustic. I've given some thought to chambering the body to add a bit of warmth, but all the research I've done leaves me with the impression that the chambers need to be done in very precise locations, depths, shapes, etc, and I really have no idea how to determine all of that. I'm basically trying to come up with some unique ideas that would be fun to have in a guitar. This is either going to turn out well, and replace my Alvarez as a gigging instrument (I really hate having her out of the house, she's irreplaceable) or a big funny-looking number 2 pencil to sketch ideas for songs out. Having said that, I'm curious if the soundhole mic types of pickups (like the LR Baggs system) would pick up string vibration, or just soundboard vibration. It will definately have an undersaddle piezo, I'm just undecided on which one. Great suggestions so far, keep em coming!

I'm thinking I might have this in the wrong area, so, mods feel free to move it. Here's my plan, I'm going to build a solid body acoustic, very similar to a gibson Chet Atkins SST. the only things that are set in stone about this build are: Mohogany neck and body, pinless rosewood bridge, 24.75 scale, big fat frets. So the question is.... If you were building YOUR perfect solid acoustic, what else would you throw into this? It will be electric, so pick up ideas are welcome.

I seem to remember seeing this somewhere before, but I can't find it to save my life. Has anyone else seen these? Its basically a plug that is installed into the back of the trem cavity, and its threaded inside for machine screws. It allows you to use machine screws to adjust the trem claw, and prevents the screw from being pulled out of the guitar body due to over tensioned springs. Anyone know where I can find one of these?

Personally I can't convince myself that either of them would be much of an investment. Considering that you have a PC, for the price of either of those you could pick up a pretty decent software studio. Granted, not quite as portable, but then again, considering batteries and all that for the palm studio...

UPDATE: The pedal came in yesterday. Here's what I found when I opened the box: Original factory packaging. Price tag still on it. Protective film still on the LED panel. Factory power supply unopened. Warranty card still in the box. This thing is in PERFECT shape. If it was used at all, it was babied.

So, mixing a rum and coke in a burger king cup is bad?

SO, lets get this straight. They sold you a POS at $200(aus) off because of a tiny chip. When you got this home, you discovered that the lack of 2 frets threw the scale length WAY off. Some nimrod at the Korean factory forgot his medication and put the wrong neck on. Now, adding all this together... the shop's going to give you a UN nicked, perfectly good guitar at the same defective discount price... and you want me to feel sorry for you? I can't. You sir are now my hero.

I'm thinking about picking up a BEAT UP Squire Strat from a guy at work, and he wants me to make him an offer. I don't want to insult him or anything, so I'm trying to get an idea what this thing's worth. The body's laminate, full size, decent shape, but a few dings that are going to need to be filled. The neck is a one piece, no nut, frets are going to need to be replaced, somebody decided to draw flames on the fretboard, so it needs to be sanded and re-finished. Basically, I'm going to use the wood and hot-rod the hell out of it, just to see how much I can polish a turd. I was thinking $40 for the body and $20 for the neck. Does that sound fair?

I've searched here AND google, and can't find anything. I'm trying to find a source for rackspace enclosures. Not a rack, but the chassis that mounts to it. You know the black box that holds the guts of a Digitech effects processor.

So I just bid on this thing on a whim, and really wasn't expecting to win the auction. I saw the opening bid was $40 and hit the bid button. then I noticed the auction ended in 8 minutes. I'm the parent of a Zoom 3000s now. SO, has anyone ever used one of these? what can I expect? I guess that for 40 bones, just using it as a chromatic tuner would be cost effective, but what the hell. Thoughts anyone?

minwax makes a wood hardener (no, I'm not joking). you can get it at Home Depot. While I don't want to encourage the use of this substance, you're putting it on a pine body. Its not like you can ruin it. Worse case scenario -----a pine body smeared with wood hardener.

look in the fret scale calculator under "Free Information" at stewmac. They give you the distance from the nut to the post nearest to the high E. not sure if its going to work out with an edge type, but you're closer. At any rate, I THINK you measure to the saddle for the high E at mid adjustment.

For edge gluing like this, I use poly. Tends to form a nearly invisible glue line. Non gap filling, so make sure you're dead level.

Thanks maiden. I remember seeing a post recently where someone mentioned something about a problem with break angle when you recess a TOM bridge, and I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have any problems. I'm back on track again.

I searched for this one, but got nothing. I'm trying to find out the correct string break angle for a Tune o matic bridge. I'm trying to decide whether to recess both the bridge and stop tailpiece, or recess the bridge and string through. Leaning toward string through for sustain reasons, but still need to know the angle. Thanks in advance.