t1r12003

I made this with a maple burl bookmatched top. The top was glued together and then to the body just like a quilt top. I used superglue to fill all the holes and cracks. I just searched this site for the procedure. I finish sanded, then laquered the top. Filling the holes took a while since there was so many and some were deep, but it finished as smooth as a baby's behind.

Title says it all. Works great. Plenty of lead wire left. Had it in my RG550, but switched to a Breed. $45 shipped anywhere in the US. Inquire about extra shipping fee if you're outside the US. Thanks guys.

Look up this number on "the bay". 7380798367 Buy It Know is $35. Looks like good alder wood. Snatch it up.

It was misspelled, it's Afromosia, and I found a ton of info now on the web.

Anyone ever heard of it?

Has anyone ever heard of AFROMISA? I did a forum search and an internet search and I really couldn't find much on it. I don't know if it's misspelled. I think it's an African wood, but I don't know if it's a type of rosewood or teak or what. The real question is would it be suitable for building a guitar?

This is a Jackson DR7 7 string electric guitar. It looks like the Dinky Reverse. It has a red flame maple top with all flat silver hardware. Condition is 9 on a 10 scale with only a couple nicks. It is a strung through body design and a Tune O Matic style bridge. Sustain is awesome. Reverse headstock with sharkfin inlays. I had an Evolution in the bridge and it sounded great. I'm actually looking to get an Ibanez 7620 or 1527 7 string with a trem bridge, so if anyone is looking to trade, please PM or e-mail me. The guitar will be sold without pickups as I'm saving them for the Ibanez when I find it. All controls, pots, switches etc are included, just a guitar without pickups. I'm asking $250, even though only a year ago I paid over $300. Please PM or e-mail me with requests for some pictures and I'll send you high resolution shots of any angle you'd like. Thanks.

I'm looking for one of the older RG550 bodies, without the all access neck joint. Color really doesn't matter because I'm going to customize it anyway. Please PM or e-mail me if you got one. Thanks.

Everything I always heard from shop class in school was that a good glue joint was stronger than the actual wood itself. I'm going ahead with my original plan, and I will keep everyone in the loop as to how it works out. If it doesn't, I didn't loose out, I'll just have to proceed with cutting the entire center out anyway. Thanks again everyone for the great feedback!

Agreed. You dont look like youre using any templates. Im just hoping the neck fits in that pocket ok, its kind of rough. I wouldnt "clean it up" too much before you address how much room you have to work with. Without sounding like an ass, I also dont really understand the use of both spalted maple AND lacewood. Theyre just to different to be on the same guitar IMO. ← The neck fits perfectly in the pocket. I'm actually surprised with myself on that one. I don't use any templates at all, besides printing out a picture enlarged to actual size, it's all free hand routing, drilling, sanding etc. If the body shape looks a little off after the bevelling, not to worry, I'm sanding it all out making the edges smooth. It will all be rounded out. I love the lacewood combo with this top, but it's not for everyone I guess.

Thanks a lot you guys. I have a lot to look at. I'll mill it over for a few days before making any cuts.

Well, that's why I started this thread, to get feedback. If you have an alternative suggestion, I'd really like to hear it.

Yes that will all be smoothed out. Thanks for the concern. I am going to have to fill in a lot of spots on this maple with epoxy. Luckily, the biggest spot is where the neck humbucker will go, so I'll rout the two pickup cavities first before I start epoxy filling. Any suggestions with the expoxy? I think I've heard guys use a dropper or syringe. Does it darken the wood or prevent the oil or laquer from penetrating resulting in discoloration?

I was just confused between it originally being a neck through or set neck. Matt, I appreciate the concern to make sure I know what to do before I proceed. As far as the repair goes, I think I have it figured out. Here's where I'll make the two cuts. This way I'll be able to glue it on two sides and clamp it down in a few spots. I'll also have more than enough wood for the neck pocket as well as reshaping the left curve of the body going into the neck. What do you think?

The back countoured as well:

I contoured the front and back with a 45 degree angle router bit.

Here's the routed neck pocket. I'll be cleaning up the sides:

This shot of the back of the guitar at the neck pocket might show you why I have to cut away a lot of material. Again, this was years ago and I didn't know anything about building or repairing guitars, so I drilled three large holes through it thinking I could just screw a neck on it. Horrible, but the beginning of this hobby.

Thanks, yeah it must have been a set neck, but regardless, the thing is getting fixed. So, again, do you think that the original idea of cutting out a block and gluing (on three sides) the new piece in would work, or should I cut away all the material in this diagram and then clamp from the left and from the top?

Here's the block I'm using for the new neck pocket. Should I proceed with the cut shown above, or come in from the left side along the lower part of the pickup cavity and then up the right side as shown so I have a corner glue joint with 2 sides instead of sliding in the block from the top?

Here is a close up of the neck pocket with a little diagram on how I want to repair it. Basically, I'm going to cut this part out and glue a block of the same wood back in:

I picked up this Explorer over 10 years ago back in my home town. It was a custom made, korina neck through, built around 1977 I was told. Unfortunately, it had a bad fall from a guitar hook off a wall, and the headstock was completely broken. Not knowing anything about guitar repair or this site at all, I hacked the neck off at the body and thought I could just bolt something together. All I can say is it was hilarious, and I wish I had a picture of it now. So, to the repair in progress after building a couple of guitars and checking out a recent SG repair post: Here is the body:

SWEET! Glue dried, and I took the clamps off this morning and ran the router around the top. Next step is routing for the neck pocket, pickup cavities, and back control panel. Here's the full body:

Check out my auction for a project neck. Someone on this forum can use this I'm sure. Strat style, maple on maple, 21 fret, brand new quality, only $40. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

This morning I got up and glued the top to the body. I checked out every side where the lacewood meets the maple top and I have no gaps. I used two scrap pieces to brace the top down in case the warping would cause the top to be raised from the body in the middle. I should know when I rout the pickup cavities, but I'm confident it's fine. The warping was very slight. I have Labor Day (Monday) off work, so I'm going to run my router with a follower bearing around the body to have my final shape.