t1r12003

RG550 SOLD.

The other body looks like an RG, but it is not an Ibanez. I repainted it trying to make it look like a Vai swirl dipped guitar. I'm 90% sure it is basswood when I was working on it.

I'll also put up some pics tomorrow.

Hey, I've been following this thread. What's the status? Did you get finished up? Looks great!

Might I also refer you to the book "How to Make an Electric Guitar" by Melvin Hissock. That book combined with the great info here on the forum really helped me out. The book will tell you all the basic info you need to know, nut width, scale length, etc.

It's on an Ebay auction, but if you're really interested, I would entertain offers here and stop the auction early for my brothers.

Here's the Ebay # 7410650310

Here's one pic:

Seems to me that started LP blank is undersized --are you sure about the measurements?

It is smaller than regular size, but I measured it with a tape right before posting, 11.5" wide.

Nice finish! Care to post your bursting technique? It looks a lot better than a lot of similar bursts I've seen, and if you managed that without an airbrush, it's doubly impressive-- perhaps even tutorial-worthy?

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=6194

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...nother+sunburst

Here are 2 tutorials on the subject

I researched Myka's threads on staining. He's really helped out a lot.

Wow, the Korina Firebird body already got bid up to $100.

The Peavey T-60 project is really nice as well:

Yeah, the shape is slightly off there, but for only hand tools and no template I did my best.

The neck I did not make. I haven't gone down that road yet. It's a Strat style countoured back. I did cut the headstock to look more like an original EVH though with the 4x2 look. I'll try to add more pics later when I get it all put together after letting the laquer cure for a few weeks.

Thanks. You're totally right on about using too much of the tobacco. I started with that Colortone stain color from Stewmac, then sanded back, used amber next, sanded back, then finally yellow. Lastly, I went back over the edges with more tobacco to get a burst effect.

My technique is to take a very damp rag, take the bottle of stain, do not dilute it, dab some drops right on the wet rag and start rubbing. I just work the wet rag around until I see the stain evening out, and if it looks like I need some more, I get a few more drops on the rag and go some more. When I'm done, I take another fresh wet rag and rub the whole top some more to wipe off any excess stain.

I let it dry, then sanded back, and I should have sanded more after using the brown, then applied the amber like above.

The yellow I only used in the middle areas. I also applied a little more yellow after the bursting effect around the edges to make sure I had a nice contrast of color.

I should also note that this pic was taken with the top freshly stained and just wet, no laquer had been applied yet. I am in the process of laquering it now.

The pickups are Duncan Designed HB103's which were modelled after the JB bridge and Jazz neck. I got them both for $30, so I'm trying them out, if they aren't up to my standards, I'll swap them for the US made originals. It's not done yet, so I can't comment on the sound. If it's too bright, I'll try 250K pots, then see how she is.

Lastly, I am going to use a white Tone knob for volume instead of the pictured chrome one keeping to the orignal EVH philosophly that your volume knob acts as your tone.

I was trying to get a Tiger's Eye color, but only using brown, amber and yellow, this is what I got. This was also my first attempt at a binding.

I have these items listed on auction, but for members here, I will entertain early offers and end the auctions early if I like your offer.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZt1r12003QQhtZ-1

E-mail or PM me with an offer, or I wish you luck on winning the auction.

Peace!

How long is it? I've heard that bocote is good for a neck and it doesn't need a finish. I love the feel of raw wood necks.

It's a smaller 1 piece body blank about 12" wide and 18 1/2" long.

The maple cap on a Les Paul typically starts out at 1/2" to 3/4" thick before carving. True hollowbody archtops start with a top plate thickness of 1".

I think a bocote-topped chambered LP would be the cat's meow.

I may go with a PRS type shape, but as long as the wood combo with that thick of a starter top would sound ok, then it's a go.

I acquired a piece of bocote for a guitar. It's 1 inch thick. My original idea was to make a very thin bodied guitar, as I did some searching on the forum about this. I saw a couple that some guys made that were 1 1/16", and figured it's possible. However, bocote being a very hardwood, and only an inch thick, I didn't think the sound would be very good, very shrill if anything.

Now, I've considered using this piece as an arch top for a solidbodied, but chambered, guitar. I figured a lightweight mahogany back would be good.

My question is, is a 1 inch thick top too thick for an archtop guitar, especially being bocote, a very hardwood that would still seem to be too bright sounding?

Check out this piece. It looks like it's on fire. Please someone grab this, and post your project in the progress section. I would love to grab this, but I have way too many going right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPALTED-maple-5-16-set...1QQcmdZViewItem

Pleae re-read the second line above the 2 finished pics.

Explorer is done, strung up, plays great. The combo of the Bill Lawrence bridge and '59 neck is well balanced.

The only thing I had to sacrifice was making the arm rest area wing less of an angle or more narrow due to the piece of quilt maple I had not being quite wide enough. It's not that noticeable, but yet you can still tell a little.

The glare got a little pixilated due to shrinking the pic file size. The finish is awesome.

Stained the edges with a darker walnut. I may leave the RG edges unstained and just oiled.

So here's the RG just freshly sprayed. I also reposted the Explorer smaller (thanks Maiden) right below so you can compare within the same screen. Obviously the piece on the RG wasn't as nice, but you get what you pay for. I think it was only $15 before shipping whereas the other was $40.

Thanks guys. I got lucky with this bookmatched piece having such a great pattern to it. I just did another body last night, an RG, but the pattern isn't as nice. I'll get it sprayed and post it too so you can see the difference.

Sorry about the pic size guys. Thanks, Maiden for making the change. The final pic will be smaller.

Yeah, Deft is Lacquer spray. I have always brushed on in the past with thick layers, but this is so much easier to spray thin layers. I got a way more consistent finish that way.

The stop tail piece and bridge come off my busted Explorer (another post, decided not to salvage). I am using a push pull pot for pickup switching between the bridge or neck, and I prefer a chrome knob.

I didn't use any black before the blue, but what I found worked the best was to dab the wet rag with a few drops of straight Colortone liquid stain right from the bottle and rub it in the body. It dried and then I sanded back and repeated a couple of times until I got the layers I wanted. I wanted a blue as dark as possible. I also referred to Myka's posts on how he got his blue quilt look on his amazing guitar.

Those are the holes for the stop tailpiece. I don't have the bridge holes drilled yet.

Oh yeah, and it's a Tune O Matic style bridge.

Pickups are Bill Lawrence for the bridge and a Duncan '59 in the neck.

I just stained it last night with Colortone from Stew Mac, and spray laquered it this afternoon with Deft. I love quilt tops.

(pic size corrected)

SOLD

Yep, looks like a Mockingbird. Great so far! Should be impressive once stained and shined up. What color are you going with?