jnewman
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Everything posted by jnewman
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Rks Guitars... What Do You Think?
jnewman replied to toddler68's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
I kinda like 'em in terms of the way they look - but I wouldn't want to play one as my main guitar. -
First Project: Neck-through Stratocaster
jnewman replied to jnewman's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
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Good! That's an easy thing to forget to do, and then you've got a big problem .
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As long-winded as that argument was, Drak did actually say one thing with merit early on in the thread: do use wax paper between your glue board and your veneer. That might have gotten lost in all the crap that got slung around . Also, be careful not to get any glue on the outside surface while you're putting glue down - you'll inevitably get glue on your hands, and then you'll pick up the veneer, and then there'll be big ugly glue spots on it. Veneer's so thin you don't want to have to sand those sorts of things out, so it's best to just do your best not to accidentally get glue on the outside.
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This is entertaining... there's an empty space where all of Drak's posts are. Fortunately, I won't be missing anything .
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Whatever, bud. You need to chill out.
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Let's see. I'm conservative and neither particularly PC nor touchy-feely. I'm from Texas. I go to Yale. I scored 1590 on the SAT. I'm studying engineering. And I ALREADY KNOW HOW TO VENEER. I've used veneering in the past and just finished making a veneer laminate for a control cover. I don't need to use the search function to find out about it. I haven't started a single useless thread since I joined the forum. I just don't understand people who get off jumping new guys with questions - you didn't even give him the good old "stop asking stupid questions and use the search button" reply that at least makes some sense. If everyone who thinks you shouldn't be an a****** to people with stupid questions or questions that've been asked before is a touchy-feely PC whiney bleeding-heart liberal idiot, the world's going to crap a lot faster than I thought.
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You know what? It was Wes' idea, not the new guy's. You didn't give him any advice, you just laughed at him while he was trying to figure out what to do. Frankly, you're just being a jerk to a guy who's trying to learn. You want to make snide and sarcastice remarks at someone, go ahead and make them to me - I don't really care, and I've got enough experience to sort out good and bad advice for myself. At least Doc actually gave him some good ideas on how to do his veneering.
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I meant the flat bits that butt up directly against the neck blank - the part you're actually gluing to the neck blank. It looks like that vertical surface isn't flat where it will glue up, which'd give you a really thick glue line - which isn't very strong and isn't very pretty, and wouldn't fit at all with that great design .
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I was rereading my post a second ago, and I realized it could've come off like I was criticizing you, Wes... All of that was directed purely at Drak for going off on Chris. I've never tried contact adhesive or the 3M spray, so I'm not qualified to say anything about either's value.
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That's a really cool body shape! I think it's my favorite new design I've come across in a while. It looks like you've been doing good work, the only thing I'd check is that in some of your pictures it looks like the faces of the wings that will glue to the neck blank aren't really flat - which'll give you big, big problems when you try to glue it all together, so you may need to get out a hand plane or a power jointer. Keep us posted - if you just put pictures up in your blog, at least let us know when you update it!
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From what I understand, with "aniline dyes" (no promises on anything else) like transfast, transtint, etc., you should be fine with ANY finish as they are actual dyes that soak into the wood and all the solvent evaporates leaving just the color in the wood itself. If you get a pigment-based stain (as opposed to a dye), you're getting little bitty particles of color in a binder that's usually lacquer or varnish based that don't soak into the wood, they just sit in crevices in the wood in a very thin coat of varnish or lacquer - and those are NOT necessarily compatible with other finish types.
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I like Frank's lap steel... it's really slick and I've always had a soft spot for 'em.
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When I started building my neck I went from square to the right taper and profile with a surform - and I'd recommend that method to anyone getting started. It's fast enough that it doesn't kill you but it's slow enough you don't kill the neck if you slip or aren't paying as much attention as you should. You can just sit there with another finished neck and rough off spots until it feels right - it's not hard at all.
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I have a turntable from the early 70's that has a piece of film with a pattern etched into it that swings with the needle arm - it breaks off a bit of the audio signal, runs it to a LIGHT BULB, and puts it through the film. When a phototransistor on the other side of where the film swings reads down to a certain voltage, it stops the motor. It's pretty funny, but I doubt it'll be in any way helpful.
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It also completely eliminates the chance for noisy ground loops, which are really easy to wire in if you don't have a clear-cut idea of how your grounding scheme works. It's not compulsory, but it is cheap insurance. ← That's part of what I meant .
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First Project: Neck-through Stratocaster
jnewman replied to jnewman's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
For what it's worth, when I bought mine LMI had them SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than any other place I could find them. They're showing up as on backorder right now, but the price is $28.15. Stewmac is $39.36. I understand what you're saying about the recess, but I kind of like it . To each his own, I guess. -
Neck-through Design - Do You Taper Through Body?
jnewman replied to Cerb's topic in Put it to a vote
I voted for tapered to where it meets the body because I think for most bodies that's the best way - but there are some that just look great tapered through. -
The bridge (pretty much) needs to be grounded, but that doesn't have to be where all the grounds meet. As long as all the grounds *connect*, it doesn't matter where they do - it doesn't even have to be all at the same place. Having all the grounds meet at one spot is just a good way to make sure you have all the grounds done right, and pot cases are a popular ground point because they're metal and they're already there.